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post #21 of 50 (permalink) Old 05-04-2010, 06:53 PM
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Ok a few things to think about .....

When you turn the key the computer is supposed to wake from its battery saving sleep and the "ready" lamp is there to indicate the computer is activated and the sled is ready to start. The computer keeps itself powered and will continue to stay powered for a pre determined time after the engine is turned off by by activating and then finally
de-activating the self shut off relay . It would seem your sled is shutting off this sso relay feed even when the sled is running . Let's start with some wiring checks.......

Remove both blue relays and check that there is constant battery voltage to both red/y wires feeding the SSO relay and also both red/w wires to the fuel pump relay. Disconnect the small computer connector and make sure you also have battery voltage at the red/y wire which is located in the corner of the connector. Disconnect the large computer connector and make sure you have battery voltage on both the orange a nd the yellow black wires which are in the middle row of the large connector when you turn the key all the way to the start position.

Also check the black wire you were working with from the CDI box they are known to break inside the insulation usually within 6 inches of the cdi box . Open the harness if you need to to inspect this wire thouroughly.

Let me know if any of this is helpful or if you find any problems in these circuits.
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post #22 of 50 (permalink) Old 05-05-2010, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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I'll give it a check as soon as it stops raining and snowing here ! Thanks.
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post #23 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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I'm an IDIOT. So I jumpered the diagnostic port like I was supposed to and DID get codes. I have a 33 , cdi output , a 13 , intake air temp sensor and a 14 , water temp sensor. I checked resistance across the water temp sensor and got 3.1k. I had tried a new cdi box before with the same results. Whats wrong , where do I start ? Yes , its the end of June , but I want to get it fixed.
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post #24 of 50 (permalink) Old 06-20-2010, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Cleared codes and ran it. Ran for 7 minutes and died. Checked codes and only got 33 , cdi output. Help !??
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post #25 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 12:19 PM
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have you looked at the wires that lead into the efi box make sure all them are tight and none of them are lose i had this happen to my seld that was like this let me know if this helps
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post #26 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 07:04 PM
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Battery load tested fine. Sitting , its just over 12.2v , running at 3100rpm its at 14.2v. Still shuts down , its driving me nuts. Its almost like its on a timer ! Same run time each time. What am I missing ? Could a ground cause it ? What route does the power take to the ecm ?
Load test it, as in having amperage drawn off it. Bring it down to a local chain parts store and have them load test it for you. Keep in mind it will need to be charged with a charger after the load test. Reading voltage off a battery and it's ability to carry a load are two different horses. Hope it helps.
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post #27 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-31-2010, 09:56 PM Thread Starter
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Changed the lightning coil and still only runs for 6-8 mins. Ready light goes out and sled dies. 33 cdi output code ?
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post #28 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 09:55 AM
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Contact Mrholmquist, he has the lowdown on fixing these issues.

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post #29 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks , but I've tried several times and no reply .
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post #30 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 01:06 PM
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post #31 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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I have tried a different CDI pack and got the same results. My thought is somehow the rpm signal to the CDI gets interupted and shuts computer and fuel pump down. What part of the stator assembly does the black coil wire come from ? I just had it apart and didn't look because I was FIGHTIN with other stuff. ( and my 3yr old was helping !)
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post #32 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 09:32 PM
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I had an A.C. 580 EFi with similar probs. It was a weird short in the harness for the ignition in a place I couldn't see. I do know your pain! It sucks! Good luck and I hope it isn't major!
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post #33 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-01-2010, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Its F R U S T R A T I N G !! It started before last Xmas when it hit 40 below. Battery froze and somehow took out the computer. New battery and used ecm and it started immediately. But ran for 8 minutes before dying. I've replaced relays , harness , tried a different ecm and cdi , dropping resistor ,fusible link and now lightning coil. And thats where I sit.
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post #34 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-03-2010, 08:43 AM
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Its F R U S T R A T I N G !! It started before last Xmas when it hit 40 below. Battery froze and somehow took out the computer. New battery and used ecm and it started immediately. But ran for 8 minutes before dying. I've replaced relays , harness , tried a different ecm and cdi , dropping resistor ,fusible link and now lightning coil. And thats where I sit.

Have you done a really good inspection of the wiring harness? Use a multimeter to ohm out wiring you can't see. Also, remember one single strand of wire will ohm correctly but won't carry any current = no workie.

Do you have a manual? If not, get one. www.midwestmanuals.com He'll send it to your e-mail immediately after you pay and then a few days later you'll get a hard copy on disk. The cost is like $10.00.
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post #35 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-04-2010, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Put on a new/used main harness and had the same problems.
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post #36 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 06:22 PM
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Can you please tell us what type of sparkplugs you are using? I had a similar problem that was caused by non resistor plugs that interfered with the ECU.
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post #37 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 09:48 AM
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Should be NGK BR9ES or equivalent in that.

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post #38 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 10:45 AM
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I think it should be BR8ES, but I can be all wrong?
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post #39 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-09-2010, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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Plugs were put in new when problems started. They are NGK R BR8ES.
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post #40 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-10-2010, 07:25 AM
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If you have changed the CDI, ECU and relays the only thing I can come up with is to check that you have proper grounding. Check below in front of the motor there is a grounding point where several cables meet.
Regarding the error code 33 you have. I have that error code to but can not clear it from memory so it could be an old error, my machine runs OK despite this error.
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