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How to remove drive shaft assembly

21K views 17 replies 6 participants last post by  caddylover 
#1 ·
The speedometer quit working a couple years ago and after taking the speedometer adapter off I found a hack job someone did putting a new bearing on. I changed the speedo key and it lasted a while but now I have to change the drive shaft assembly. The end of the drive shaft is smashed.

Do I have to remove the bearing first? Cut it off? Then?
 
#2 ·
You don't have to remove the bearing to get the drive shaft out of the machine. You have to open the chain case up and remove the nut holding the gear on. The shaft should slide out then, but a lot of people will take the chain case off and slide it off the end of the shaft to make it easier to get out.

The bearing on the PTO side is held on either by a set screw or twist lock. If it is a set screw, you should be able to see it and remove the bearing. It will be visible between the track and tunnel.


Oh, and you'll want to remove the rear skid, IMHO, it makes it a lot easier. You have to loosen up the track anyway.
 
#4 ·
Time to get started on this.

So loosen up track and pull skid.
Remove speedo cable and drive adapter.
Remove chain case cover and loosen nut holding gear on.

Are the steps correct so far?
 
#5 ·
It's likely you will have to remove both sprockets and chain to get the clearance to slide the shaft toward the chaincase. Sometimes that's not enough and you have to remove the chaincase as well.

The bearing on the PTO side has a locking collar with a set screw. Remove the set screw, then tap the locking collar with a punch opposite the direction of the shaft rotation to remove the collar. Move the collar away from the bearing. You should now be able to remove the bearing from the drive shaft. Push the drive shaft toward the chaincase (already removed the sprockets & chain) and the drive shaft should clear the bulkhead.

Take a few pics of the PTO side of the bearing carrier, there are a few different ones of those and if you remove them without noting where things go, you may get parts back in the wrong order. It doesn't hurt to take pics of the sprockets, either, as they are often not symmetrical, so there may be one side that has to go in. Note the position of any spacers or washers, as well.

It's almost impossible to remove only the bottom sprocket without taking the top one as well. It's simple to do both sprockets and chain at the same time. Installation will be the same, do all three at once. It should go easy.
 
#6 ·
if it has 4 cog driveshaft then you will be removing the chaincase assembly completely otherwise if it has 2 cog driveshaft you will be fine just removing the top and bottom gears and will be able to slide the shaft to the right first (from bottom) then it will pull right out.
 
#7 ·
Just checked it's 2 cogs. The end of the driveshaft with the bearing is completely beaten with a hammer so it's unusable...have to replace the whole driveshaft.

Definetly will be taking pictures along the way.

Thanks for the info
 
#10 ·
Well now I need a chain case, the bolts holding the cover on were so tight that when I lightly tightened then first to break the seal they broke off flush with the back of the chain case. Was afraid of that.
 
#11 ·
Once you get the case off you can try to drill out the broken bolts using a smaller diameter drill.
*** tip***
Center punch the bolt before drilling to make a starting mark so that the bit does not wander.

Also if you use a reverse twist drill bit it may just catch enough to spin the bolt out rather than having to use an extractor.
 
#12 ·
Ok I will get back to it this weekend. Start with the chain case first and see if I get the broken bolts out. That way if it doesn't work I can order one and the drive shaft at the same time.
 
#14 ·
Pretty much any tool supply should have them. I bought some at NAPA, and also bought some at Home Depot.
 
#16 ·
What sled are you working on? Some drive shaft bearings are pressed on and that style shaft requires the chaincase to be removed and shaft moves to mag side to come out. Those shafts that use a lock collar or set screws are moved to PTO side for removal. Depending on what year machine, I may have a chaincase that I would give you if we can figure out shipping and you cover that cost.
 
#17 ·
Good mention of Napa as they have them individually. And I definetly won't buy a cheap ones cause I'm sure I will use them again.

I'm working on my 93 indy 500 efi, probably same chaincase as most old indys. I'm going to try drill them out first. I've got patience.
I found a driveshaft with a new Polaris bearing and the flange installed but I'm going to work on the broken bolts first.
 
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