What problem should I look for in my 99 Indy Sport? - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

jbsengineer · 09-22-2009, 07:30 PM

I ready the sticky but I'm not sure what specifically I should look for in the problem I have with my 99 Sport. I am getting back into snowmobiling and bought a 05 600 XC SP and a 440 Sport for my wife. The 440 runs solid when it's running...no stutter, stagger etc. When the engine is just a little warm it will crank right over with one pull.

However, sometimes cold the first couple pulls it gags a little. Then nothing.... i tried with the choke on/half/off. nothing. after about 30 pulls and a lot of time inspecting the plugs in between it started gagged again and i was able to get it started. once it is running it is completely solid, no stuttering staggering etc. ran at some high rpm's with the track suspended and it's fantastic.

What could I look for as the problem? When I inspected the plugs in between they had a tiny bit of gas/oil on them.

Thanks!

jbsengineer · 09-22-2009, 07:35 PM

Forgot to mention it's a 99 with only 400 miles on it. The compression in the cylinders is 125 on each. Thanks.

**RJ Gleason** · 09-23-2009, 01:12 AM

Hard starting usually is either low compression or dirty carbs.
Since the compression is good, I'd clean the carbs, paying particular attention to the pilot jet and enricher (choke) circuit.

jbsengineer · 10-19-2009, 04:00 PM

So I have cleaned the carbs thoroughly. I have to say the carbs were pretty clean.

So after I got it running I also lowered the idle (was way to high). I gave it a ride around the yard and she wasn't as peppy with the lower idle. So I adjusted the pilot air jet screw about 1/4 turn out and it helped. It's again very snappy and responsive and idles nicely. The air screw now is a total 1 and 1/4 turns out from lightly seated.

However, my problem still exists. After a couple day of sitting I will pull start it without choke and it will kick a little and shutoff. Once that happens I have to pull what seems like a billion times. I usually am forced to switch out the plugs which are moist if not wet with gas. Finally, after maybe 30 pulls or so with different plugs I will sometime get it to catch a little. Once I hear it catch I can get it to start within another 10 or so pulls by giving it some throttle helps. Each pull it will gag a little more and toying with giving it throttle on the pull I usually can find a sweet spot. Once I get it to catch I can give it some more throttle and it'll clean itself out and idle. I should also mention I am getting great spark.

Is it flooding instantly or something? I've read a few threads about leaking carbs or fuel diaphragm. Would this be what I'm looking at? How could I diagnose those 2 issues?

Thanks for any help!

mrholmquist · 10-19-2009, 06:03 PM

I know you are sort of thinking it is flooding but is it really? you state that it starts fine warm? Seems odd, it never floods warm?
It occurs to me that it may not be getting enough enrichment to start cold. Normally when an engine floods the plugs will be soaking wet not just moist as you stated above.
I think I'd make sure the choke cables were adjusted properly. Make sure there is not excessive slack in either cable and they lift the plungers evenly. Actually while you are at it you should also make sure the carbs are in sync also. This will help your idle stability and throttle response. As for the needle and seats and the fuel pump diaphragm they are easily tested using a mighty vac tool capable of creating pressure as well as vaccuum. you dont even need to dissassemble the carbs to test. Remove the carbs from the engine and invert them. Using the tool apply aprox 5 psi to the fuel inlet fiitting, if the pressure will not hold for 1 minute the needle and seats are defective and should be replaced. As for the fuel pump disconnect the pulse line which goes to the engine block and apply 5 psi. The pressure should not bleed off if the diaphragm is sound. There is a copy of the Polaris 96-98 shop manual floating around in PDF form for download. It used to be available on the site RJ has in the sticky at the top of this forum. For some reason it seems to have been deleted from that site.
The stuff I talked about here is explained in detail in that manual. I would suggest you
do a web search and hunt a copy down and download it. I know your sled is a 99 but the information should still be useful to you especially the testing and choke/throttle sync procedures. Good general information.

jbsengineer · 10-19-2009, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrholmquist

I know you are sort of thinking it is flooding but is it really? you state that it starts fine warm? Seems odd, it never floods warm?
It occurs to me that it may not be getting enough enrichment to start cold. Normally when an engine floods the plugs will be soaking wet not just moist as you stated above.
I think I'd make sure the choke cables were adjusted properly. Make sure there is not excessive slack in either cable and they lift the plungers evenly. Actually while you are at it you should also make sure the carbs are in sync also. This will help your idle stability and throttle response. As for the needle and seats and the fuel pump diaphragm they are easily tested using a mighty vac tool capable of creating pressure as well as vaccuum. you dont even need to dissassemble the carbs to test. Remove the carbs from the engine and invert them. Using the tool apply aprox 5 psi to the fuel inlet fiitting, if the pressure will not hold for 1 minute the needle and seats are defective and should be replaced. As for the fuel pump disconnect the pulse line which goes to the engine block and apply 5 psi. The pressure should not bleed off if the diaphragm is sound. There is a copy of the Polaris 96-98 shop manual floating around in PDF form for download. It used to be available on the site RJ has in the sticky at the top of this forum. For some reason it seems to have been deleted from that site.
The stuff I talked about here is explained in detail in that manual. I would suggest you
do a web search and hunt a copy down and download it. I know your sled is a 99 but the information should still be useful to you especially the testing and choke/throttle sync procedures. Good general information.

Great post. Thanks for all the info. My theory has been that as the sled sits longer it floods. Which holds true since I've gotten the sled. The longer it sits the harder it is to start. The engine will start great cold but only if its a day after its been warm. The plug would be above moist but not soaking wet. As soon as I swap them out I usually can get some type of gag from the engine.

Do you have a link or photo of the mighty vac? I'm definitely going to get one.

Again thanks for the informative post. I've seen that manual as well and might have it in a saved bookmark somewhere.

mrholmquist · 10-19-2009, 07:34 PM

here is one on ebay ....item # 190341922984

Make sure you get one which has a pressure port and a vaccuum port. some of them only have a vaccuum port.

jbsengineer · 11-07-2009, 01:17 PM

Ok today I decided to check the carbs and fuel pump. I noticed a little gas droplet underneath the sled. I searched and found that there is a tiny bit of gas/oil leaking from the crankshaft seal. What does this mean? Is the fuel pump leaking gas into the engine and caused this?

What would it take to fix this leak?

Polaris87 · 11-07-2009, 06:58 PM

Id say the crank seals are dried up and are leaking...When its running spray starting fluid in back of the clutch. If the motor revs up, that crank seal is gone and needs to be replaced. Not a big job but you'll need a puller to get the clutch off to replace it.

jbsengineer · 11-07-2009, 08:59 PM

Took the screws out of the front of the crankcase and ton of fuel came pooring out. Did the 5 PSI check on the fuel pump pulse line, it held. Did the 5 PSI check on both carbs, both leaked. One was a little worse than the other.

So it looks as though I need a needle and seat. Suggestions on places to order them?

**RJ Gleason** · 11-08-2009, 11:11 AM

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