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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-17-2010, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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Do i need c-clip install tool to install c-clip?

Replacing Pistons and I don't have the c clip install tool. Is there any way to do this without the tool? Manual says to use c-clip installation tool PN 2872622. Is this available at dealer?

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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-17-2010, 07:29 PM
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No ! Never even heard of a c clip tool! I use a ice pick to remove and needle nose and small screw driver to install! Piston pin remover yes!
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-18-2010, 06:41 AM
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Piston pin remover= long socket and light taps.

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-18-2010, 08:31 AM
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Oh no, on a stubern pin you can actually cause rod problems! A 3/4 nipple and a piece of threaded rod and nuts work better! But the pin puller with the left handed retainer is only like $15! I actually had to get the larger one out for trucks to do my ZR800!
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-18-2010, 04:19 PM
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my mom is a doctor, i have an array of surgical tools at my disposal(i always grab something when i visit her at work) hemostats work awesome for c-clips. Its like having a super small pair of pliers that are actually usable lol.

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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kccats View Post
Oh no, on a stubern pin you can actually cause rod problems! A 3/4 nipple and a piece of threaded rod and nuts work better! But the pin puller with the left handed retainer is only like $15! I actually had to get the larger one out for trucks to do my ZR800!
Oops, I was thinking we were in the Doo section. Those are usually just push right out, not pressed.

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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 05:57 PM
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The Polaris pins go in by hand and a little light oil when new, not near as easy when they get older and all carboned up. A piston pin puller (or threaded rod and a couple of sockets) works wonders to get the stubborn ones out...

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-21-2010, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, got the old piston and pins off. The new pins went on very easily with a little 2 cycle oil on the pin and piston.

Still striking out with the C-Clips!

I called the dealer looking for the C-Clip tool that was referenced in the shop manual. (C-CLIP TOOL (22 MM) To install C-clip on Big Block domestic twin engines and 1200 PWC.)

His reply "we don't have any of those here and I can't locate the part number you are referening".

I've tried needle nose and flat head screw driver, no luck.

I think I'll ask the dealer mechanic if I can borrow the tool. He must have one!

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Top End rebuilt - 2700 miles (5/1/10)
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-21-2010, 10:41 AM
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I have had pretty good luck starting one end of the c-clip in the groove (with the space either straight up or straight down) and then just using my fingers and a small flat blade screwdriver to push the clip into the piston. Wear eye protection, if the clip dislodges in your attempt it goes flying. I have a few somewhere in the garage that are never to be seen again by mortal man...

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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$100 beans for a c-clip tool at the dealer. I said no way. I then spoke to service and they said they don't have the tool, they just line it up and push it in with their thumbs. He said you need strong thumbs. Maybe that's it, my thumbs and fingers are behind a keyboard all day

Guess I'll have to give it another try like BC_Dan suggested. My other option is to call over a buddy that owns a auto repair shop. He might have stronger thumbs

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 07:35 AM
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Don't bother! Just lay a rag over the motor and as BC Dan said just put one end in the grove and work it around till it snaps in! Maybe use a pair of needle nose vise grips!
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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 10:59 AM
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If you use the hammer and socket method, be sure to brace the rod/piston with a block of wood to reduce the amount of lateral torquing to near zero.

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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-22-2010, 06:34 PM
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Threaded rod and a 3/4" nipple works better!
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-23-2010, 06:20 AM
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I literally just use needle nose pliers to put it in. Get it started on one end, then just use a little inward pressure to snap it right in.

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-23-2010, 03:51 PM
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The only ones I ever had any trouble with are the old Wiesco type that were a flat type that overlaped themselves! The round C type just pop in!
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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 08:13 AM Thread Starter
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Sucsess! I finally threw in the towel and gave up. I called a friend over who owns an auto repair shop/used car dealer. He did a lot of mechanical work in his past, but not much on small engines he said. I figured his thumbs had done some this work before.

Well, after a few bloody knuckles, he managed to snap them into place.

Two questions came up, but I think we figured it out.

The placment of the piston. We lined the piston with the arrow on the dome of the piston pointing towards the front of the sled. There was no mention in the manual about this so we looked at my old pistons and verified how to mount them.

The Base Gasket. Does it matter how it gets placed onto the upper crankcase? Looking at the gasket, there was a channel around the outer edge. We put the gasket on the crankcase with the channel side down (meaning the channel itself is on the upper side of the gasket). Is this right?

When it's all buttoned up, I'll post pic's of this adventure I'm having :-)

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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 08:31 AM
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Check the position of the ring gaps, they should line up between the port openings.

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RJ Gleason View Post
Check the position of the ring gaps, they should line up between the port openings.
I'm not sure what you mean by between the port openings. I installed the pistons with the ring gaps between the locator pins which are positioned on the back side (no port) of the cylinder. I wouldn't think you would want the ring gap on the exhaust port side, wouldn't you run the risk of the ring floating over the locator pin?

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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 09:22 AM
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No, I mean that when the piston is in the cylinder, the ring gaps should not pass over any port opening.
Different manufacturers use different markings to indicate indexing of the piston.
Ensuring that the ring gaps are positioned correctly is extremely important, more so than where the arrow or other marking is pointed.

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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RJ Gleason View Post
No, I mean that when the piston is in the cylinder, the ring gaps should not pass over any port opening.
Different manufacturers use different markings to indicate indexing of the piston.
Ensuring that the ring gaps are positioned correctly is extremely important, more so than where the arrow or other marking is pointed.
I got it then. The arrow is pointing towards the exhaust ports and the ring gaps are positioned between the locator pins on the opposite side (no ports).

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