Polaris XCR 700 Trouble - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

erikp434 · 01-07-2013, 06:17 PM

Hey everyone,

I am new to the site. I have been having some issues with my 1999 Polaris XCR 700 triple. I just replaced my hi-fax on both sides and rebuilt the fox shocks on it. New plugs, Carbides, full tune up!

Here is the issue. When I slowly start to take off it feels like my track is skipping giving me a jerking motion. Once I give it more throttle it seems to go away. I know im being vague but thats the best way to describe the situation. Could it be my belt tention? (brand new belt so I know its not that) or maybe even a clutch spring issue. I have jaked it up and running it w.o weight on it seems to run fine. Could it be a driveshaft issue? I did check all the bearings and bushings. Seem to be in good working condition. Im not all that formiliar with fixing these thats why im asking for some help. haha

Thanks

**kccats** · 01-07-2013, 07:40 PM

Welcome to the Snow Show! Did you clean your carbs?
Does it only do it when you take off with alot of throtle? That could be the track tenssion?

erikp434 · 01-07-2013, 08:10 PM

Carbs are clean. I did have to remove the bottom skid off to get at it easier and to clean it up. When i put it back under and bolted it back in my track was extremely tight. I loosened the track up a bit. Could it need to be loosened up more?

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meburdick · 01-07-2013, 08:31 PM

When you replaced the slides - did you loosen the track a little to compensate for the extra thickness on the new slides (compared to the old, worn ones)? Maybe it's too tight?

Here's a couple of things to do:

- Remove the drive belt
- Put the rear of the sled up in the air
- Turn the secondary / driven clutch by hand to get a sense of how it "feels"
- Loosen the jam nuts on the adjuster bolts at the back of the track
- Loosen the adjuster bolts, paying attention to count how many turns you move each one
- Place a 2x4 or similar sideways across the track, "behind" the two idler wheels that move to control track tension and tap with a hammer to push them forward
- Once you have the track fairly loose, reach up into the front of the tunnel on each side and see if you're able to move the driveshaft in any direction (up, down, side-to-side, etc). If it moves, other than rotationally, you likely have a bearing issue.
- Visually inspect the drive cogs to ensure they are not worn and are able to properly engage the track
- Find an object that weighs about 10lbs and will fit between the rails of the skid - place this in the middle of the skid to push down on the track
- Start to tighten the track, paying attention to how far down that weight pushes the track. You want 1" to 1.5" of 'droop' in the track from that weight when it's tensioned properly. You could throw the weight in there before you start to see how well it's currently adjusted.
- Spin the track by hand (remove the weight, spin, replace the weight) a few times to ensure that you're getting the sag all at the bottom of the skid.
- Once you have the tension set correctly, and you're sure the track is straight, tighten the jam nuts and remove the weight from inside the skid.

- Loosen the jam nut on the chain tensioner
- Unscrew the chain tensioner a turn or two, then turn it back in by hand as far as you can
- Unscrew the tensioner 1/4 turn, hold in place, and re-tighten the jam nut

Turn the secondary by hand again at this point and decide if it feels any smoother than before.

meburdick · 01-07-2013, 08:32 PM

Also - Make sure that your new slides are cut to the correct length so that they don't interfere with track rotation, and make sure they are anchored correctly with the screws so that they don't slide front-to-back while under load.

**BC_Dan** · 01-08-2013, 12:48 AM

Good post, meburdick!

meburdick · 01-08-2013, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BC_Dan

Good post, meburdick!

Thanks, Dan... but, you really shouldn't praise your own work. There's an awful lot in there that was learned / taken directly from processes that you use.