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95 polaris XLT Indy 600 extr-12 Clutch

11K views 49 replies 7 participants last post by  Cactus92 
#1 ·
New guy here, so with that in mind, I have a question. just bought a used 95 Polaris XLT Indy 600 with 4171 miles on it. my question is how to adjust the primary clutch. it will engage the belt at around 6k rpm. I think that's a little bit high but ive only rented sleds prior to buying this one. it has the blue spring on it which I need to change over to the gold one since im not over 6000 above sea level. ive looked all over the web trying to find info or a video on how to do the adjustment but haven't found for yet.

any help is much appreciated.
 
#2 ·
If that is a 95 with xtra-12 then it must be an XLT Special. Clutch adjustment is done by clutch spring and clutch weights. Stock for that machine would be gold spring with 10M weights. Stock engagement should be around 4200 to 4500. Check clutch for smooth movement in and out to be sure moveable sheave bushing is ok. Sometimes a good cleaning is all that is required.
 
#4 ·
well the clutch is clean and moves freely just need to get some dry-lube on it. but the clutch plate on the primary is too far towards the motor. secondary and primary aren't any way close to being in line. i'd say 1" off or so. Can the back plate be shimmed out to get into alignment with the secondary clutch?
 
#11 ·
To do a quick check on primary offset, take a straight edge and put it on the back of the primary so that you can measure the distance to the back of the secondary. It should be 5/8" (1" with electric start).

The shims on the bolt are not the same size as shims on the jackshaft behind the secondary. If you need to move the secondary out, you will have to add a large shim behind the secondary and remove a shim from the bolt holding the secondary. If you need to move the secondary in, do the opposite.

When you get the 5/8" space, the secondary should slide back and forth a small amount (less than 1/8".) The play in the secondary helps "self-center" the secondary to the primary to a small extent, and keeps the side-loading forces off of the jackshaft bearing, as the bearing is not designed to be side loaded.
 
#16 ·
It's unlikely that the primary sheaves need adjustment. To get a lower RPM engagement, wildthangci is spot on. Engagement happens when the force of the weights as they spin overcomes the force of the spring. A softer spring will engage quicker than a stiffer spring. I would follow his advice and make sure the clutch is clean, a lot of times a clutch that engages at too high an rpm has sticky weights that require a much faster clutch RPM before they start moving the movable sheave.

Adjusting the sheave clearance is necessary if the sheave-to-belt clearance is excessive. Like wildthang also said, it will require a clutch holding fixture, a spider tool, a jamb nut tool, a really good bench to hold the clutch tool to, and a 3/4" breaker bar to remove the spider nut and spider. Those are held on with over 200 ft.lbs of force and are often loctited on top of that. Sometimes you have to add heat. You will also need a clutch puller to get the clutch off the engine.

Removing the clutch cover to change the spring is simple. You don't have to remove the clutch to take off the cover. Loosen and remove four of the six bolts, leaving two opposite of each other. Then slowly remove the remaining bolts, taking them out evenly. As you remove the bolts, tension from the spring will lessen, but there still may be a bit of force in the spring as the bolts get to the end of their threads, so be prepared for that. Once the clutch cover is off, you can remove the spring and clean the weight pivots. Look at where the weights engage the rollers on the spider. If you have a ton of wear there, it is time to get the clutch rebuilt. As wildthang also mentioned previously, the stock spring should be gold and the weights should be marked 10M.

When you reassemble the clutch with the new spring, make sure you orient the small X on the clutch cover with a similar X on the spider. That will make sure you retain the factory clutch balance.

Some folks want a better hole shot for racing, so they may try a heavier spring to make the engine spin faster before the clutch engages. That can lead to other performance issues. Stick to stock until you are familiar with what the sled does, then change things to change the performance to what you want.
 
#17 ·
Correct the stock weights that are currently on it are the 10/M. They have some wear but aren't wore excessively to warrant a new set of weights. The current spring is the blue and I need to change that back to the stock gold one. With the belt on both clutches the primary sheave to belt clearance is about 7/16" to 5/8" of openness. I don't know if that is too loose or just right. The current belt has a sliver of top that's been cut off. 1/8" by 1" long. Probably gonna buy a new belt and keep the old one as a spare just in case I fry the new one
 
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