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Old 01-06-2013, 05:08 PM   #1 (permalink)
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High Altitude kit

I have a 2010 and a 2009 polaris RMK 600. Both tracks are 144"x 2in lugs. I am thinking about going out to west yellowstone. I usually ride around MN where the elevations is around 1300ft. I know i need to change some things because of the altitude i just dont know exactly what. I am also wondering what it will cost.
Thanks for the help!
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The 2010 has a slp pipe. Other then that they are both stock.
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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EFI or Carbed?

For the 2010, go to SLP's website and look at their information for that pipe. They list clutching and jetting information for elevation and temperature.
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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They are both EFI
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Old 01-06-2013, 11:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I have this info from the chart for the 08 600 RMK, the 09 should be similar.

For 6000-8000 feet use 10-56 weights, same spring (black) in the primary. It looks like you drop 2 grams per 2000 feet in weight, so for 8000-10000, use 10-54 weights.

In the secondary, use the same spring (red/black) and change to a 56/42 .36 helix in the secondary for all elevations over 2000 feet.

The EFI keeps you calibrated for fuel, so that won't be an issue.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Is it possible to just buy a kit with everything i need already in it?
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Better check where you're going before modding it out. If you're actually going to be *in* Yellowstone, I don't believe you can even bring your own sled into the park anymore. The tree-huggers have pretty much shut that all down. Not saying there aren't areas you can ride without being part of a "tour" group, but I'd make sure about it before heading out there.

Of course, you're always welcome to come to the "greatest snow on earth" here in Utah. We have some of the best riding anywhere in the US here, and it's not overly restricted (yet).
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Old 01-07-2013, 02:58 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If it's an EFI, any kit would include the appropriate spring and weights for the primary, and the appropriate spring and helix for the secondary. Looking at the Polaris manual, the primary spring doesn't need to be changed, all you need to change is the weights. In the secondary, the helix is all that is different. Not sure what more a kit would do for you except empty your wallet...

There are tons of riding areas around Yellowstone that aren't in the park and don't require the Best Technology for emissions. Yellowstone is on my bucket list to ride if I ever get tired of the awesome snow in Oregon
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Old 01-07-2013, 04:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I really appreciate all the help. Do you know how much it would cost for the helix?
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Old 01-07-2013, 05:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Before buying one, make sure to check what you have already. It may be the one you need, it's worth checking.

The secondary is a TSS 04 Team clutch that rides on a splined jackshaft (as opposed to the older style TSS98 that were driven off a keyed jackshaft.) Expect to pay about $100 for a new helix. Sometimes you can find 'em on ebay or in the different forum classifieds for cheaper. You will need the ER style to accomodate the PERC reverse in your sled. Some new sleds came with a dual position helix with two different rates. If so, you will have one set of ramps at one rate and another set at a different rate. The rates will be stamped on the helix.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Alright, i went to the polaris dealer and they told me exacly what i need change. This may sound like a stupid question but..are the clutch weights somewhere out in the open where i can easily see them? And do they have their wieghts stamped on them so i know exactly what they are?
Thank you guys for all the help with this!!!!!
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:33 AM   #12 (permalink)
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If the clutch cover is removed and there is no spring pressure on the movable sheave, the weights are easy to remove. There will be numbers stamped on the sides of the weights. You should be able to see without removal. Depending on the weight, it may have numbers that have to be compared to a chart to determine the weight. There are also tools that compress and hold the spring without removing anything that allow access to the weights.

If you do remove the weights, make sure you put the weight pins back in the same way they came out. The factory way keeps the pin in the clutch if the nut were to fall off. If you put them in backwards, if the nut falls off, the pin will fall and then the weight takes out the clutch. Something about a 68 gram projectile leaving it's containment at 8000 rpm is bad on stuff
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Carry Loc-tite for the bolts and weight pins.
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