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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-25-2007, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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Question Parts for 1997 Polaris 600 XLT Triple/Questions on flushing fluids

Like prior posts, my brother just picked up a new sled 1997 Polaris 600 XLT Triple and he wanted me to look around so I'm going to make a list here for myself and if anyone can find the cheapest deal on the internet dealer let me know (Part number if possible)


1. Wheels (or whatever their called now-missing one, bolt fell off another one-probably best to buy all new ones)

2. 2 new belts (probably get them from the same place I got mine)

3. Whatever is needed to get the light working for the speedo-I think its just the bulb-the tac lights up just fine

*4. The correct oil, and chain case oil

*5. The correct coolant fluid

6. New plugs

7. New switch for hand warmer-kind of rusty so not sure if its the wiring or the switch

*8. Oil filter

9. Owners/Repair manual

10. New track next year, side of it shows a little wear from where it looks like it rubbed up against something but nothing major

The ignition isn't hooked up-basically hot wired because when the sled got backed into, he put a new ignition on but it kept falling out because whatever. Not a big deal


A 97' Polaris XLT 600 isn't hard to get parts for is it?


*How hard is it to flush all the fluids? The Chain case had some gunk in it so it looks like time to change it. Would like to flush the oil, chain case, and coolant since we don't know when the last time anything was done.

On the chain case, where do you flush it? I can't find the drain plug on mine either. Its on the bottom I assume so how do you get to it. Same thing for coolant. How and where do you flush it. What exactly do I need for it?


Thanks for the help and time



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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-25-2007, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
1. Wheels (or whatever their called now-missing one, bolt fell off another one-probably best to buy all new ones)
-Unless they wobble or don't spin freely, don't replace them. Waste of money. Just tighten the bolt down.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
2. 2 new belts (probably get them from the same place I got mine)
-Check them for glazing on the sides.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
3. Whatever is needed to get the light working for the speedo-I think its just the bulb-the tac lights up just fine
-The bulb shouldn't be too expensive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
*4. The correct oil, and chain case oil
-Correct oil is any non-castor two-stroke oil. Chain case oil is a case for debate, I have used everything from gear oil to chain case liquid to 50 weight motor oil successfully.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
*5. The correct coolant fluid
- Coolant premixed 60/40 (60 parts coolant, 40 parts water) is good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
6. New plugs
-BR8ES is probably the one for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
7. New switch for hand warmer-kind of rusty so not sure if its the wiring or the switch
-Any old 3 position toggle switch will work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
*8. Oil filter
-Not necessary, but go ahead.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
9. Owners/Repair manual
-Look for a Haynes or Clymer manual. OEM manuals are 80-100 dollars.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
10. New track next year, side of it shows a little wear from where it looks like it rubbed up against something but nothing major
-Unless there's lots of cords showing and lots of paddles ripped off, or severe cracking on the track, you don't need a new one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
The ignition isn't hooked up-basically hot wired because when the sled got backed into, he put a new ignition on but it kept falling out because whatever. Not a big deal
-Then plug it back in

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
A 97' Polaris XLT 600 isn't hard to get parts for is it?
-Nope. They're everywhere over here in Nome.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
*How hard is it to flush all the fluids? The Chain case had some gunk in it so it looks like time to change it. Would like to flush the oil, chain case, and coolant since we don't know when the last time anything was done.
-Coolant will be slightly messy but easy. You don't really need to flush the oil, just run the old oil out of it and start using the new stuff. Chain case oil is changed by pulling off the case cover, letting the old crap spill out (dumb design), cleaning the case and stuff with solvent, then adding new oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PolarisHockey90
On the chain case, where do you flush it? I can't find the drain plug on mine either. Its on the bottom I assume so how do you get to it. Same thing for coolant. How and where do you flush it. What exactly do I need for it?
-Explained above.

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Originally Posted by RedRider_AK
If any of my friends heard me say that, they'd call me Gramps or something
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Originally Posted by IndianRvrShiver
That line should be in your sig!!
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-25-2007, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RedRider_AK
-Unless they wobble or don't spin freely, don't replace them. Waste of money. Just tighten the bolt down.



-Check them for glazing on the sides.



-The bulb shouldn't be too expensive.



-Correct oil is any non-castor two-stroke oil. Chain case oil is a case for debate, I have used everything from gear oil to chain case liquid to 50 weight motor oil successfully.



- Coolant premixed 60/40 (60 parts coolant, 40 parts water) is good.



-BR8ES is probably the one for you.



-Any old 3 position toggle switch will work.



-Not necessary, but go ahead.



-Look for a Haynes or Clymer manual. OEM manuals are 80-100 dollars.



-Unless there's lots of cords showing and lots of paddles ripped off, or severe cracking on the track, you don't need a new one.



-Then plug it back in



-Nope. They're everywhere over here in Nome.



-Coolant will be slightly messy but easy. You don't really need to flush the oil, just run the old oil out of it and start using the new stuff. Chain case oil is changed by pulling off the case cover, letting the old crap spill out (dumb design), cleaning the case and stuff with solvent, then adding new oil.



-Explained above.
Awesome thank you very much on this

Check your PM have a few extra ?'s



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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-27-2007, 02:00 AM
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to chage the coolent park the sled on a hill "ie tilt trailor" and pull one of the hoses of the back heat exchanger pull the plugs and pull it over a few times to get the water pump moving keep pulling till there pretty well no more coming out! after that put it on level ground put the hose back on and get coolent same shit in your car and mix it 50/50 50% water 50% coolent you can even buy premixed coolent now for an extra $1 or 2 then fill it through your coolent filler w/e u wanna call it and fill it to the top same thing pull it over the coolent will go down and keep adding till it stops going down then go for a little ride around the yard and every 10min or so add some more coolent till it will accept no more hope this is clear im half asleep right now lol



o btw use the same kind of oil the owner was useing before different oils burn different ways and w/e the motor was broken in on is what you should stick with

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