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Old 12-13-2011, 09:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Sled deck - home built

Here's some pic's of a deck I built. I can't take credit for the original design. I got the idea from this thread:
http://www.snowmobileforum.com/gener...my-pickup.html
I've made a few mod's to the original design & figured it is worth starting a new thread on.

My box size is 6.5'. The deck is abot 8.5' long, and the ramps are 10' long. With a 154 length sled, the ramps do not stick out beyond the sled itself. It works very well, with all the components easily removed by myself. I can have the whole deck in or out in a couple minutes. The back part of the deck flips up, and the tailgate closes - as per the original design (from Dobbs - link above).

I'll add some details on parts etc later.
Attached Thumbnails
Sled deck - home built-p1010022.jpg   Sled deck - home built-p1010023.jpg   Sled deck - home built-p1010033.jpg   Sled deck - home built-p1010028.jpg   Sled deck - home built-p1010031.jpg  

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Old 12-14-2011, 07:51 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Nice, like the use of the quick lock tie downs too.
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Old 12-14-2011, 09:18 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Brilliant!
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Old 12-14-2011, 11:16 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Nice job! Bet that really saves your back...
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Old 12-14-2011, 11:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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you did a real nice job on that!

How much do you figure you have into it?

My setup is quite different, I wont be changing it, but I do like yours
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Great job
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Old 12-14-2011, 02:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michigan Brian View Post
you did a real nice job on that!

How much do you figure you have into it?

My setup is quite different, I wont be changing it, but I do like yours
Not including the superclamps I think I spent between $300 to $400.
2 gallons of marine enamel paint alone was about $80

I'll put together a list of materials & a drawing when I have time (over xmas?) but it is pretty much the same as Dobbs original design (link above) with a few mod's. The big differences are that both the ramps (& the deck) are longer, and it is easy to setup / store the ramps.

Note the length of 1/2" 316SS Sch 40 pipe (~0.8" OD). It has the dual purpose of retaining the ramps when stored, and supporting the top end of the ramps when in loading position. The quick pins on the end of the pipe allow for quick removal. The slots on the back of the deck allow for quick placement / removal of the pipe when setting up for loading.

The "hooks" on the ramp are SS plate (I'll post the dim's later) - which have to
be low profile, so you can still lift the ramps off when the sled is sitting above. Where bolts protrude through the deck (eyebolts for turnbuckles + ubolts for clamps) care must be taken to not interfere with ramps as they slide in for storage.
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Old 12-15-2011, 05:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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300-400? you could have gotten a trailer for that much! but that looks good.
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Old 12-15-2011, 06:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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300-400? you could have gotten a trailer for that much! but that looks good.
maybe he doesnt want a trailer.

When I had one sled I did not want one. I used my truck.

No room for a trailer at my house.

Did not want to mess with extra tires, lights, maintenence, etc.
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Old 12-15-2011, 10:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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maybe he doesnt want a trailer.

When I had one sled I did not want one. I used my truck.

No room for a trailer at my house.

Did not want to mess with extra tires, lights, maintenence, etc.
Pretty much my thought process ...

I have a trailer - The sled gets dirty / sand blasted driving down the road. Also you can not (easily) get up the loggin roads where we usually go. Turning the trailer around on a narrow road is also a pain. Compared to a new aluminum single sled deck, this deck is cheap (typically 2k for most types of deck which fit in the box - and this deck is better for many things - but there's always pro's & cons)

As far a price - you can scrouge a lot / go with cheap paint, etc - all depends on personal taste & budget.
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:35 AM   #11 (permalink)
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How long did it take you to build?
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:36 AM   #12 (permalink)
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nice set up.
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:47 PM   #13 (permalink)
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That is a very nice setup. If I decide to load in my truck anymore I will duplicate this for sure.
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:34 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You did a great job on this! I might try to duplicate this on my truck, beats towing a trailer on crappy roads!
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:53 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Any update on dims and such? I am going to be building one next weekend, any input is appreciated.
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:39 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Any update on dims and such? I am going to be building one next weekend, any input is appreciated.
You've got me motivated - I'll post something shortly.

I'm thinking you won't finish it in a weekend, primarily because of the painting - particularly if you do 3 coats like I did.
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:48 PM   #17 (permalink)
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This deck fits a ford F150 mid size (6’-6”) box. The inside of the box is 78 ½” long and it is 8’ 8 ½” from the back of the box to the end of the tailgate. The deck overhangs by ½”. All dimensions taken with a bed liner installed.

The Ύ” overhang @ the side of the ramp (1’-8 Ύ” to 1’ 9 ½”) allows for the ramps to be spread apart slightly for more ramp width – not totally necessary.

Keep eyebolts as high as possible on the sides of the deck – or else the nuts on the inside will interfere with the ramps as they slide in/out.

Notch / hole detail – consider using a hole for the “notch” location as well – The bit of wood on the left hand side of the notch broke on my deck – this piece is now screwed & glued. The notch is more convenient than a hole, but would not be a big deal to push the pipe through from the side.

I used a ½” Schedule 40 stainless pipe ~0.8” O.D. for “hanging” the ramps off the end of the deck. It also serves to hold the ramps in when stored under the deck. The pipe can be bought from most machine shops, & also likely from hardware stores if your not fussy about stainless. The quick clips on the ends of the pipe can be bought at any automotive store (used on trailer hitches).

The angle bracket for hooking the ramps onto the pipe is 3/32” 316SS plate 3” x 8”, plus 1” for the 90° angle (3” x 9” prior to bending).

NOTE – it is sometimes a little tight to get the ramp angle brackets over the pipe when the sled is on the deck – the track/lugs prevent lifting the ramps high enough to get over the bar. You could lower the notch a little if this bothers you. I usually just shove / jank and the lugs do bend. You might also make the 1” section a little shorter.

I bought an old bed liner ($20 at local ford dealer) for slides and traction, as others have done.

I have this drawing in AutoCAD format which I can supply if anyone can use it as well.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Deck 1.pdf (6.4 KB, 244 views)
File Type: pdf Deck 2.pdf (7.6 KB, 149 views)
File Type: pdf Notch detail.pdf (10.7 KB, 155 views)
File Type: pdf Ramp 1.pdf (8.9 KB, 177 views)
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Old 01-09-2012, 10:07 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I noticed that I did not detail the actual location of the additional 2x4 cross blocking on the ramps, but there should be 2 additional cross blocks as shown on the side view - exact location of the mid block may not matter, but put one block right behind the stainless brackets at the top of the ramps.

Additional materials required.:
4 ea 2x6 - 8' (3 deck rails + one required for end block)
4 ea 2x4 - 10' (4 ramp rails)
1 ea 2x4 - 8' (required for blocking)

2 sheets 3/4" plywood

8 ea 3/8" bolts + fender (large dia) washers for SS brackets
4 ea 3/8" eyebolts
4 ea 3/8" x ?? turnbuckles (8" to 10" long roughly)
(As required) 3/8" nuts
(Lots) Pan head screws (#10) for slides

I used 2 gallons of marine enamel paint - primarily because my buddy at the hardware store convinced me that this was the way to go to keep it sealed / protected from water logging for a good long time - we live on the "wet west coast"

Last edited by stumpjump; 01-09-2012 at 10:17 PM.
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Old 01-10-2012, 07:17 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Thanks for the update!

I just got rid of my trailer, it needed more work than it would be to build a ramp. I dont think I am going to end up painting it this weekend, just fabrication.
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Old 01-11-2012, 12:48 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Thanks for the update!

I just got rid of my trailer, it needed more work than it would be to build a ramp. I dont think I am going to end up painting it this weekend, just fabrication.
I recommend that you screw & glue the ramps well. Use a good glue like PL Premium.

Time wise, every bit adds up. Just cutting the old bed liner up and screwing it down took a while. Prepping / drilling the pipe, installing hardware - it all takes time, but is worth it in the end.

I spent some time sealing the ends of the plywood as well, that is where a lot of moisture invasion / swelling can occur. Caulking &/or extra coats of paint works for this.

I also sprinkled some sand over the top layer of paint for a little grip.
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