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Old 09-11-2010, 05:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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99 xc 700

Hello all, very new to all of this the forum and snowmobiling in general. Never actually been on a snowmobile before however i now have a 99 XC 700 sitting on my lawn. Before anyone says it, i know its not a snowmobile for a noobie like myself and i understand that. That being said, its a 99 XC 700 with 5076 hours on it. Starts up on first or second pull. This thing dumps out a LOT of smoke on start up and even at idle. Hit the gas and you cant even see in front of you. The machine sounds fine (very loud). Any manual i find on this is only 4 pages and doesn't tell me anything, whats the gas oil ratio to put in this thing 40:1? 50:1? I put 40:1 because thats what i saw a couple other sleds in this range had. Anything else I should be doing besides the obvious of bringing it to a polaris dealership because i havent a clue on it?
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Old 09-11-2010, 05:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You do not have to mix on that sled. It has an oil tank and injects it into the engine directly.

The smoke will clear as the engine gets warmer too.
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Old 09-11-2010, 06:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It's mileage, not hours...

You do not have to mix the fuel and oil, there is an injector. Just make sure your bottle is full of oil. Explains the huge amounts of smoke.

Where are you located?
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Old 09-11-2010, 06:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Your sled should have oil injection, unless the oil pump has been removed, there is no reason to mix oil in the gas. If you mixed 40:1 in the tank, the pump is also giving you oil, so your effective ratio will be around 20:1. That's a lot of oil!

Sleds will be very smoky on initial start-up, but that will normally lessen as the engine heats up. If you run the gas/oil you mixed through the engine, it won't be surprising if you oil foul the plugs. A rich fuel condition will also exist until it gets cold outside, which can also contribute to smoke.

Welcome to the forum! There's a lot of reading here for you so you can become familiar with how a sled works. Check out the stickys at the top of the engine/drivetrain part of the forum, then ask away when you have questions.
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Old 09-11-2010, 06:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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LOL that's hilarious, i think i will go outside with my head down low and start siphoning the gas out... Well, thank you all for the help and the greeting i will see you soon with my next dumb ass question. Thanks! and for the man who asked, im in Connecticut.
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Old 09-11-2010, 07:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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no need to drain the fuel, it will burn it out. just extra protection i suppose haha! welcome to the forum, that sled will be a handful!
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Old 09-11-2010, 09:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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welcome can we see a pic of the engine/pipe I'm woundering what kind o pipe is on it that makes it "very loud"
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-1998 POLARIS INDY ss 488 Power Madd hand guards,chrome power Madd windsheild,
2 inch risers,black KIMPEX Dullies ski's with blue loops,1.25 lug track with 96 pics and a black light cover
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Old 09-11-2010, 10:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Some of them earlier 6-700's were a bit louder. My old 99 was a bit louder than my new xc. A bit different tone to.
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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My uncles xc700 has a SLP pipe and can, sounds real good, not to loud, but has a different tone so you deffinantly can tell it aint stock
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rest of the fleet:
2003 polaris classic 340 3000 miles(FS)-2003 polaris indy xc 500 2200 miles(FS)-2000 polaris xc 700 7000 miles-2003 arctic cat zl 600 3200 miles-1999 arctic cat zl500 4500 milesSOLD
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Old 09-12-2010, 03:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Here is the muffler, looks stock to me but i don't have any idea. Also attached is a picture of the what looks like the oil assembly that had shoe lace and a zip tie around the oil line... scares me. Also attached is a picture of the entire machine, my work in progress. 2 things, what type of oil does this thing take and how will i know if this oil pump assembly is working? Also is there some sort of owners manual that could tell me all the basics somewhere? All the ones i find are only 4 pages and dont give anything i need to know.
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99 xc 700-muffler.jpg   99 xc 700-oilassembly.jpg   99 xc 700-machine.jpg  
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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That thing looks to be in very rough shape.
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:26 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Its really not that bad, had a cracked windshield so I took it off needs a right front ski assembly and a good cleaning. The entire track assembly is brand new, and the engine runs great as far as I can see. Needs some minor tweeking and im sure a good carb cleaning and it will be good to go.
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:33 PM   #13 (permalink)
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It looks like the belly pan looks like it is is ready to fall off, and the tip of the right ski looks broke. I wouldn't feel safe riding it the way it is.

how did you end up with the sled in the first place?
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Old 09-12-2010, 05:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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How does the belly pan look like its about to fall off?? Sled doesnt look all that bad....
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10/11 season: 1014 miles
My sled:
03 z440 sno pro w/ 3000 miles
-Fresh Top End
-Rejetted
-white handguards
-4 inch riser
-1.375 inch track




rest of the fleet:
2003 polaris classic 340 3000 miles(FS)-2003 polaris indy xc 500 2200 miles(FS)-2000 polaris xc 700 7000 miles-2003 arctic cat zl 600 3200 miles-1999 arctic cat zl500 4500 milesSOLD
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Old 09-12-2010, 05:52 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Both of the "Toe's" of the ski assembly were disconnected at the very tip for easier transportation (allowed the ski to go through the front of the trailer so i could abut the front of the engine to the front of the trailer.) Also like i said earlier it needs a new front right ski assembly. The 'Nose Pan' is missing a screw right where you see it coming down a bit, simple fix. My main concern with this machine was the engine, the track system and rear rack. The costly pieces. Engine being in nice working condition from what I can see, track and rear rack being new. All plastic pieces (which I believe you are referring to as 'very bad condition' can easily be replaced or scraped off another machine). However, being new to all of this I could be drastically wrong which is why I am having a Polaris dealer look over it before I put any kind of money into it.
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Old 09-12-2010, 05:54 PM   #16 (permalink)
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just a heads up, that small arm with the cable attached adjusts your oil mixture... and how much is pumped progressivly with more throttle... the mount is bent and so is the arm which the cable runs to... definately have changed some tension, and probably where it lines up on the engine which will in turn inject oil differently into the engine... just some food for thought....
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1998 Polaris XC600 (with a XCR sleeper hood on it)
2006 Polaris Indy 500
1969 Chevy C10 "69CRUZR"
-383 stroker 450 hp 479 ft lbs of torque

2006 Chevy Colorado -daily driver


----------------------------

New Project Truck, this one for my Pops!

1953 GMC 5 Window Shortbox Stepside

Drivetrain: 2006 5.3 Liter v8 with 4l60e from an 06 Silverado.

Full IFS front suspension kit w/rack and pinion steering, and 4 link rear from TCI Enterprises.
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Old 09-12-2010, 06:04 PM   #17 (permalink)
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It looks like to me that the brass fitting for the oil intake has fallen out of the aluminum oil pump body. They were a poor fit from the factory, just a little knurling on the brass is supposed to keep it tight. Then to keep the pump working, the person tried to use wire ties to keep the line in the pump. You may need a new oil pump, as the parts to attempt repair are not available individually. If you get a new pump, you will have to get a 3-line pump, instead of the more common 4-line pump. The common 4-line pump has one line to each end of the crankshaft to help lube the outside crank bearings and one line to each carb, where oil is metered at the carb to supply the fuel/oil mix. The 3-line pump has the crankshaft oil lines and one line that goes to the fuel pump, where the oil is mixed with the fuel. Polaris used that method in the sleds that have the Keihin carbs, they went to the 4-line pump when they went to Mikuni's. The pump will be spendy to replace.

Here's a link from another post in the engine/drivetrain part of the forum for a manual for a 96-98 polaris manual, it should contain a lot of useful info for your sled as well; they didn't have a lot of changes in the engine/drivetrain from 98-99.

http://uploading.com/files/RHZYQM06/...-1998.zip.html
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:20 PM   #18 (permalink)
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BC_Dan thanks, your post actually helped me a bunch. I'm not sure why the person didn't do this before but I simply bent the Oil pump arm back into position and cut the zip tie they were using to create more tension on the line. Works perfect. It looked perfectly straight when I was out there, but in this picture it looks like it can go just a hair more. The second picture is the oil line coming out of the pump assembly, it appears that little clamp you talked about is still there and they used a wire tie as a added security, I left it in place until I can think of something else to secure it better. My next question would be, now that this arm has moved back very close if not exactly where it should have been to begin with, is there a way I can measure the amount of oil it should be properly dispensing so I know I'm getting a pure 40:1 mixture?
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:30 PM   #19 (permalink)
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To put the pump to stock settings, there are two marks; one on the actuator arm, one on the pump body. Loosen the cable lock nuts and rotate the adjuster until the two marks are aligned. Some pumps had marks for both idle and at WOT, if that's the case, it's better to make sure the WOT one is accurate. Make sure to re-tighten the lock nuts on the cable when you are done aligning. If you don't, you can go exactly 4.5 miles until lack of oil will seize the engine. Trust me on this one!
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:34 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Took off the hood, need to replace the Hinge bracket in the front of the machine, I figured I would record a video on the iphone while i had it off. Sounds normal?

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