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2007 Polaris IQ CFI idle

6K views 22 replies 6 participants last post by  Jcarlson24 
#1 ·
Got the fist snowfall here I'm my area of Wisconsin, about 4.5in and I took out my new to me sled for its very first ride.. just installed new intake boots due to the old ones being recalled and ruined. After the sled was all warmed up, it had a pretty bad hanging idle. This happened during the summer right when I bought it but after I installed the new part I thought it would for sure go away.. after some time it will sometimes recover to idle but 9 times out of 10 it just hangs. Tps was just set and triple checked, new fuel, plugs, cleaned throttle bodies.. I'm thinking maybe injectors but I pulled them out and they look clean. Any input?
 
#4 ·
Idle hang is usually due to a lean condition.

Make sure the fuel pressure is sufficient, and that a crank seal isn't leaking. Spraying starting fluid at the crank seals and intake can help spot a leak.
 
#5 ·
Fuel pressure is 60psi spec calls for 58. I'm good their. I will have to check for air leaks but is their a chance it could hang due to gummed up fuel injectors? I recently had the air box the boots off and replaced the intake boots. And it has all new parts to ensure no air leak. It seems strange that it does this only when hot.
 
#12 ·
Behind the primary and inside the recoil housing (both ends of the crankshaft.) Usually, the MAG side seal is ok, and is not usually tested with anything flammable. The seal is behind the stator, which could create sparks and ignite anything you spray on that seal with the engine running. Test the PTO seal as mentioned by spraying starter fluid, WD 40, carb cleaner (or propane, as smokingcrater mentioned) behind the primary pulley with the engine idling. If there's a change in idle, the seal is leaking.
 
#14 ·
Not too bad if you are good at turning wrenches, but they do involve pulling the engine and splitting the crankcase. The top end can be left together.
 
#15 ·
When you put the new adapters in place did you also use any sealer between the block and parts.
If you just used a gasket it is possible that you still have an air leak there.
 
#16 ·
Just called my local dealership and service department and they said they charge a $35 digital wrench fee and then $93 an hour for labor. They said to hook it up and read the codes and stats it would take 15-20min.. I think I will continue to self diagnose my issue.. sled runs fine just hang a little. That pricing is a little high
 
#19 ·
Alright.. I'm hoping you guys can shed some light here... Took out my sled for a quick ride today and I went from having all lights, hand warmers, and dash led display to losing my dash display, and very dim headlights. Then my dash kept shutting off then turning back on. Tail light when applied killed everything then when let up lights can back on very dim. Is this the voltage regulator or chassis relay? I'm thinking more of the $15 relay, btw stator is tested and good. I need this fixed asap. Any help appreciated
 
#21 ·
Electrical gremlins are the hardest to find. I would start by going through the wiring harness, especially the wires to the tail light and look for bad grounds and/or broken and cracked wires. Make sure the voltage regulator has good contact with the sled. It sounds like a ground problem to me.

Good luck!
 
#22 ·
Chassis ground is shiny clean, tail light wiring checked out. And their appears to be no rubbed through wires on any wiring connections or wires. I'm hoping it's the chassis relay down by the muffler. Been reading a lot on forums and it seems to be a common fail part. Got one on order. It was $15. If it's not that could it also be the rectifier?
 
#23 ·
Everything is in tip top shape now except the dreaded high idle! I have checked everything at least once now and it's between the tps even though it's been checked and in spec, or something way out of the realm of fixing. Their is no air leak, bad gas, plugs, air, engine lights, bog, etc.. runs great! Nice and crisp with loads of power, but something just doesn't add up. I noticed on the ecu it says injector color yellow. If my injectors aren't yellow could the map be causing the high idle as well? I hate to keep bringing this issue up but I have come so far to give up now!
 
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