1993 polaris indy lite 340 wont start. - Page 2 - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

joshkidner · 12-22-2012, 03:01 PM

I would buy the part off ebay. 500 in it including purchase or after purchase? I assume after?

RXL · 12-22-2012, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marv78g

I replaced one of the seals already.
When one puts hand over the carbs while another pulls engine over one plug is wetter then the other.

Is this something I should even fix? Or just part it out on ebay?

Just wanted something for my daughter to ride. I have $500 into it so far

Just get a good service manual on the machine and have at it ... My daughter learned more than she bargained for that way..
One side lean says crank seal ... jmo.

meburdick · 12-22-2012, 08:54 PM

You said "good compression". A) What are the readings on both cylinders? B) Have you verified this with a different gauge?

If your compression is low, you're going to have a hard time starting it. Once running, though, it would likely stay running.

You have a single carb setup, so there's nothing to "sync". The fuel pump doesn't "push" fuel into the motor - it's there to refill the carb bowl. If your bowl is not filling correctly, you may not be able to truly feed enough fuel to the cylinders to start.

Here are some things to check:

- Pull the carb, remove the bowl. Stand it on a bench upside down. The float arm should be sitting level / parallel to the bench. If not, you may have an underfilled bowl.
- Check the adjustment of the choke plunger. If this isn't opening enough, you're not getting enough enrichment when cold starting.
- Check the pilot jet. I know you've cleaned it, but clean it again. Use a fine gauge wire to make sure that all passages through the jet are open, and be sure that all passages through the body for the idle circuit are clear.
- Check your idle setting to be sure that the slide is up about 3/8" off the bottom of the carb.
- Check the fuel pickup line in the tank, the fuel filter, and the pump for any restrictions that could be keeping the carb bowl from getting completely filled.

Have you looked at the plugs after running once you DO get it running? If they show signs of lean, you're simply not getting enough fuel into the motor.

marv78g · 12-26-2012, 10:09 PM

Compression is 130 on each cylinder.
Its is a dual carb setup.
I have had 2 shops look at the sled and noone can figure out what it is.

Anything I can try?

meburdick · 12-26-2012, 10:27 PM

When you pour some gas in and get it running, does one cylinder feel warmer than the other? How does it actually run? If you run it for a bit, shut it down, and pull the plugs - what do they look like?

marv78g · 12-29-2012, 07:27 AM

Both cylinders feel the same
Its runs real good once it get started.
Put new plugs in it. Ran it for a hour on trail. Ran real good. Got it home, shut it off and wouldnt start up again until fuel is put in cylinders
Spark plugs look good.

Does it have anyone else stumped???
Im ready to put insurance on it and smash it..

meburdick · 12-29-2012, 07:35 AM

Take the air box off and start it up. Completely cover the intake side of each carb, one at a time. If covering the carb makes the motor die, you're good. If not, you still have an air leak.

marv78g · 12-29-2012, 07:44 AM

I took the air box off while I was working on it was sick of it being in the way when removing and cleaning carbs. Ill check the intake side of the sled when I get it runnin and get back to you.

What would cause a air leak?
I mean there isnt must to these snowmobiles.
I got spark, got fuel, good compression, but hard to start unless fuel is put in cylinder.

Would I need to replace all 3 crank seals? or could I install i primer on the carbs?

meburdick · 12-29-2012, 08:00 AM

If you have a failed / failing seal, you need to replace it. A primer would help you get started, but it would not prevent the progressive issues with the seal from causing a lean burn-down.

RXL · 12-29-2012, 08:01 AM

How are the carb boots ? I didn't see any mention of them..
For it not to be drawing through the carb when pulling it over but it will when running says there is an air leak... Carb boot or crank seal.

marv78g · 12-29-2012, 09:44 AM

I replaced the carb boots.
If I put my hand over one carb when it is running it will die
If I put my hand over the other carb it will still run.

Pretty much ending up like its the crank seals?

If so does anyone know how much it would cost to have them replaced?
I know the seals are a couple dollars but dont ya have to pull the motor and split motor to get the crank out to get the seals on it and have to press bearing off and back on?

Should i attempt it or take it somewhere?
I have worked on a snowmobile engine internals before

meburdick · 12-29-2012, 09:46 AM

How mechanically inclined are you? If you're comfortable getting dirty and using a wrench, take the project on yourself. I believe that the most "custom" tool you would need would be the clutch puller to remove the primary from the crank shaft.

And, congratulations on finding the problem when the dealers you were working with had no ideas.

marv78g · 12-29-2012, 09:50 AM

I work at a salvage yard so pretty much all about dismantling vehicles and replacing motors trans etc but never really opened up a snowmobile engine.

Ya im sure I would of had a pretty nice bill with it not fixed but I wanted to post on here as you guys all seem so very helpful....

Is it like a day project? or couple hour?

Ill have to get a clutch puller but they arent that costly I dont think

meburdick · 12-29-2012, 10:01 AM

You can buy a puller, or you might be able to "make" one easily. Many guys get an appropriate size/thread bolt to fit into the face of the clutch, fill the cavity between the end of the of the shaft end the face of the clutch with grease, then screw in the bolt. Might have to give it a little twist then let it sit for a while and twist again until it come off.