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Old 12-14-2012, 06:36 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ZRTEETH View Post
I have a 2011 f8 which is efi and my manual says to mix the first tank with 40:1premix. My dealer had the tank already full for me with the premix already in it. I have rebuilt several efi sled motors and have always ran atleast a couple of gallons of premix through them with not one problem. The fuel doesn't get thicker so to speak when you add the oil to the fuel. Fuel itself has molecules the same size as 2 cycle oil. You are talking microscopic if that. Finer than any filter on a snowmobile could catch by far. Not even the most sensative sensor would know if the fuel had oil in it or not.... on a snowmobile anyway's. Oh yeah... get new gaskets to.
So is this verification then, you DO use a fuel/oil mixture in the tank regardless if EFI or not?
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:43 PM   #42 (permalink)
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No need to remove the pistons! Just take some 120 grit emery paper and go over the edges of all the ports! If you run your finger across the edge it should be very smooth and not sharp! Also see if the piston will move up and down or twist? IT SHOULD SLIDE BACK AND FORTH!
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:15 PM   #43 (permalink)
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The ports look to be chamfered just fine. I'll be honest the noise I heard in the second video sounds like piston slap. Are you sure the pistons that came out of it weren't over sized? I assume you bought standard size pistons? I helped a friend out with an older polaris indy 440 trail. He rebuilt the topend and had major trouble getting it to run and his engine was making the exact same noise. Long story short, we disassembled the engine and I started measuring pistons and cylinders and come to fine out the cylinders were bored .010 over and he bought standard size pistons for it because he said the cylinders looked ok and just assumed it had never been bored. In your case the cylinders are plated but that doesn't mean it was never bored and replated at one time though. Make sure they are the right pistons for the right engine to.
Does anyone else think that is what that noise is? You've got me really worried now. The box the new SPI pistons came in says SM-09077 I am having trouble verifying if that is the correct SPI part number for a 98 zr600. Will the old pistons have any markings to show what size it is, I'll look at them later when I can remember where I put them....Also the "coating" on the pistons seems to be wearing off from the little bit of time they were in the cyclinders, does that seem off?

Just finished my rebuild but...-securedownload2.jpg

If it comes down to it I'll have the dealer tell me what size it is and then I'll order a new piston kit. I don't really mind I just want to be sure everything is done right.
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:18 PM   #44 (permalink)
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No need to remove the pistons! Just take some 120 grit emery paper and go over the edges of all the ports! If you run your finger across the edge it should be very smooth and not sharp! Also see if the piston will move up and down or twist? IT SHOULD SLIDE BACK AND FORTH!
Already removed the pistons, I wanted to oil the bearing better anyway. When you say see if the piston will move up or down or twist what/when do you mean?
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:36 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Found the old pistons, I would assume they are arctic cat judging by the ART marked on the inside. I lined the new and old piston up and I know the difference would be small but they seemed the same size...I will measure stuff tomorrow to be sure. Any other thoughts on the noise in the 2nd vid, also anyone know if Wiseco circlips will work on SPI pistons?
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Old 12-14-2012, 07:51 PM   #46 (permalink)
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The clips would be fine, they have the same Diam! Check the slop!
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:36 PM   #47 (permalink)
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The clips would be fine, they have the same Diam! Check the slop!
I wasn't neccesarily trying to check but when I took the pistons off I didn't notice any slop up or down and definately not any twisting.
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Old 12-14-2012, 10:53 PM   #48 (permalink)
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I would be willing to go out on a limb and guarantee you would have no problems with running premix (40:1) for your first tank. But then again Im not close enough for you to strangle me if something did go wrong LOL!!! I honestly wouldn't antisipate any problems though. I have mixed (40:1) with every efi snowmobile engine rebuild with no problems..... and thats about 12 or 13 efi rebuilds.
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:37 AM   #49 (permalink)
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I wouldn't! You can as long as you mix the gas and oil in a can first, but trust me it's ALOT easier to just pull up on the oil pump lever!
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:59 PM   #50 (permalink)
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This thread kinda turned into my general questions while preparing my sled, so here is another one. Does my skid look put together correctly... Obviously the springs need to go the rest of the way on, but I saw on another forum a guide that showed cutting off the tops of the slides to make putting the springs on easier so I did that.

Just finished my rebuild but...-.jpg

Just finished my rebuild but...-b.jpg

Just finished my rebuild but...-c.jpg

Just finished my rebuild but...-d.jpg
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:17 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Looks good except the missing nut on the top of the shock!
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:21 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ebaccm26 View Post
This thread kinda turned into my general questions while preparing my sled, so here is another one. Does my skid look put together correctly... Obviously the springs need to go the rest of the way on, but I saw on another forum a guide that showed cutting off the tops of the slides to make putting the springs on easier so I did that.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you have an awful lot of parts missing. I don't see the track, the tunnel, the seat...
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:24 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Looks good except the missing nut on the top of the shock!
Yeah I actually just noticed that when I was adding to my last post. Also I have heard of different ways to put the skid in. One was to put the springs in the slides after putting the skid on the sled, the other was to put them on first and compress the skid with a ratchet strap. I cut the tops off the slides to make putting the springs in easier I am just worried it may be hard to get them in while its on the sled since the springs are new and thicker so they may be harder to manipulate. Any input on what way to go about this.
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Old 12-17-2012, 09:26 PM   #54 (permalink)
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you have an awful lot of parts missing. I don't see the track, the tunnel, the seat...
Haha, when I started to read your post I actually got really worried for a second.
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Old 12-26-2012, 06:54 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Ok my sled is almost ready except for the rear suspension, it seems like the skid is not hanging down low enough. I don't have the springs in the slides yet or the track tensioned and aligned but neither of those things seems to me like they would make a difference. I'll post some pictures so you can see it and tell me whether it looks fine to you or not because honestly I'm not sure.

The only thing I noticed that I've seen different in some pictures is that the arm?(that I drew the arrow to in the 2nd picture) is angled back and I have seen it mostly as angled forward in other pictures. So I'm not sure if I just need to push the skid one way or another or...?

Just finished my rebuild but...-eee.jpg

Just finished my rebuild but...-ddd.jpg

Just finished my rebuild but...-bbb.jpg
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:33 PM   #56 (permalink)
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The cross bar was suposed to keep it straight up!
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:40 PM   #57 (permalink)
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The cross bar was suposed to keep it straight up!
Is that the thing I pointed out? So what do I need to do?

Edit: After looking back at the pictures I think I see that I need to do, the thing I have the arrow pointing to needs to be pushed forwards? If that is right what other parts would need to be loosened to allow movement? I'm just having trouble seeing how it could move.
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:12 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ZRTEETH View Post
I have a 2011 f8 which is efi and my manual says to mix the first tank with 40:1premix. My dealer had the tank already full for me with the premix already in it.
It must have changed with the different engines, but even the current factory service manual (as well as owners manual) recommend NO oil ever be added to the gas tank for an EFI of that year.

Attached is a pic from the factory service manual for the OP's sled...

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Old 12-27-2012, 05:38 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Once the spring is in place on the triangle it should straighten out!
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:14 PM   #60 (permalink)
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I'm pretty sure I have it the way it should be now, I had to move the 2 rods that run next to the shock to another set of holes a little further back.

Look right now? Other than the track of course.

Just finished my rebuild but...-111.jpg

Just finished my rebuild but...-222.jpg
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