cyclestart

Hi all. I have replaced the voltage regulator and still blowing bulbs. How can I check rectifier? Battery stays charged and no problems starting or running. Just can't see at night. Would like to fix it before storing it.
Thanks

wewhitt

I can give advice on this -- I hope it helps.

A rectifier is a device that converts Alternating Voltage (example - house voltage) to Direct Voltage (example - battery voltage). In the engineering world we talk in current .. so AC is Alternating Current and DC is Direct Current. In my field we use Silcone based rectifiers to change AC voltage to DC voltage for controls in circuit boards and Pre and Post stage amplifiers. Overall -- the check is always the same -- even if the rectifier is used for a starter motor or battery regulation.

1. Positive rectifier. With the ohmmeter on the ohms times one scale, take a reading between the positive terminal and the auxiliary terminal. Now, reverse the leads on the same two terminals. One reading should be very high (no meter deflection or in the M(meg) ohms) and the other low. An abnormal reading indicates that the rectifiers are bad.
2. Negative rectifier. The negative rectifier assembly is checked in the same manner as the positive assembly. The only difference is that this time, forward and reverse readings are taken between the auxiliary and the negative terminals.

If this is not cut and dry ... and you just aren't sure -- then checking it with voltage can be done. NOW BE CAREFUL -- you don't want to be doing the funky chicken -- locked up on some crazy voltage. Check the input voltage of the rectifier ... it should be a AC voltage -- this is important for your multimeter settings to be in the accurate position for a proper reading. On the output of the rectifier ... you should see a drop of about 0 - 14 volts in DC voltage.

For example -- I have an AC voltage of 100 VAC going into the rectifier ... I should see the exact same coming out in DC voltage, or down to 85 VDC. I would say in this example if I had 85 VDC coming out or less ... its a bad rectifier. In theory you want the same amount going out .. thats coming into the rectifier. That doesn't always happen, but a degregation of 15% or higher is a bad rectifier. If it is allowing a straight bypass of AC voltage -- then the rectifier is definatly shot. This is rare, but can happen as the Diodes inside fail shorted instead of open. SO be sure that you use the multimeter settings correctly to determine what is actually there ... AC or DC. If the diodes are shorted then during your Ohm check they will have a low reading in both directions ... and that is bad!!

If you have replaced the rectifier and this is still blowing light bulbs ... you may have a short that is in parallel to the rectifier. This will cause the AC voltage to directly bypass the rectifier and blow your lights.

I would take the rectifier out of circuit -- OHM check it documenting the readings -- place it back in circuit and take readings again. If there appears to be a direct short (very low OHM value) with the rectifier in circuit ... I would look for some other device, wire, standing water, something that is causing a direct short to AC voltage.

AC bleed through may be the cause since the Light Bulbs are probably ... DC light bulbs. If you hit a DC light bulb with a AC voltage ... it might strobe for a bit then give up and burn out.

I hope this makes sense ... I'm the rookie snowmobile rider that almost killed himself on King Mountain in Oregon here trying to get to my broadcast tower, for the T.V. station on a RMK 900. I posted just under this one.

I hope this helps!!

Bill

wewhitt

I was thinking too ... that if you placed a multimeter on the wires going to the light socket. This should tell you if you have the proper voltage to the light itself. I would be courious to see what that was. On the light bulb there is usually a marking as to the proper current and voltage that its suppose to operate at, or its in the tech manual of the equipment. You can do this check with the old light in place. Just to give you an idea of what might be going on.

RJ Gleason

Usually, if the regulator/rectifier is in good order, the problem points to a ground problem.
However, I would also test the output of the unit to be sure that is is not exceeding 12.5 vdc as this will also cause the constant popping of bulbs.

Also, check all the other bulbs in the sled, especially the tail light. If that is also out, you will have too much voltage at the headlight as well.

__________________
Old Cat Rider


w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch


80 PANTERA 500 F/C w/ Comet 102 clutch

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Trail Boss; Dryden to Summerhill trail.
http://www.dcdrifters.net/

Senior Deacon; F&AM Lodge# 472

cyclestart

I am getting a minimum of 24 volts at all the lights when idling. Reving the engine it climbs higher up to 60 volts when you give the throttle a good shot. Going to try and check the rectifier. I've added ground wires from the regulator mounting bolts to engine, frame and negative battery terminals previously with no difference. All the bulbs have blown, head, tail, gauges. When running the gas gauge needle goes back and forth from full to empty.
Thanks for the help so far

RJ Gleason

You should only have 12.5 volts at any of the lights, the regulator/rectifier is not working.

__________________
Old Cat Rider


w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch


80 PANTERA 500 F/C w/ Comet 102 clutch

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Trail Boss; Dryden to Summerhill trail.
http://www.dcdrifters.net/

Senior Deacon; F&AM Lodge# 472

wewhitt

Sounds like you have the full charge voltage on the Line for sure ... I agree with Old cat rider. You may want to do a double check with the schematic on the proper locations of wires as well. If perhaps something was hooked to your Lamp circuit that should not have been may be an issue. Most likely you have a severe regulator/rectifier fault. Since the rectifier/regulator is the isolation from the rest of the bike ... charging the battery, starting it, normal operation ... to the light circuit, I would definatly replace this first. As a side note ... when you do replace the regulator / rectifier ... before you put in any new lights CHECK voltage at the light socket. Also, since gauges are normally expensive ... disconnect any power to your gauge circuits to prevent damage while troubleshooting this fault. When you said your needle was slamming back and forth ... I cringed ... Bad thing!

cyclestart

I've recently replaced the regulator, would running with a faulty rectifier damage the new regulator? I have ordered a new rectifier and wonder whether to get regulator as well but not keen on spending the $90. again if its not necessary.

RJ Gleason

The only gauge that runs on unfiltered current is the Tachometer. Everything else has to go through the regulator/rectifier. (regulator/rectifier is the same thing in this usage)
If you are getting any reading higher than 14vdc anywhere on the light circuits, you have a faulty regulator.

__________________
Old Cat Rider


w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch


80 PANTERA 500 F/C w/ Comet 102 clutch

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Trail Boss; Dryden to Summerhill trail.
http://www.dcdrifters.net/

Senior Deacon; F&AM Lodge# 472

wewhitt

Do you have a Battery on your sled?

I don’t think so, but hey I learn something everyday!

Because in definition … and it’s been a little bit … a regulator maintains a percentage of voltage (10 to 15%) higher than a battery voltage in order to maintain a constant voltage under load. For example … on my equipment here a t work, I have regulators that put a 13.5 VDC voltage across my batteries when my backup generators are on. With the equipment running this 13.5 VDC charge across the battery allows a “Trickle Charge” to the battery and helps maintain a 12 VDC output voltage while the unit is under load.

To check a regulator is real easy. Usually you hook a volt meter to the battery leads on your battery. The battery voltage should be around 12.5 or so volts DC. You do this in order to determine if the battery is good or not. Fire up the equipment and the voltage should jump up and maintain a constant output voltage of 13.5 VDC or so. About a 10 to 15% increase. That way if you have multiple devices running off of 12VDC output voltage … it will not allow the 12VDC battery to fall under 12VDC … and keeps everything running smooth.

A rectifier is changing AC voltage to DC voltage and is allowing a “Generator” output to be stabilized and converted. That way you can run DC equipment with the rectifier’s output voltage. Usually 10 to 15% higher than the circuit is required to run at. That way when you have multiple devices running off of the same output voltage (12 VDC)… the rectifier will be able to maintain this voltage by not falling under the required voltage (12VDC) when under load. That’s why RJ was saying if you had more than one light out … this will cause a jump in voltage (remember – rectifier is outputting 10 to 15% higher to handle multiple loads) the light bulbs are the “Load” in this example. If you eliminate your loads the voltage will jump up causing your headlight to blow out.

A regulator and a rectifier can be used in definition of each other and they both are used in DC applications. I think the rectifier is the proper fix from the previous posts. It sounded like that this thing has failed miserably. Not allowing isolation for your DC circuits, causing a huge spike in output voltage, and preventing isolation from the rest of the machine.

In terms of terminology we may be pulling hairs. I would agree with RJ’s previous post, since he is more familiar with this machine, and your fault does relate to some faults I’ve seen on other machines … other than snowmobiles. I would think that replacing this rectifier is a good move and I would be shocked if it didn’t fix your problem.

I am curious on what you replaced?

I think a more specific explanation of where in the bike you replaced this “regulator” may be best. I think if you posted a schematic somehow, we could help further. It may be more of a help for the guys who know these machines inside and out … where exactly you are at in your machine.

Pictures are always good to.

cyclestart

I've ordered one from closest dealer and have been waiting 3 weeks now. His response was Polaris is shutting down the Winipeg distribution center. All parts will now be shipped from Wisconsin and they are having a few problems ironing out the bugs. Is there another reliable place to get parts from? May end up putting it away as is for now.

RJ Gleason

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__________________
Old Cat Rider


w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch


80 PANTERA 500 F/C w/ Comet 102 clutch

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Trail Boss; Dryden to Summerhill trail.
http://www.dcdrifters.net/

Senior Deacon; F&AM Lodge# 472

cyclestart

Thanks for all the help. I've put in a new regulator again and problem is gone. Replaced a couple of lights, reved engine and bulbs stayed intact and no spikes in voltage. Replaced the rest and everything seems good. Is it possible to replace the red indicator lights for heated thumb and hand grips?