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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 12:43 PM Thread Starter
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heat

Hi all. I recently had my top end redone. premixed my gas 50:1 and drained my synthetic oil for regular mineral oil. its a 800 twin polaris with VES. I burned off that first tank put in a little more premix and tried to open her up a little more this time. going down the lake on powder it would give me a temp light if i pulled over 7500 rpm and go off as soon as i pull out of that range instantly. Is my premix leaning me out, or possibly the lack of synthetic oil my problem? Or possibly even just the rings havent seated fully yet? Should I mabey go up on my main jets seeing how its only when opening her up. Doesn't seem to be air in my coolant,its been bled out. Any input would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
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P.S. My plugs are a nice chocolate brown, but thats from cruising around at low and mid range as i cant do a WOT chop with the temp issue governing my engine.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 01:52 PM
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You need to burp the coolant loops out correctly. There is a very specific procedure for most sleds that involves lifting the front and back ends up alternating. Some sleds also have an air bleeder that can be opened in the back to get rid of any air bubbles.

1) 2004 Yamaha Warrior
2) 2006 Yamaha Nytro
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 02:57 PM
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I believe for VES sleds you are supposed to run synthetic. IDK why that is just my understanding.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
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I do normally run synthetic. I'm just not ATM as I'm seating new rings.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-12-2013, 09:50 PM Thread Starter
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not sure if its heat or a detonation issue yet
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-12-2013, 10:32 PM
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What year 800? If it has a det. sensor, and the key is in the premium setting and you are running regular, you may be seeing a det. light.

I have always had good luck with bleeding the air out of Edge RMK's by putting the front up higher than the rear heat exchanger, then idling with the cap off until the rear exchanger is warm.

2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, Really OLD AC Cheetah

http://www.avalanche.org/accidents.php
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-13-2013, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Its a 2002 edge x 800
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-13-2013, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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i bled the coolant again no air, exchangers are nice and hot when running. But still if i hit a certain point on my throttle my temp light comes on instantly and goes off as soon as you let off on it. starts nice, great idle, mid range is perfect. Bad sensor maybe? or water pump not going great at high rpms? im stumped, gonna put synthetic oil back in and some premium fuel with octane booster to rule out the fuel but after that im not sure where too look. The exchangers are good and hot though. And i do mean its instant when you push the throttle not a couple of seconds or anything its happenening right now.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-13-2013, 01:56 PM
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The way you are describing the light coming on sounds more like a sensor or electrical problem and not overheating. If it overheats it shouldn't cool down instantly like you are describing.

Sometimes the nut on the water pump impeller does loosen, you can check that just to rule it out. But when that happens, the impeller doesn't pump coolant at all and the temp gets hot enough to over-pressure the cap and you lose coolant and the temp stays hot for a long time.

I would think about replacing the temp sensor.

2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, Really OLD AC Cheetah

http://www.avalanche.org/accidents.php
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-13-2013, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Im going to order a temp sensor tomorrow. i ordered a new coolant resevoir with cap too as I noticed the plastic tabs are getting worn off on my current one. Thanks BC I'll let you know if it works.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-13-2013, 07:51 PM
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My 02 RMK also needed a new bottle, if the bottle isn't perfect, it doesn't seal well. That's a pretty common problem.

Hope it works for you!!

2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, Really OLD AC Cheetah

http://www.avalanche.org/accidents.php
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-18-2013, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Well parts came in yesterday, it was -33 celcius but I put on my new temp sensor (easy) and coolant jug (not so easy without a garage at this temp) Anyway it worked so thank you B.C. Dan. My old bottle definately wasnt pressurizing I can tell that now for sure. But the temp sensor mightve been the thing that did it, because the wires snapped off in my hand when i went to take it off. Whichever worked Im glad both are done now and my 800 is pulling like a beast again! Im pretty sure my rings are seated good now so I'll be switching back to synthetic oil and cleaning my Ves one more time. How do I know for sure though just a compression test? Been 2 tanks of premix with my oil jug full of mineral 2 stroke oil so far. Again thanks Dan you really know your Polaris's. Gotta run my sleds calling me!
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-18-2013, 01:36 PM
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with the block issues on polaris 800's,i went with a mechanical water temp gauge on my 02' xc800. it sure pays off monitoring that gauge while riding,expectially on ice or hard packed roads !
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-18-2013, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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groomed trails and lakes piled in snow up here in Northern Manitoba. Mabey a summer project one day though when I go to a long track and add another aftermarket heat exchanger on the back.
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