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Old 10-31-2009, 11:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
Crazy k
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Smile Performance mods made on my 96 xlt

I just bought this sled 96 xlt 600 10" suspension with psi mod blaster pipes and 38 mm carbs. The guy I bought it off said the oil injector was turned up a bit aswell. Now I've done some research on hopping this engine up and have some concerns mostly with the oil pump and crank bearings. This sled runs smooth and sounds just freakin sick! But I don't want to be left 10 miles from my acreage in -40 below weather and limited cell phone reception. Does anyone have a recomendation on what to watch for. I think i might take it in and at least make sure it's tuned properly.
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
Polaris87
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The only thing is to make sure the oiler is turned up pretty good. I also have 38mm carbs on my 95 XLT and they never failed last winter. My crank blew though. Slapped in a second hand one and I drilled out the oil journal on the PTO side of the crank case. Some guys say that pipes on an xlt are a def no no and some have 8000 miles with pipes. SLP seem to be the best out there for reliabilty.. Theres not too much you can do though. If it's going to blow, it will blow. I drove mine up the ice 3 kms fine. Turned around and it went 10 feet and died. Locked up solid.....Third bearing in on the crank locked up...
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:37 AM   #3 (permalink)
triple threat
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Is it difficult to drill out the oil hole on the xlt mine is stock with 8500miles with no rebuild and still has 120 psi on each cyl.
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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i wouldn't worry about it if you've got 8500 miles with no rebuild. That must have been a good engine you've got there...Wait until it blows and then drill the hole out...You need to split the base to make sure when you drill the hole you can get the aluminum filings out. If you drill it out with the cases still together you risk blowing the motor up again because of the filings in the crank....not good..
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Old 11-01-2009, 12:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I've decided to remove the pipes and put the stock exhuast back on. Will the 38 mm carbs still be ok on there?I don't want to remove the pipes but I've heard to many horror storys and would assume the guy I bought the sled off didn't do the block when he put the pipes on, I just want a reliable sled to ride. Also I've found the online manuals but can't load them with my iPhone do you guys have pictures of your crank rebuild or how you went about it and where the ports are that need to be opened up more for better lubercation. Thanks muchly
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The XLT came with 34mm carbs, the XLT SP came with 38mm carbs. If you go back to stock, you could use the XLT SP specs for jetting and you should be safe. You will also need to re-clutch, again, the XLT SP specs should give you a pretty good starting point.

When the triple pipes are installed, the carbs are jetted richer to give more fuel because of the increased airflow of the pipes. The designed RPM also goes up, so the primary spring and weights are usually changed to get the RPM necessary to get to the RPM where the power is. With additional HP, the engine can pull harder, so a different helix/spring in the secondary is often used.

The stock pipe will substantially reduce the HP. The stock parts in the clutches will be necessary along with the stock pipe to reduce the max RPM and to accomodate the lesser pull of the engine. If you leave the triple parts in, you may be pretty disappointed in the performance with the stock pipe...

I do think the stock pipe/clutching is longer lasting. Spinning that triple at 9600 RPM seems like a good way to wear it out a LOT quicker... sure is fun to have more power, though
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Old 11-01-2009, 05:43 PM   #7 (permalink)
Crazy k
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Thanks for the info I've got the stock parts to swap it!Hopefully get a couple more seasons out of er
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Old 11-01-2009, 06:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
Polaris87
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Stock settings as far as I know as as follows:

Primary clutch:

Gold spring
10M or 10M5 weights

Secondary Clutch:
Red spring
Not sure about the helix

I have 38 mm carbs on mine with stock exhaust and it works fine. Seemed to bog at wide open throttle but after taking the weights out this summer and finding them being a lighter weight than stock I blamed it on the weights. 10MB's instead of 10M's. 2 grams lighter... I'm not sure what main jet the
38mm's have though. Can't help there. All i know is I have them on mine and they work.

Also I wouldnt mind having a set of pipes for mine if you plan on selling them...PM if you'll let them go.
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Old 11-01-2009, 06:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
Crazy k
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Thanks for the info and I'll let you know when I'm going to sell them polaris87.
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