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11-18-2007, 07:22 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Know-it-all hooligan
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Nome, Alaska
Posts: 198
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I don't even know what it means to "sync" carbs...
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by RedRider_AK
If any of my friends heard me say that, they'd call me Gramps or something
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by IndianRvrShiver
That line should be in your sig!!
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11-18-2007, 07:30 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 200
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I have always sunk mine by throwin em in the lake
Seriously, though, I just pull em out and eyeball them.
Like to see the slides start up the same time.
Get that much right and usually they will be pretty even
all the way up. There. Sunk. Or pretty darned close.
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11-18-2007, 08:55 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 277
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synchronize the carbs, make them both open at the same time so the both do the same ammout of work. This device measures airflow. you put it on the carb and adjust the adjuster on the throttle cable on each carb to they both suck the same ammount of air at the same rpm.
I just noticed that you put a line and an explination. I thought that way your sig.. lol..
you just eyeball them.. like watch when one starts lifting that they both lift about the same time.
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11-18-2007, 09:10 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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wanna bee sleder
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Maine
Posts: 266
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I was having carb issues when i first came into this forum and did what i was told on how to remove and clean. What I did knowing they had to be open the same distance was used a set of feeler gauges under each slide assembly making sure the gap was the same in both carbs. I didn't even know their was a tool that did that seeing i am learning sleds myself. I am sure feeler gauges are cheaper tho. 
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1995 mach 1 670
1985 Pontiac fire bird 305 with a little extra
Drive it like ya stole it!
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11-18-2007, 10:06 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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I am Spartacus
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Milton Mills, NH
Posts: 15,403
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I use the Edelbrock carb sync tool. Used it for year, it's the BEST one I can find.
__________________
1992 Ski Doo Mach 1 (SC-10/2 suspended) March '07 SF.com Sled of the Month!
1993 Ski Doo Mach Z 780 triple
2001 Ski Doo Mini Z
Evergreen Valley Snowmobile Club Webmaster
If I'm not home, CHECK THE TRAILS!
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11-18-2007, 11:12 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Clio, Michigan
Posts: 375
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11-19-2007, 01:06 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 277
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so the one I bought will work..
does anyone have any instructions for this?.. Thanks
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11-19-2007, 03:38 AM
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#12 (permalink)
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Mountain Man
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Vernal Utah
Posts: 235
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I've never seen that type. Ive always used the old mercury vacuum type how does it hook up?
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As Red Green says "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." Mike
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11-19-2007, 06:53 AM
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#13 (permalink)
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I am Spartacus
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Milton Mills, NH
Posts: 15,403
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You put it over the intake and look at the plastic ball in the glass tube. You adjust idle screw until it's in the same place on all carbs.
__________________
1992 Ski Doo Mach 1 (SC-10/2 suspended) March '07 SF.com Sled of the Month!
1993 Ski Doo Mach Z 780 triple
2001 Ski Doo Mini Z
Evergreen Valley Snowmobile Club Webmaster
If I'm not home, CHECK THE TRAILS!
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11-19-2007, 09:35 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 200
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Slide height vs vacuum balancing 2 strokes
In a 2 stroke with tuned pipes, especially if separate pipes,
I would find it very unlikely that the flow would be uniform
throughout the throttle range. So many variables. Different
cylinder temps, different pipe temps giving different pipe
signals, possible different reed responsiveness, different
plug conditions. I would think that in the real world, setting
2 stroke carbs by slide position would be quite adequate.
If those of you with the vacuum gauges have actually verified
on a loaded condition (on a dyno) that the vacuum stays
equal through out load range and rpms, and changes in operating
conditions, then tell me I'm full of cxxx.
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11-19-2007, 10:13 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 277
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I am sure you are right. but for $15 I feel like its worth it. the closer you can get them, the closer they will stay even with all those variables. If its nutz off at idle then you know its going to be all over the place at all speeds, atlease if you can sync them at idle and low rpm you know that your good part of the time. I would not have paid $100 for this service, but $15 I will do.
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11-19-2007, 10:27 AM
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#16 (permalink)
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King of the Universe
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rochester Hizzle, MI
Posts: 6,188
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by ENR_Kyle20
......I noticed the vac ports on the carbs..but the must produce almost no vac..
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Vac ports on the carbs!!??  Those are prolly primer ports/nipples. If they're not being used, plug/cap them!!
__________________
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2003 AC F5 (Jr's Dec 07 SOTM & 2008 SOTY)
2003 AC F7 EFI SP (April 06 SOTM)
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11-19-2007, 12:40 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 277
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the nipple I was talkin about is and always has been capped, i am not posartive what they are for but after seeing that link about how to do it on a bike I just assumed that is what it was for, but there is also a small tube on each carb that goes into the air box. Maybe its not vac, but im sure a measurable ammount of vac can be found there?.. What exactly are those lines for? and I assume they should be hooked up to the air box not caped?
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11-19-2007, 01:08 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 200
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lets take this thread to the next level
OK- you synch the carbs at some point in the throttle
range, hopefully with the engine and pipes at operating
temp. Doesn't matter how you did it.
Now what if I tell you that even if the slides are in exactly
the same position at 1/4 throttle, they may be off at full
throttle? It happens, especially if the carbs are run off
cable with a splitter, rather than on a rack system. The 2 cables
coming off the splitter are on a t-bar that runs up and down a track. Does this cheap plastic t-bar stay perfectly even throughout the pull range? Do the 2 cables have the same
clearance in the housings? Something gives in this system
because I have had 2 carbs start out at exactly the same time
on the throttle pull, but end up about 1/8 off at the top.
So where do you synch it? At the top or bottom? If you are
off by 1/8 at the bottom, thats a lot. Considering the bleed
circuits, its probably a 75% difference if one slide is at
1/8 throttle and the other is at idle screw stop.
At full throttle 1/8 is about 12 % difference. Not enough to
worry about unless you are drag racing and inches over the
course of the run mean winning or losing.
Thats why I said in my initial response in this thread that
synch them so they start out together, and you are going to
be as good as you probably need, and maybe about as good
as you are going to get.
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11-20-2007, 02:22 AM
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#19 (permalink)
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ride old school
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: coon rapids, minnesota
Posts: 139
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i actually own a sync tool but have never even taken it out of the box. i find that the simplest method is the best and that for me is a good clean finger on the slides and my eyeball. set the clips the same and just go from there fine tuning until you have equal lift,drop, slack(about 1/8 inch)and idle adj.
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11-25-2007, 10:19 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 277
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yea, it was kinda a waste of money, but I got someone to agree to go halfs with me.. so its only $10.. and I can make sure the idle screw is set the same on both carbs.. not a bad deal!
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