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12-20-2012, 10:40 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Convoy, Ohio
Posts: 359
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Carb syncing tool
Is there any certain dimensions to use? I saw the post in the how to's but didn't see any specifics. Also, would it be alright to use torch to cleaners to clean the carb? Where would you hook the tubes to on the carb? Thanks.
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SOLD-1998 Ski Doo Formula III 700
SOLD-1990 Arctic Cat Prowler 440
SOLD-1992 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700
SOLD-1987 Polaris Indy 600
SOLD-1985 Yamaha SRV 540- in mint condition
SOLD-1979 Kawasaki Invader 440
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12-20-2012, 11:42 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 293
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Not sure what you mean by dimension. Its hard to sync 2 stroke carbs with carb sync guages because of the erratic idle of a 2 stroke. It can be done but its a pain.
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12-20-2012, 03:58 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 671
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Never used a synchronizer to synchronize my twin carburetors. The way I did it is pull the carbs off and keep the throttle cable connected and hold the carburetor in hand looking at the end that goes to the air box and with the other hand pull the gas throttle to wide open and watch the slides to see where they max out at the top of the carburetor, sould be flush at the top of the opening. Loosen the jam nut where the cable is at the top of the carburetor and make any necessary adjustments and do the same the other carburetor and that's pretty much how you synchronize them. And set the idol to your desired setting or the manufacture setting.
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RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT...!!!
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12-20-2012, 04:24 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 17,354
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It's simple! Start mwith the throtle lever pinned. Then adjust the cablesso the slides are flush with the top of the throat. Then use a 3/16" drill bit and put it under the slide and release the throtle lever, thighten or loosen the idle screw till there is a bit of drag. Then do the other! Now start it and adjust up or down the idle screw (do each the same number of turns) once you get the lowest rpm possible, adjust the air screw in or out to get the idle the highest possible! Adjust down and try again!
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12-21-2012, 04:18 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Convoy, Ohio
Posts: 359
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Ok in the how to's it had a link for making the tool so I figured that's what you do. The last snowmobile I cleaned the carb on was only a sinle carb, so I didn't have to worry about syncing them.
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SOLD-1998 Ski Doo Formula III 700
SOLD-1990 Arctic Cat Prowler 440
SOLD-1992 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700
SOLD-1987 Polaris Indy 600
SOLD-1985 Yamaha SRV 540- in mint condition
SOLD-1979 Kawasaki Invader 440
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12-21-2012, 04:49 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 671
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even with a single carburetor you should still do it so gets the proper atomization with the air fuel mixture
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RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT...!!!
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12-21-2012, 05:40 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: muskegon michigan
Posts: 703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kccats
It's simple! Start mwith the throtle lever pinned. Then adjust the cablesso the slides are flush with the top of the throat. Then use a 3/16" drill bit and put it under the slide and release the throtle lever, thighten or loosen the idle screw till there is a bit of drag. Then do the other! Now start it and adjust up or down the idle screw (do each the same number of turns) once you get the lowest rpm possible, adjust the air screw in or out to get the idle the highest possible! Adjust down and try again!
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x2 on the drill bit idean thats how i synced mine. I used 1/8 lightly seated.
Sent from my YP-GS1 using Snowmobile.com App
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1987 chasis with 1985 597cc under the hood. Xtra-10, fox shocks, and a whole lotta speed!
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12-21-2012, 05:46 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 671
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[QUOTE=joshkidner;527348]x2 on the drill bit idean thats how i synced mine. I used 1/8 lightly seated.
Sent from my YP-GS1 using Snowmobile.
if it's synchronized at the top properly, then it should be synchronized at the bottom automatically
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RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT...!!!
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12-22-2012, 06:43 AM
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#9 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 17,354
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The top wont mean the bottom is good! The bottom is controlled by the idle screw!
Yeah an 1/8" would work better on a small bore!
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12-23-2012, 07:18 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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I am Spartacus
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Milton Mills, NH
Posts: 23,208
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The sync tool is for 4 strokers.
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12-23-2012, 04:30 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Convoy, Ohio
Posts: 359
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Ok thanks for the help, but I won't have time to work on the snowmobile until later this coming week. I may need some more help, I'm not sure if I completely understand the one part about syncing them at the bottom.
__________________
SOLD-1998 Ski Doo Formula III 700
SOLD-1990 Arctic Cat Prowler 440
SOLD-1992 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700
SOLD-1987 Polaris Indy 600
SOLD-1985 Yamaha SRV 540- in mint condition
SOLD-1979 Kawasaki Invader 440
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12-23-2012, 04:52 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Convoy, Ohio
Posts: 359
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Also, would it be alright to use torch tip cleaners to clean the jets?
__________________
SOLD-1998 Ski Doo Formula III 700
SOLD-1990 Arctic Cat Prowler 440
SOLD-1992 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700
SOLD-1987 Polaris Indy 600
SOLD-1985 Yamaha SRV 540- in mint condition
SOLD-1979 Kawasaki Invader 440
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12-23-2012, 05:53 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Central CT
Posts: 843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kccats
It's simple! Start mwith the throtle lever pinned. Then adjust the cablesso the slides are flush with the top of the throat. Then use a 3/16" drill bit and put it under the slide and release the throtle lever, thighten or loosen the idle screw till there is a bit of drag. Then do the other! Now start it and adjust up or down the idle screw (do each the same number of turns) once you get the lowest rpm possible, adjust the air screw in or out to get the idle the highest possible! Adjust down and try again!
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The main slide should *just* clear the top of the carb throat at WOT (should be just a hair above flush).
You should back the idle screws all the way out to see where the slides fall naturally, too. You want them to almost bottom on the carb (that would be the ideal). At that point, use the drill bit to set an initial spacing for idle, but know that you will likely end up with your idle too high and will have to back them out a bit.
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12-23-2012, 05:54 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Central CT
Posts: 843
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Oh.. Make sure you adjust your choke plungers correctly, too...
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12-23-2012, 06:17 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 10,943
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torch tips are much bigger than pilot jets, but if you don't scratch the jets, they should work fine. I find the copper wire in a single strand of 4-wire telephone wire works perfectly to knock the varnish down if there is any.
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12-23-2012, 06:45 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 17,354
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Yeah I've done that too! I have about a 3" piece of 10ga stranded house wire with half stiped. The just bend down one strand at a time!
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12-23-2012, 08:21 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Repair Shop Owner
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: North Western Pa
Posts: 528
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I use a brisel out of a wire brush with carb cleaner and compressed air!
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12-25-2012, 10:03 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Convoy, Ohio
Posts: 359
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I've been trying to read up on how to clean it and everything, but may have a couple more questions tomorrow. We are supposed to get 5-7 inches of snow tomorrow. What do you mean when you say a bit of drag for setting the idle? Should I need to readjust the choke plunger or bleed the oil pump after I clean the carb? Thanks for all your help.
__________________
SOLD-1998 Ski Doo Formula III 700
SOLD-1990 Arctic Cat Prowler 440
SOLD-1992 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700
SOLD-1987 Polaris Indy 600
SOLD-1985 Yamaha SRV 540- in mint condition
SOLD-1979 Kawasaki Invader 440
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12-25-2012, 10:09 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Central CT
Posts: 843
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I would not expect to have to bleed the oil pump. At least checking the adjustment of the plungers would be a good idea as it only take a second...
Take a thin piece of solid wire and bend it at a ninety degree angle about 1" from the end. Flip the choke on and slip the 1" section of wire into the cavity in the carb so that it will sit under the plunger. Release the choke lever and make sure you can't pull the plunger out. While putting some tension on the piece of wire, slowly apply the choke lever until the wire is free. You should have just started applying pressure to the choke switch when that wire lets go. Anything other than those results and you should consider an adjustment and/or thorough cleaning of the plunger / opening.
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12-25-2012, 10:26 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Convoy, Ohio
Posts: 359
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There should be lines on the oil pump to show it a full throttle and a idle, correct?
__________________
SOLD-1998 Ski Doo Formula III 700
SOLD-1990 Arctic Cat Prowler 440
SOLD-1992 Arctic Cat Wildcat 700
SOLD-1987 Polaris Indy 600
SOLD-1985 Yamaha SRV 540- in mint condition
SOLD-1979 Kawasaki Invader 440
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