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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-20-2012, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Carb syncing tool

Is there any certain dimensions to use? I saw the post in the how to's but didn't see any specifics. Also, would it be alright to use torch to cleaners to clean the carb? Where would you hook the tubes to on the carb? Thanks.

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-20-2012, 11:42 AM
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Not sure what you mean by dimension. Its hard to sync 2 stroke carbs with carb sync guages because of the erratic idle of a 2 stroke. It can be done but its a pain.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-20-2012, 03:58 PM
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Never used a synchronizer to synchronize my twin carburetors. The way I did it is pull the carbs off and keep the throttle cable connected and hold the carburetor in hand looking at the end that goes to the air box and with the other hand pull the gas throttle to wide open and watch the slides to see where they max out at the top of the carburetor, sould be flush at the top of the opening. Loosen the jam nut where the cable is at the top of the carburetor and make any necessary adjustments and do the same the other carburetor and that's pretty much how you synchronize them. And set the idol to your desired setting or the manufacture setting.

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-20-2012, 04:24 PM
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It's simple! Start mwith the throtle lever pinned. Then adjust the cablesso the slides are flush with the top of the throat. Then use a 3/16" drill bit and put it under the slide and release the throtle lever, thighten or loosen the idle screw till there is a bit of drag. Then do the other! Now start it and adjust up or down the idle screw (do each the same number of turns) once you get the lowest rpm possible, adjust the air screw in or out to get the idle the highest possible! Adjust down and try again!
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-21-2012, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Ok in the how to's it had a link for making the tool so I figured that's what you do. The last snowmobile I cleaned the carb on was only a sinle carb, so I didn't have to worry about syncing them.

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-21-2012, 04:49 PM
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even with a single carburetor you should still do it so gets the proper atomization with the air fuel mixture

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-21-2012, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kccats View Post
It's simple! Start mwith the throtle lever pinned. Then adjust the cablesso the slides are flush with the top of the throat. Then use a 3/16" drill bit and put it under the slide and release the throtle lever, thighten or loosen the idle screw till there is a bit of drag. Then do the other! Now start it and adjust up or down the idle screw (do each the same number of turns) once you get the lowest rpm possible, adjust the air screw in or out to get the idle the highest possible! Adjust down and try again!
x2 on the drill bit idean thats how i synced mine. I used 1/8 lightly seated.

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-21-2012, 05:46 PM
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[QUOTE=joshkidner;527348]x2 on the drill bit idean thats how i synced mine. I used 1/8 lightly seated.

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if it's synchronized at the top properly, then it should be synchronized at the bottom automatically

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-22-2012, 06:43 AM
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The top wont mean the bottom is good! The bottom is controlled by the idle screw!
Yeah an 1/8" would work better on a small bore!
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 07:18 AM
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The sync tool is for 4 strokers.

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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Ok thanks for the help, but I won't have time to work on the snowmobile until later this coming week. I may need some more help, I'm not sure if I completely understand the one part about syncing them at the bottom.

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SOLD-1985 Yamaha SRV 540- in mint condition
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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Also, would it be alright to use torch tip cleaners to clean the jets?

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 05:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kccats View Post
It's simple! Start mwith the throtle lever pinned. Then adjust the cablesso the slides are flush with the top of the throat. Then use a 3/16" drill bit and put it under the slide and release the throtle lever, thighten or loosen the idle screw till there is a bit of drag. Then do the other! Now start it and adjust up or down the idle screw (do each the same number of turns) once you get the lowest rpm possible, adjust the air screw in or out to get the idle the highest possible! Adjust down and try again!
The main slide should *just* clear the top of the carb throat at WOT (should be just a hair above flush).

You should back the idle screws all the way out to see where the slides fall naturally, too. You want them to almost bottom on the carb (that would be the ideal). At that point, use the drill bit to set an initial spacing for idle, but know that you will likely end up with your idle too high and will have to back them out a bit.

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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 05:54 PM
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Oh.. Make sure you adjust your choke plungers correctly, too...

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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 06:17 PM
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torch tips are much bigger than pilot jets, but if you don't scratch the jets, they should work fine. I find the copper wire in a single strand of 4-wire telephone wire works perfectly to knock the varnish down if there is any.

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 06:45 PM
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Yeah I've done that too! I have about a 3" piece of 10ga stranded house wire with half stiped. The just bend down one strand at a time!
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-23-2012, 08:21 PM
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I use a brisel out of a wire brush with carb cleaner and compressed air!

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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I've been trying to read up on how to clean it and everything, but may have a couple more questions tomorrow. We are supposed to get 5-7 inches of snow tomorrow. What do you mean when you say a bit of drag for setting the idle? Should I need to readjust the choke plunger or bleed the oil pump after I clean the carb? Thanks for all your help.

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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 10:09 PM
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I would not expect to have to bleed the oil pump. At least checking the adjustment of the plungers would be a good idea as it only take a second...

Take a thin piece of solid wire and bend it at a ninety degree angle about 1" from the end. Flip the choke on and slip the 1" section of wire into the cavity in the carb so that it will sit under the plunger. Release the choke lever and make sure you can't pull the plunger out. While putting some tension on the piece of wire, slowly apply the choke lever until the wire is free. You should have just started applying pressure to the choke switch when that wire lets go. Anything other than those results and you should consider an adjustment and/or thorough cleaning of the plunger / opening.

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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 12-25-2012, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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There should be lines on the oil pump to show it a full throttle and a idle, correct?

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