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12-08-2012, 07:04 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kemo
this must be for select few sleds, is it specific to arctic EFI?
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As far as I know, ALL manufacturers agree, never add oil to an EFI engine. The oil can gum up a fuel injector fairly quickly, they are meant for gas only.
Also,arctic cat efi sleds have a 'new engine break in' mode, but as far as I know, there is no way to trigger it short of a factory fresh ECU.
__________________
1) 2000 Arctic cat ZR 700, which now thinks it is a 2001 ZR 600 EFI APV w/136" ripsaw. (for sale!)
2) 1995 Yamaha VMAX 600, which now thinks it is a Polaris! (Polaris x10 suspension, Polaris P85 clutch) (for sale!)
3) 2004 Yamaha Warrior
4) 2006 Yamaha Nytro
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12-08-2012, 07:13 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Thief River Falls, MN
Posts: 344
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interesting... something to be learned every day, and I'm darn glad you all are willing to share  I haven't been under the hood of an EFI snowmobile to know what EFI technology they have to compare to the automotive world (which is what I'm very familiar with).
Is that the general consensus? No one has completely answered my question to remove any doubt, however, smokingcrater, you are the closest in addressing it in its entirety.
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12-08-2012, 10:26 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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Ben
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan
Posts: 108
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Guess it's coming back apart tomorrow!
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1998 zr 600 efi
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12-08-2012, 10:36 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Thief River Falls, MN
Posts: 344
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get new gaskets too!
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12-09-2012, 12:09 AM
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#25 (permalink)
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Ben
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan
Posts: 108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kemo
get new gaskets too!
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Already have them.
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1998 zr 600 efi
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12-09-2012, 05:59 AM
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#26 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 17,319
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The Orings will be fine and the basegasket would be too, if it comes out in 1 piece, but many feel it safer to replace the base gasket every time!
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12-09-2012, 07:05 AM
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#27 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Central CT
Posts: 843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokingcrater
As far as I know, ALL manufacturers agree, never add oil to an EFI engine. The oil can gum up a fuel injector fairly quickly, they are meant for gas only.
Also,arctic cat efi sleds have a 'new engine break in' mode, but as far as I know, there is no way to trigger it short of a factory fresh ECU.
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What about adjusting the oil pump to deliver more oil for a tank's worth of fuel? Then, adjust it back...
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12-09-2012, 07:35 AM
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#28 (permalink)
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TRH- Troll Raising Hell
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Medina, MN
Posts: 6,006
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I had my cylinders honed with a ball hone. Just a quick deglazing. When assembling it, I had a turkey baster and prob. a good 4 cups of oil that went into the motor during rebuilt. Crank and bearings were heavily covered but not before the cases were sealed. Pistons, rings, bearings all heavily covered. Put head on, etc. and put more oil in the plug holes. Turned it over slowly by hand listening without plugs. Installed motor, fired up, killed all the mosquitoes with the smoke, and I was set.
__________________
Snow: The other white drug!
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12-09-2012, 12:11 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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Ben
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan
Posts: 108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kccats
The Orings will be fine and the basegasket would be too, if it comes out in 1 piece, but many feel it safer to replace the base gasket every time!
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I put a new base casket on when I did the pistons and rings, I would hope it isn't messed up already.
__________________
1998 zr 600 efi
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12-09-2012, 12:15 PM
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#30 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Thief River Falls, MN
Posts: 344
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gaskets are typically a 1 time use item.
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12-09-2012, 05:38 PM
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#31 (permalink)
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Ben
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan
Posts: 108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kemo
gaskets are typically a 1 time use item.
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I literally just put it together with a fresh gasket then took it apart...and it isn't the paper type of gasket.
__________________
1998 zr 600 efi
Last edited by ebaccm26; 12-09-2012 at 05:48 PM.
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12-09-2012, 05:50 PM
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#32 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Central CT
Posts: 843
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Still, that gasket may not re-seal again correctly. Think about it this way:
How much will it cost you to buy another gasket?
How much will it cost you to have to tear the whole thing down again if that gasket doesn't seal correctly and you end up with motor damage or a non-running condition?
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12-09-2012, 06:55 PM
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#33 (permalink)
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Ben
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan
Posts: 108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meburdick
Still, that gasket may not re-seal again correctly. Think about it this way:
How much will it cost you to buy another gasket?
How much will it cost you to have to tear the whole thing down again if that gasket doesn't seal correctly and you end up with motor damage or a non-running condition?
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Sorry I am new to this, I just don't understand how anything would have changed with the gasket, it is just a piece of plastic. I am not saying your wrong, I would just like to understand why it may not seal properly.
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1998 zr 600 efi
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12-09-2012, 07:43 PM
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#34 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Central CT
Posts: 843
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Many times, gaskets are designed to "squish" a certain way when they are installed. When that happens, they seat with the opposing pieces of metal to create a solid seal. If you try to reuse the gasket, they no longer "squish" and will not make that same perfect seal.
It's similar in concept to the crush washers used on many vehicles for the oil drain plugs. These are intended to be one-time use washers to create a perfect seal. Even though you can get them to work on subsequent uses, the seal is never as good. And, if you were dealing with enough pressure, it would leak.
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12-09-2012, 08:37 PM
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#35 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meburdick
What about adjusting the oil pump to deliver more oil for a tank's worth of fuel? Then, adjust it back...
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not a problem... (actually recommended!) The oil isn't fed in through the injectors in an EFI sled.
__________________
1) 2000 Arctic cat ZR 700, which now thinks it is a 2001 ZR 600 EFI APV w/136" ripsaw. (for sale!)
2) 1995 Yamaha VMAX 600, which now thinks it is a Polaris! (Polaris x10 suspension, Polaris P85 clutch) (for sale!)
3) 2004 Yamaha Warrior
4) 2006 Yamaha Nytro
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12-09-2012, 08:39 PM
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#36 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern Central CT
Posts: 843
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokingcrater
not a problem... (actually recommended!) The oil isn't fed in through the injectors in an EFI sled.
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Right... And that's why you don't pre-mix for break in on those. It sounds like the ECU is pre-programmed to increase the oil flow for the first 100 miles or so and then drop down to a more "normal" rate. If you could up the flow rate on the pump manually, you'd be achieving the exact same thing without all the computer programming.
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12-10-2012, 08:10 AM
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#37 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 289
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I have a 2011 f8 which is efi and my manual says to mix the first tank with 40:1premix. My dealer had the tank already full for me with the premix already in it. I have rebuilt several efi sled motors and have always ran atleast a couple of gallons of premix through them with not one problem. The fuel doesn't get thicker so to speak when you add the oil to the fuel. Fuel itself has molecules the same size as 2 cycle oil. You are talking microscopic if that. Finer than any filter on a snowmobile could catch by far. Not even the most sensative sensor would know if the fuel had oil in it or not.... on a snowmobile anyway's. Oh yeah... get new gaskets to.
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12-10-2012, 09:11 AM
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#38 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northern IL
Posts: 17,319
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The base gasket like I said is a judgement call! The way that you 'could premix' is to mix the oil in a can of gas then pour it in! It is MUCH easyier to just hook the oil pump with a coat hanger and lift it!
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12-14-2012, 06:15 PM
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#39 (permalink)
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Ben
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Hudsonville, Michigan
Posts: 108
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Finally got a chance to tear it back down, ordered some new gaskets but the circlips didn't come out well and I need to get some of those. The pistons I am using are SPI, where can I get some circlips that will work with them, will Wiseco circlips work?
Also earlier someone mentioned radiusing the ports, I am not sure if they did this when they honed it at the dealer or not. I will post a picture below of what my ports look like, if someone could tell me if those are good or not that would be appreciated.
__________________
1998 zr 600 efi
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12-14-2012, 06:36 PM
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#40 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 289
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The ports look to be chamfered just fine. I'll be honest the noise I heard in the second video sounds like piston slap. Are you sure the pistons that came out of it weren't over sized? I assume you bought standard size pistons? I helped a friend out with an older polaris indy 440 trail. He rebuilt the topend and had major trouble getting it to run and his engine was making the exact same noise. Long story short, we disassembled the engine and I started measuring pistons and cylinders and come to fine out the cylinders were bored .010 over and he bought standard size pistons for it because he said the cylinders looked ok and just assumed it had never been bored. In your case the cylinders are plated but that doesn't mean it was never bored and replated at one time though. Make sure they are the right pistons for the right engine to.
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