maintenence free vs. standard battery - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

Mongo · 10-04-2006, 11:46 AM

can either buy a regular add-acid-to battery or a sealed mainenence-free battery. any advantage/disadvantage for use in a sled for either?

IndianRvrShiver · 10-04-2006, 01:29 PM

Didn't know there were that many choices for sled batteries!

Go with the more expensive one if you can afford it, since it will prolly give you better service. My experience with sled batts is they may last 2 years, at best!!

BC_Dan · 10-04-2006, 03:44 PM

I agree, two years seems to be the lifespan... It seems to me that the add-acid batteries are a little more forgiving than the maintenance free when it comes to overcharging... but neither of 'em seem to last long, probably because of the long time between charges in the summertime...

Mongo · 10-05-2006, 04:38 PM

another concern i forgot to mention is freezing - which one would survive better overnight outside in -10 temps? my friend's parents left their Indy out a couple nights in a row( which i don't and know not to do) and popped most of the caps.

IndianRvrShiver · 10-05-2006, 05:49 PM

If a battery is fully charged, it shouldn't be a problem! A very weak battery may pop! Routine battery examinations divulge irregularities in the charging system as well as in the batteries. The principle method is to examine the electrochemistry of the battery through hydrometric electrolyte inspection. As previously discussed, this important examination cannot be accomplished with sealed absorption or gel batteries. Voltage readings alone require experience to interpret. Hydrometric readings will uncover early warnings of overcharging or overdischarging before batteries are damaged. The state-of-charge and reliability of a lead acid battery can best be determined by the specific gravity of the electrolyte measured directly with a common bulb-type hydrometer with a glass float. We do not recommend the ball float type hydrometer. Specific gravity is a unit of measurement for determining the sulfuric acid content of the electrolyte. The recommended fully charged specific gravity of marine batteries is 1.255 to 1.265 taken at 80°F. More than .025 spread in readings between fully charged cells indicates that the battery may need an equalization charge. If this condition persists, the cell is failing and the battery should be replaced. Since water has a value of 1.000, electrolyte with a specific gravity of 1.260 means it is 1.260 times heavier than pure water while pure concentrated sulfuric acid has a specific gravity of 1.835.

The following table illustrates typical specific gravity values for a cell in various stages of charge:

100% Charged.......1.255 - 1.260 Sp. Gr.
75% Charged.......1.220 - 1.225 Sp. Gr.
50% Charged.......1.185 - 1.190 Sp. Gr.
25% Charged.......1.150 - 1.155 Sp. Gr.
0% Charged.......1.115 - 1.120 Sp. Gr.

Hope this helps!!

BC_Dan · 10-05-2006, 07:36 PM

IndianRvrShiver, go to the head of the class. That was probably the most complete answer regarding batteries I have ever read. Nice post!

**RJ Gleason** · 10-05-2006, 08:38 PM

Any battery will last longer if you use a battery tender over the summer, or at least a trickle charger.

IndianRvrShiver · 10-05-2006, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BC_Dan

IndianRvrShiver, go to the head of the class. That was probably the most complete answer regarding batteries I have ever read. Nice post!

Aw geez, BC_Dan!

Thanks for the props, but only the first 2 lines were mine..........rest was cut/paste!!

You think I pull this stuff out my ying-yang??

But you're right, that was a very good explanation!!

Mongo · 10-09-2006, 11:45 AM

yeah thanks man.. i knew it was cut and paste but who cares, the info was great! you should change your name to The Professor

PolarisINDY500 · 10-09-2006, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mongo

yeah thanks man.. i knew it was cut and paste but who cares, the info was great! you should change your name to The Professor

i knew it was a cut/paste when i read "as previously discussed" and where it said "we do not recomend" other than that, it sounded as if IRS knew what he was talking about. you should have eddited the reply, you could have fooled all of us.

I_R_Josh · 10-09-2006, 01:28 PM

yeah I knew it was bogus when IRS seemed like he knew what he was talking about....

IndianRvrShiver · 10-09-2006, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by I_R_Josh

yeah I knew it was bogus when IRS seemed like he knew what he was talking about....

HEY!! Now cut that out!!

rgoers · 10-16-2006, 06:26 PM

I bought 2 new batts last season. I got one wet cell, and one AGM. So far, I think the AGM is a better battery. The wet cell is a pain keeping the fluids where they should be. The AGM was more expensive, but it cranks the thing over like crazy. Lots and lots of power.

I use a *smart* battery tender. Everybody blames the batteries, but if you ask an expert, they'll tell you it's how they're maintained that kills them prematurely. I know it's hard to justify a $40 tender for a $40 battery - but add up the cost of a new battery every couple years, and the battery tender looks better all the time.