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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Sled not getting fuel

Hi,

I have a 2006 370 arctic cat panther that i got last year that has not been running for 7 years. There's less than a 1000 kms on it. I have taken the carb apart and cleaned it, taken the chain case apart cleaned everything and put it back together, greased everything, drained all fuel and replaced the fuel line inside the tank as well as the strainer, new fuel filter, new vent for the tank, added 1/2 tank of gas and then I tried to start the sled. It wouldn't start. There is no fuel getting to the fuel pump. I disconnected the fuel line and sucked the fuel through and re attached it to the pump. Still won't start. I then replaced the fuel pump and same thing. Still won't start. No fuel getting to the pump. I'm totally stumped as what it could be. What if I filled the tank with gas, would that make a difference as now it is only half full. Also, I did not hook the battery up to the sled as I don't really need it, however, would that have something to do with the issue.

Thanks,

Ryan
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 09:40 PM
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OK do you have spark?
What happens if you dribble a bit of gas into the plug holes?
Find the vent hose on the clutch side of the cross bar.
Take the hose from the carb off.
Then blow into the vent hose until the gas comes out the carb end?
If nothing but air comes out, then the fuel pick up is off!
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Hi

Yes I have spark and if I dribble a bit of gas in the plug holes the engine seems like it wants to start. I'll try blowing in the vent line to see what happens.


Thanks,

Ryan
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 07:31 AM Thread Starter
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I just disconnected the fuel line on the carb and blew through the vent line and fuel came out the line that connects to the carb. So the pickup line must be connected.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 12:42 PM
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Put the end of the fuel line into a clear container and pull the rope a few times to see if fuel comes out. You should get a bit each time. You may have a plugged impulse line that is not allowing the pressure/vacuum pulse to get to the fuel pump diaphragm.

2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, Really OLD AC Cheetah

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 01:08 PM
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Did you replace the impulse line? The line that goes from the fuel pump to the engine block.

1996 Arctic Cat Puma 2-Up 340
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Hey,
Yeah I took the fuel line off of the carb and pulled the cord a few times and fuel would come out of the line. I also sprayed carb cleaner in the carb and tried to start it. It started for a second or two and then shut off. However, no I didn't replace the impulse line. I will check that next.

Thanks guys,

Ryan
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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I just pulled the impulse line off and it seemed fine. No blockages or holes.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 08:09 PM
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Blow some air into the hose from the fuel pump side to make sure there's no blockage in the crankcase...

2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, Really OLD AC Cheetah

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Hey,
So I disassembled the carb again just to make sure everything was good when I previously put it back together. Everything was fine. I blew air through the impulse line to the crankcase and air is blowing through. Still nothing. To me it seems like the fuel pump, even though I replaced the old one with a new one. Maybe the new one is pooched as well. Haha. I'm totally lost on where to go next.

Thanks,

Ryan
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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 03:16 PM
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Did you blow air into the vent lines to the gas tank?


The idea is to pressurize the gas tank and force fuel into the fuel pump and carbs. The fuel pump doesn't work very well when it is dry.

When you pulled the carbs apart, was there fuel in the float bowls?

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1996 Skidoo Touring E 380F (sister's)
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 03:27 PM
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PS. Understanding how this all works together.

The fuel pump is there to fill the float bowls. The motor actually runs on the fuel in the float bowls. If the bowls are full, even with the fuel shut off, it will start and run for about 15 minutes.

By pressurizing the tank, you are forcing fuel through the fuel pump and into the carb bowl(s). Once the bowls are full, the needle valve will shut off and not allow anymore fuel through. At this point, you should be able to start the motor.

If after 5-6 pulls it doesn't even fire, pull the spark plugs and see if they are dry or wet. If they are wet, it is flooded and you are getting plenty of fuel. If they are dry, put about a teaspoon of gas down each hole and put the plugs back in. Does it fire?

If not, you have an ignition or compression problem.

2015 Skidoo Renegade BC 600 Etec
1996 Skidoo Touring E 380F (sister's)
1995 Skidoo Summit 583 LQ
1985 Skidoo Tundra 250F
1999 Arctic Cat Jag 340F
1999 Arctic Cat Z 370F (son's) - needs track

Currently working on:
Kiddy Caboose - older Nila sled.
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 04:33 PM Thread Starter
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Hi
Yeah I blew fuel through the lines from the gas tank vent line with the fuel line disconnected from the carb. However when the fuel line is connected to the carb I am unable to blow fuel to the carb. When I took the carb off last night there was no fuel in the bowl. However the first time I took it off and cleaned it up it had fuel in it.
Also, are you suggesting I take the carb off and manually fill the bowl with fuel and install it again and start the sled. Just not sure if that's what you were saying.

Thanks,
Ryan
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 05:17 PM
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Sounds like you put something back together wrong. Start with the needle and seat and make sure you can get fuel into the carb.

With it connected, it should take about 5-10 seconds to fill the carb when you are blowing into the vent hoses. If it isn't, then the needle is stopping it and that usually means the needle is pushing against the seat. Something must be pushing it.

If you take the carb off again, with it right-side up, try blowing into the fuel inlet. If you can't, then the needle is closed. If you can, turn the carb upside-down and try again, you should not be able to blow into the fuel inlet.

My guess is the float adjustment is way off. Maybe you turned the Float Arm upside down? Very common mistake.

2015 Skidoo Renegade BC 600 Etec
1996 Skidoo Touring E 380F (sister's)
1995 Skidoo Summit 583 LQ
1985 Skidoo Tundra 250F
1999 Arctic Cat Jag 340F
1999 Arctic Cat Z 370F (son's) - needs track

Currently working on:
Kiddy Caboose - older Nila sled.
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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got it working. I took the carb apart again to see if the float arm was upside down...it wasn't, however the tang that hits the needle was bent so I pushed it back to level and put it back together and it started after only a couple of pulls...I can't believe that was what was giving me all this trouble.

Thanks everyone for all the help,

Ryan
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RLG84 View Post
Finally got it working. I took the carb apart again to see if the float arm was upside down...it wasn't, however the tang that hits the needle was bent so I pushed it back to level and put it back together and it started after only a couple of pulls...I can't believe that was what was giving me all this trouble.

Thanks everyone for all the help,

Ryan
Glad to see you got it fixed I suffered with the same issue at the start of the season with mine and a buddies sled, was very frustrating to say the least...
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 10:33 AM
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Sounds like the float on the carb needs to be cleaned and checked!
I feel like a recording here lol.
Take the bowl off and clean the carb, remove all the jets including the pilot jet(up the tube)
Then with a piece of fuel hose attached to the inlet, blow (with your mouth) in to the hose,
and raise the float till it shuts off the flow of air. (this is your float 'level'
It should shut off as the float becomes 'level' with the carb body!
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 05:05 PM
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Been there, done that. Just takes one small item to really throw things off. Glad you got it sorted out.

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