Sled deck - home built - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum
User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-13-2011, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Sled deck - home built

Here's some pic's of a deck I built. I can't take credit for the original design. I got the idea from this thread:
http://www.snowmobileforum.com/gener...my-pickup.html
I've made a few mod's to the original design & figured it is worth starting a new thread on.

My box size is 6.5'. The deck is abot 8.5' long, and the ramps are 10' long. With a 154 length sled, the ramps do not stick out beyond the sled itself. It works very well, with all the components easily removed by myself. I can have the whole deck in or out in a couple minutes. The back part of the deck flips up, and the tailgate closes - as per the original design (from Dobbs - link above).

I'll add some details on parts etc later.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010022.JPG
Views:	10766
Size:	90.3 KB
ID:	17972   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010023.jpg
Views:	8689
Size:	74.7 KB
ID:	17973   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010033.jpg
Views:	11010
Size:	77.3 KB
ID:	17974   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010028.jpg
Views:	5650
Size:	84.9 KB
ID:	17975   Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010031.jpg
Views:	9367
Size:	76.9 KB
ID:	17976  

stumpjump is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 07:51 AM
Super Moderator
 
RJ Gleason's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Groton NY
Posts: 33,299
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Nice, like the use of the quick lock tie downs too.

Old Cat Rider
'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

http://www.dcdrifters.net/

Worshipful Master; F&AM Dryden Lodge# 472
http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

Rules of this forum are strictly enforced!
RJ Gleason is offline  
post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 09:18 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Calgary AB
Posts: 158
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Brilliant!
Highfly is offline  
post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 11:16 AM
Registered User
 
rgoers's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Northern Utah
Posts: 3,512
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Nice job! Bet that really saves your back...

2004 Polaris Trail RMK 136
1997 Ski Doo Summit 500
2000 Arctic Cat ZL550 ESR (in NY)
2000 Arctic Cat 440 Panther (sold)
1980 Arctic Cat Jag 3000 F/C (in NY)

"If it ain't broke, take it apart and find out why!"
rgoers is offline  
post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 11:57 AM
Registered User
 
Michigan Brian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Dearborn, Mi
Posts: 197
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
you did a real nice job on that!

How much do you figure you have into it?

My setup is quite different, I wont be changing it, but I do like yours

1994 Polaris Indy 500 Classic Touring
2 up, EFI, Liquid Cooled, Reverse, Studded Track

1996 Arctic Cat Z440
Michigan Brian is offline  
post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 12:52 PM
Registered User
 
polymoog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Sweden
Posts: 485
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Great job

My Homepage : Motorsports Pics, mostly from northern Sweden
My Sleds :
1990 Arctic Cat Jag 440 AFS / 2002 Arctic Cat Mountain Cat 600 EFI
polymoog is offline  
post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michigan Brian View Post
you did a real nice job on that!

How much do you figure you have into it?

My setup is quite different, I wont be changing it, but I do like yours
Not including the superclamps I think I spent between $300 to $400.
2 gallons of marine enamel paint alone was about $80

I'll put together a list of materials & a drawing when I have time (over xmas?) but it is pretty much the same as Dobbs original design (link above) with a few mod's. The big differences are that both the ramps (& the deck) are longer, and it is easy to setup / store the ramps.

Note the length of 1/2" 316SS Sch 40 pipe (~0.8" OD). It has the dual purpose of retaining the ramps when stored, and supporting the top end of the ramps when in loading position. The quick pins on the end of the pipe allow for quick removal. The slots on the back of the deck allow for quick placement / removal of the pipe when setting up for loading.

The "hooks" on the ramp are SS plate (I'll post the dim's later) - which have to
be low profile, so you can still lift the ramps off when the sled is sitting above. Where bolts protrude through the deck (eyebolts for turnbuckles + ubolts for clamps) care must be taken to not interfere with ramps as they slide in for storage.
stumpjump is offline  
post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 05:32 PM
Rick
 
indyryder500's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Upper Michigan
Posts: 3,070
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
300-400? you could have gotten a trailer for that much! but that looks good.

97 ultra spx slp can geared clutch and 144 studs.(mine)
96 XLT studded with reverse(12y/o son)
98 xcf 440 (wifes sled)
96 puma 340 elec start(kids sled)
96 cougar 550 2up bone stock (sold)
96 XCR 440 clutched (sold)
92 indy 500 bored,clutched. piped(sold)
85 indy 400 (11 y/o son's sled)(sold)
87 yamaha excel 340 (parting out)(sold)


2011/2012 miles :00000000
indyryder500 is offline  
post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 06:22 PM
Registered User
 
Michigan Brian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Dearborn, Mi
Posts: 197
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by indyryder500 View Post
300-400? you could have gotten a trailer for that much! but that looks good.
maybe he doesnt want a trailer.

When I had one sled I did not want one. I used my truck.

No room for a trailer at my house.

Did not want to mess with extra tires, lights, maintenence, etc.

1994 Polaris Indy 500 Classic Touring
2 up, EFI, Liquid Cooled, Reverse, Studded Track

1996 Arctic Cat Z440
Michigan Brian is offline  
post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-15-2011, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michigan Brian View Post
maybe he doesnt want a trailer.

When I had one sled I did not want one. I used my truck.

No room for a trailer at my house.

Did not want to mess with extra tires, lights, maintenence, etc.
Pretty much my thought process ...

I have a trailer - The sled gets dirty / sand blasted driving down the road. Also you can not (easily) get up the loggin roads where we usually go. Turning the trailer around on a narrow road is also a pain. Compared to a new aluminum single sled deck, this deck is cheap (typically 2k for most types of deck which fit in the box - and this deck is better for many things - but there's always pro's & cons)

As far a price - you can scrouge a lot / go with cheap paint, etc - all depends on personal taste & budget.
stumpjump is offline  
post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 07:35 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Maine
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
How long did it take you to build?
Jotch is offline  
post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-06-2012, 08:36 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: pa
Posts: 70
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
nice set up.

1978 Arctic Cat Pantera (the "CAT"illac)
1994 Polaris XLT 580, xtra 10 swap.
1999 Arctic Cat ZRT600
2001 Arctic Cat ZL600 SS
polarbag85 is offline  
post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-07-2012, 08:47 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 101
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
That is a very nice setup. If I decide to load in my truck anymore I will duplicate this for sure.

96 and 97 Indy Trail Tourings
jcmathis is offline  
post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-07-2012, 09:34 PM
Break out the duct tape..
 
98yota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: California
Posts: 570
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
You did a great job on this! I might try to duplicate this on my truck, beats towing a trailer on crappy roads!



1980 Arctic Cat Panther 440 F/C
(2014 November Sled of the Month)

2011-2012 Mileage: 170
2012-2013 Mileage: 40
2013-2014 Mileage: 0
2014-2015 Mileage: 0
98yota is offline  
post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-09-2012, 09:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Maine
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Any update on dims and such? I am going to be building one next weekend, any input is appreciated.
Jotch is offline  
post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-09-2012, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jotch View Post
Any update on dims and such? I am going to be building one next weekend, any input is appreciated.
You've got me motivated - I'll post something shortly.

I'm thinking you won't finish it in a weekend, primarily because of the painting - particularly if you do 3 coats like I did.
stumpjump is offline  
post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-09-2012, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
This deck fits a ford F150 mid size (6’-6”) box. The inside of the box is 78 ½” long and it is 8’ 8 ½” from the back of the box to the end of the tailgate. The deck overhangs by ½”. All dimensions taken with a bed liner installed.

The Ύ” overhang @ the side of the ramp (1’-8 Ύ” to 1’ 9 ½”) allows for the ramps to be spread apart slightly for more ramp width – not totally necessary.

Keep eyebolts as high as possible on the sides of the deck – or else the nuts on the inside will interfere with the ramps as they slide in/out.

Notch / hole detail – consider using a hole for the “notch” location as well – The bit of wood on the left hand side of the notch broke on my deck – this piece is now screwed & glued. The notch is more convenient than a hole, but would not be a big deal to push the pipe through from the side.

I used a ½” Schedule 40 stainless pipe ~0.8” O.D. for “hanging” the ramps off the end of the deck. It also serves to hold the ramps in when stored under the deck. The pipe can be bought from most machine shops, & also likely from hardware stores if your not fussy about stainless. The quick clips on the ends of the pipe can be bought at any automotive store (used on trailer hitches).

The angle bracket for hooking the ramps onto the pipe is 3/32” 316SS plate 3” x 8”, plus 1” for the 90° angle (3” x 9” prior to bending).

NOTE – it is sometimes a little tight to get the ramp angle brackets over the pipe when the sled is on the deck – the track/lugs prevent lifting the ramps high enough to get over the bar. You could lower the notch a little if this bothers you. I usually just shove / jank and the lugs do bend. You might also make the 1” section a little shorter.

I bought an old bed liner ($20 at local ford dealer) for slides and traction, as others have done.

I have this drawing in AutoCAD format which I can supply if anyone can use it as well.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Deck 1.pdf (6.4 KB, 393 views)
File Type: pdf Deck 2.pdf (7.6 KB, 258 views)
File Type: pdf Notch detail.pdf (10.7 KB, 251 views)
File Type: pdf Ramp 1.pdf (8.9 KB, 295 views)
stumpjump is offline  
post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-09-2012, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I noticed that I did not detail the actual location of the additional 2x4 cross blocking on the ramps, but there should be 2 additional cross blocks as shown on the side view - exact location of the mid block may not matter, but put one block right behind the stainless brackets at the top of the ramps.

Additional materials required.:
4 ea 2x6 - 8' (3 deck rails + one required for end block)
4 ea 2x4 - 10' (4 ramp rails)
1 ea 2x4 - 8' (required for blocking)

2 sheets 3/4" plywood

8 ea 3/8" bolts + fender (large dia) washers for SS brackets
4 ea 3/8" eyebolts
4 ea 3/8" x ?? turnbuckles (8" to 10" long roughly)
(As required) 3/8" nuts
(Lots) Pan head screws (#10) for slides

I used 2 gallons of marine enamel paint - primarily because my buddy at the hardware store convinced me that this was the way to go to keep it sealed / protected from water logging for a good long time - we live on the "wet west coast"

Last edited by stumpjump; 01-09-2012 at 10:17 PM.
stumpjump is offline  
post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-10-2012, 07:17 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Maine
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Thanks for the update!

I just got rid of my trailer, it needed more work than it would be to build a ramp. I dont think I am going to end up painting it this weekend, just fabrication.
Jotch is offline  
post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 01-11-2012, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jotch View Post
Thanks for the update!

I just got rid of my trailer, it needed more work than it would be to build a ramp. I dont think I am going to end up painting it this weekend, just fabrication.
I recommend that you screw & glue the ramps well. Use a good glue like PL Premium.

Time wise, every bit adds up. Just cutting the old bed liner up and screwing it down took a while. Prepping / drilling the pipe, installing hardware - it all takes time, but is worth it in the end.

I spent some time sealing the ends of the plywood as well, that is where a lot of moisture invasion / swelling can occur. Caulking &/or extra coats of paint works for this.

I also sprinkled some sand over the top layer of paint for a little grip.
stumpjump is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome