Help!! Recoil starting makes sled lurch and hard start! - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

coloradoman25 · 01-21-2008, 11:14 PM

Ok so we rode a ton this weekend but my wifes sled has an interesting issue,,,,If you open it up and run it out and let off the throttle it dies. Then you go to restart and the track (and sled) lurches forward as you pull the recoil over.

Move the belt around a bit manually and itll start but after running it out it goes back to the same problem.

It will pretty much start up in the am without going forward and will stay in idle. But as soon as it gets some use, the problem starts. I am thinking its the spring in the secondary weakening once its warm or flexed..

Tried 3 different belts and cannot get a fix. Measured the clutch openings and they seem to match my sled but the belt is really far down in the secondary....Does this sound like a bad clutch.or spring? I have no idea where to start!

Appreciate all the help!!!

Chris

ac bigbore · 01-22-2008, 12:36 AM

Had the same problem with my 92 Wildcat 700- It was the primary
clutch bushing on the movable sheave. It was worn and sliding out and holding the clutch in a partial engaged position. It did exactly what yours is doing. Bad news is you have to spin off the spider to replace the bushing. I used locktite on the new bushing and it has stayed in place. Check your clutch and see
if a little bit of bushing is sticking out of your movable sheave.

coloradoman25 · 01-22-2008, 12:43 AM

any idea how many labor hours on a job like that? I have never done much with clutches...

kccats · 01-22-2008, 06:36 AM

You might be better off replacing the clutch with a 108 exp? But first try taking the cover bolts out , very carefully. They are under presure! (with belt off) And look at the center bushing as well as the arms and see what it is that is wrong?
To get the clutch off you will need the correct clutch puller bolt! What sled is this anyway?

**smallengineguy** · 01-22-2008, 07:10 AM

Pretty easy to rebuild, not much to them.

coloradoman25 · 01-22-2008, 11:53 AM

99 powder special. I will try to get some of that done tonight I will have to buy the clutch tool though.

coloradoman25 · 01-22-2008, 11:54 AM

How much labor is involved in a job like this I may just take it in. I start tournaments shortly and work a 40 hour job plus running my own business I no longer have the time I had earlier in the year.

BC_Dan · 01-22-2008, 12:25 PM

I agree about the clutch being the problem. I had a similar issue with a 1995 ZR 580, one of the weights was worn and the roller had a flat side. When the clutch would engage, the roller was hanging up the sheaves, not allowing it to open completely.

To do one clutch, it may be cheaper to take it in and have it rebuilt. You will need a clutch holding fixture and some special tools to remove the spider locking nut and spider. The nut is on there with some pretty good force, it's nice to have a 1" breaker bar and a cheater handle to break it free.

tamacat · 01-22-2008, 12:32 PM

That could happen with a broken clutch spring to maybe?

Something else to check.

coloradoman25 · 01-22-2008, 01:07 PM

The main clutch spring is new and I am alomst positive its good the secondary spring as a rather odd tone when tapped so there may eb a carck I cannot see but I think most likely I will take it in its just too much hassle for me right now and honestly I dont have the time or ambition to work on any more lol

tamacat · 01-22-2008, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coloradoman25

The main clutch spring is new and I am alomst positive its good the secondary spring as a rather odd tone when tapped so there may eb a carck I cannot see but I think most likely I will take it in its just too much hassle for me right now and honestly I dont have the time or ambition to work on any more lol

The secondary is the one I was refering to. Try to push in and turn clockwise on your secondary clutch where it bolts to the sled. If it pushes in easily you might have a bum spring.

coloradoman25 · 01-22-2008, 03:12 PM

Ill ck it out tonight thanks!!

BC_Dan · 01-22-2008, 03:14 PM

If it's the secondary spring, the engine wouldn't be trying to make the sled creep forward. Something is binding the primary. If the belt is way down in the secondary, is it also way up in the primary? Usually, the belt only goes into the secondary how ever much the primary pulls it.

You could have two issues, though.

coloradoman25 · 01-22-2008, 07:04 PM

Well I can get it to start and when running I can ride all day and would know nothing was wrong same snap same performance just a problem when ya let off the throttle. I will look into a few things later and report back I am still at work here.

coloradoman25 · 01-22-2008, 07:05 PM

and FWIW if the secondary spring was bad and wont properly return after a hard throttled run would it not keep the belt further down in the clutch? Thus creating drag on the primary clutch. Once I pull the belt up and out further from the secondary it was allowing me to start the sled normally.

BC_Dan · 01-22-2008, 11:28 PM

If the secondary sticks the belt in the sheaves, it would create less drag on the primary (if the primary is operating properly). That is how you take the belt off... you open the sheaves and the belt in the secondary drops enough to allow the belt to be able to be taken off the secondary. There will be a TON of deflection and corresponding slack with a secondary spring not working correctly. Grabbing the belt at idle has to mean that the primary is pulling the belt, therefore the primary is not letting go like it should. There are not many things that can go wrong, bushings like ACBigbore stated, can bind and not let the clutch release, weights/rollers can do the same thing. If it's creeping, look at the primary first.