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2007 Polaris IQ cleanfire CFI problem.

13K views 30 replies 4 participants last post by  Jcarlson24 
#1 ·
I just bought a new sled and she ran like a champ until in the parking lot where I loaded it I switched out the belt and relocated some connections away from the exhaust. I went to start it a few hours later and it won't fire. I don't have spark now. I'm not sure what the heck is going on? It's a 2007 IQ clean fire EFI/CFI 2400 miles.. any ideas?
 
#2 ·
I would look at the wiring you displaced and make sure all the connections are good. Also, look for any other wires that may have been dislodged in the move. Take a look at the wiring from the stator to the kill button and key, maybe something there got pulled loose. If it was running before you moved the wiring, it would seem likely that it's a wiring problem...

Welcome to the forum!
 
#3 ·
I briefly checked over all the wiring I moved ever so slightly. Their isn't anything out of the ordinary as far as I can see. Stator wiring is good but unsure about kill switch. I do believe its a wiring issue as well but I didn't touch much and didn't move it much either. I drove it onto the truck and that's where it sits. I'm at a stand still here.

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#5 ·
Electrical gremlins are horrible... you're doing what I would do... without the aid of the Digital Wrench software/hardware, it's really hard to diagnose electrical problems on the EFI. I hope someone else may have had your issue and can chime in...

One thing that can't hurt is to locate the grounds and make sure they are making good contact.

Which engine do you have?
 
#7 ·
Found the problem!! The ignition wires coming from the stator going to the CDI box were pushed out of their slots thus not making contact with the ecu and thus not supplying power to the coils to fire the plugs. Took hours of diagnosing but took it fir a very short rip in my yard and it's running like new. Thanks for the input BC_Dan!!

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#10 ·
Been doing some minor touch up work on my sled here and realized that it has a hanging idle with the hood closed but is fine when the hood is open. I take it that it means it's not getting enough air with it closed but is their a fix for this?

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#13 ·
Just make sure the hood doesn't push against the cable. You may be able to re-route the cable if the hood is binding.

Try starting the engine and gently push on the cable near where the hood would contact it. If the idle raises, that may indicate you have an issue.

Trimming parts of the plastic on the hood may also be required if there is interference.
 
#18 ·
One thing you should check is that the boots from the engine to the air horns don't have cracks or tears. Also take a look at the PTO side crankcase seal, if it's leaking it may cause a lean condition that can increase the idle speed. Spray some carb cleaner or engine starter around the area and see if there's any leaks.

What is the idle speed when the hood is up vs. when it's down?
 
#21 ·
I have been tinkering around with it some more and it still hangs around 4k rpm once in awhile with the hood closed. As soon as I open the hood it goes back down. I wiggled the throttle cable, adjusted the slack in the throttle, inspected the intake boots, and looked over all connections. Any input from anyone on here on what it could possibly be?

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#22 ·
It may be a sensor that is failing. You can't really determine that without the "digital wrench", which is proprietary software that the dealer will have. There are a lot of sensors on the EFI system, any one can fail and give you problems. It may be to your advantage to pay the dealer to hook it up. You have pretty much exhausted the DYI things that can be checked; air leaks, mechanical interference, cable adjustment, electrical connections. That doesn't leave much else to check except sensors and injectors.

Have you pulled the air box off to look at the air horns? If they have never been cleaned, that may be something to look at as well... grasping at straws now ;)
 
#25 ·
The "Digital Wrench" is a proprietary software program that the dealers have. It runs on a laptop, and is similar to an OBD reader in a car. All Polaris certified mechanics should have one. It's up to the dealer/shop to determine the cost of hooking it to your sled. If you have a great relationship with your dealer and you purchased the sled from them, they may do it for free. If not, they may charge you shop time (usually $75/hour or more) to work on your sled. You will need to call the dealer to answer that question.
 
#26 ·
I think the issue is fixed? I took out the air box again to find that one of the cylinders boots was pulled through on one side. I snapped it back into its slot and tightened everything back up. Went to start it and after 12 pulls I got nothing. I had spark and lots of it. I switched the plug caps around and it started first pull. No more hanging idle as of now. I believe it was that air leak and possibly the switched caps. Does it make a difference what spark plug cap is on what cylinder?

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