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Old 12-15-2011, 04:58 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Question HELP with throttle cable

Seals are in, as are new small-end bearings, new pistons and pins, and now the cylinders and heads are back on. I also have the exhaust and intake manifolds, carb, clutch, mag, flywheel, and recoil back in place and the engine is back in the sled.

I installed all new fuel line and a new filter along with the new primer kit. The plunger, spring, and threaded retainer body were all removed from the original choke cable and installed in the VM34 carb to keep the choke circuit closed off.

Problem: I installed the new throttle cable (see here) and ran into a problem. The cable sheath appears to be too long to allow the slide of my VM34 to close completely when the throttle is completely relaxed. I adjusted the sheath all the way against the carb top to provide the maximum amount of cable to the slide, but it is still up off of the bottom of the carb throat far enough that I can slide my pinky fingertip under the slide up to the first nuckle. Somehow I need to shorten the length of the cable sheath.

Can I disconnect the connector at the throttle lever end from the black sheath and cut some of the sheath away, then slide the connector back in place?
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Old 12-15-2011, 05:37 PM   #22 (permalink)
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First did the lever end of cable Snap into place?
Is the adjuster all the way in on the top of the carb?
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Old 12-15-2011, 06:43 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
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First did the lever end of cable Snap into place?
Is the adjuster all the way in on the top of the carb?
Yes, the lever end is snapped into place and the adjuster end is adjusted all the way into the carb top cap. I need another 3/4" of cable, or 3/4" less sheath.
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Old 12-15-2011, 09:14 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Well either get a different cable or take a dremel with a cut off wheel and cut a line down the cable about an inch and then go around to cut it off!
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:37 PM   #25 (permalink)
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What is the gap for these BR8ES plugs?

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Originally Posted by kccats View Post
Well either get a different cable or take a dremel with a cut off wheel and cut a line down the cable about an inch and then go around to cut it off!
I used the dremel to cut a ring in the cable about 3/4" inch from the beginning of the crimping on the throttle lever end of the cable. I also had to cut away the crimped part of that connector. After this was done the connector slid down the cable ~3/4" exposing more cable. I put some black rtv on it and let it sit for a bit and it turned out pretty good. I was able to adjust all of the slack out of the cable and it works well now.

All that is left is to put a drip hose on the carb vent line, and gap the plugs.

What is the gap for these BR8ES plugs? I saw 0.020" in another forum for a Jag 3000 with the same plug. Close enough?
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:03 PM   #26 (permalink)
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B34 Parts

Does anyone know where to get internal parts for these old B34 carbs?

Thanks,
Eric Sadler
Peoria, IL

Last edited by sadlersattara; 01-30-2012 at 01:11 PM. Reason: Revision
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:30 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Old 01-30-2012, 02:15 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Does anyone know where to get internal parts for these old B34 carbs?

Thanks,
Eric Sadler
Peoria, IL
E-mail sent.

I have the sled running. The VM34 carb came with a 200 main jet and it appears that it is too small. I run out of power (lean bog) at slightly over 1/2 throttle. I got ahold of a friends VM jetting kid with an array of jets, so come next snow I should be able to do some test and tune.

It idles and runs very well at low throttle levels. I'm not going to run it again until I get a bigger jet in there because I don't want to burn it up.
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:37 PM   #29 (permalink)
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So I went from 1/30/12 to 12/26/12 without posting because the snow never came. That sucks.

Today was the first time I touched the sled again since my last post on this thread. New fuel and clean plugs, gave it a prime and no fire. Checked for spark and nothing on the plug. I pulled the magneto 4-pin plug and jumpered black and brown to bypass the wiring harness and switches, and got spark, so the problem is in the switches or harness.

I put one ohm meter lead in the black wire in the sled side of the magneto plug then started working my way down that wire. First stop is the key switch, wire ohmed OK, across the switch ohms ok and opens when the switch is flipped. The other black to key switch goes to the kill switch on the handle bars. I pulled that plug and again the black ohms OK to that point as long as the key is on. Checked across the kill switch, nothing. No continuity at all across the kill switch in either position. I will have to try and pull that apart, but for the time being I put a jumper in the harness across the kill switch so I have to kill it with the key. Now I have spark and it started and idled fine.
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Last edited by jsmorris; 12-26-2012 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:45 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Recap: I rebuilt this sled from Thanksgiving to New Years, end of 2011 but haven;t had snow to tune it in. Sled has a VM34 on it now, choke removed and replaced with a primer kit. Trouble is trying to tune the carb in since it was not an OEM unit on this 275cc sled. I started out with a 200 main jet and was concerned that it was too hot, so now the trial and error begins.

I put a 210 main in today and gave it a shot. After 5 minutes of idling I pulled the plugs and they are dry and dark brown. Restarted and rode it around the yard at <1/2 throttle, no issues at all and throttle response is great. Pulled the plugs again, they lightened to dry and tan. Restarted and ran it down the road at 1/2 throttle, turned around and ran 1/8 mile at full throttle and killed it right in front of the driveway and pulled the plugs. Now they are pretty light, getting to the point that I cannot see much tan. I'm thinking about going to a 220 and trying again. Thoughts?
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Old 12-26-2012, 04:47 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Yep, go up at least on size and maybe two for a broader temp range.
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'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


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http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

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Old 12-26-2012, 05:01 PM   #32 (permalink)
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I should add that this sled has 2x the power it ever had. I can't believe I lived with this thing for 17 years now and just now got around to pulling it apart!
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:08 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Final carb setup!

I got some more seat time this week and tuned the carb some more. On a 20 degree Fahrenheit day at 650 feet altitude and 18 grains/lbm humidity I settled on a 240 main jet with the needle clip on the middle groove. Great throttle response, not running hot, plugs look good and there are no bogs or cut-outs at all.

I am totally amazed at the power output of this sled now. That 275cc is quite impressive now that the engine is fresh and I'm putting the fuel to it in the higher throttle range. I am really looking forward to my boys getting a little older so I can teach them to ride it. For the time being I'll have to be content giving them rides and pulling their sled behind around the yard.

Thanks to everyone for the help, including my good local buddy Earl for coaching me on carb selection and tuning.
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Old 01-06-2013, 05:17 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Don't you just love it when a plan comes together!
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'93 Wildcat 700EFI
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


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http://www.masonicdryden472.org/

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Old 01-06-2013, 08:00 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I grew up on a '78 Jag 2000. It has a single Mikuni slide. I'm thinking a bone yard would have everything you need
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