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Old 02-21-2008, 09:39 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Post Generic clutch cleaning advise.

As many of you have noticed, I advocate cleaning the clutches quite often, rather than messing with carbs as the solution to a low speed/start off or acceleration bog problem.
Over time belt dust and oil mist combine to form a grime that will cause the clutches to stick/bind making it feel as if the engine has no power due to trying to pull as if in a high gear. Some have even mentioned a "clunk" or "pop" when coming to a stop. This is due to the clutch sheave hanging up and then snapping back to the idle position.

When cleaning clutches, do both the primary (on the engine) and the secondary (driven) units.

Start by removing the belt and inspecting it for wear. (normal or uneven)
Use an air compressor and blow out the inside of both units. (do not breath this dust in, it's not good for the lungs)
Then I use spray brake cleaner (some suggest warm water only, your choice) and flush them out. blow out with air and check the action, repeat steps as necessary. While you are in there, inspect for any unusual wear to the weight arm bushings, the rollers, and the center bushing. Replace as necessary.

After cleaning, ripe down the sheave faces with a dry cloth. Do not use any oil or grease on the clutch units. If you want to lube them, use a dry lube designed for this purpose, either in an aerosol can or loose powdered graphite.
This is what I use on mine; Parts Unlimited | Snow

Reinstall belt and have a blast with your new performing clutches.
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Old 02-21-2008, 09:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Good post RJ.
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Old 02-23-2008, 12:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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very helpfull,a good way to get to know your sled
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Old 02-27-2008, 10:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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RJ, when you use the dry lube what part of the clutch do you put it on?
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Old 02-27-2008, 10:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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On the slide parts only.
behind the spyder and on the weights and rollers.
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Old 02-28-2008, 10:17 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks RJ, is there a trick to getting the spider off? I've tried heating the threads and using a Sno-Stuff spider tool and it still doesn't want to move.
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Old 02-28-2008, 12:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I have never taken on apart that far. no need to just for cleaning.
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Old 03-07-2008, 08:27 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yes ,great post RJ!
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Old 09-17-2008, 10:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I do this to my sleds every summer, except I take the secondary right off and take it apart to clean off and check out the helixes and wear buttons.
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Old 10-21-2008, 11:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Stumbled across this thread, never even thought that the annoying pop O hear when starting off would be clutch related. I bet it is. I am cleaning my clutches this weekend. Thanks
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Old 01-22-2009, 01:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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oN my 440 Jag Special it does the clunking but when on the start up the primary clutch grabs and causes hard starting...i dont have a puller to clean the clutch or the tool to open it but is there a reason why i drove it all season without this problem till yesterday it grabs all the time i bought a brand new belt and put it on and it still grabs..even turning the secondary by hand it grabs...My main question is...Do i need to adjust the primary so its looser and does not grab or are my bushings or bearing worn out?
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Old 10-05-2009, 01:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by diez_440jag View Post
oN my 440 Jag Special it does the clunking but when on the start up the primary clutch grabs and causes hard starting...i dont have a puller to clean the clutch or the tool to open it but is there a reason why i drove it all season without this problem till yesterday it grabs all the time i bought a brand new belt and put it on and it still grabs..even turning the secondary by hand it grabs...My main question is...Do i need to adjust the primary so its looser and does not grab or are my bushings or bearing worn out?
New user here, same problem but with a 92 Phazer II I've only had a short while.
My clutch stays engaged when I stop too, it releases only after it cools down.
I would like to clean it.
The original post says:
"Start by removing the belt and inspecting it for wear. (normal or uneven)
Use an air compressor and blow out the inside of both units. (do not breath this dust in, it's not good for the lungs)
Then I use spray brake cleaner (some suggest warm water only, your choice) and flush them out. blow out with air and check the action, repeat steps as necessary. While you are in there, inspect for any unusual wear to the weight arm bushings, the rollers, and the center bushing. Replace as necessary."
...
Am I not removing anything besides the belt? "Blowing out the inside of both clutches". For someone who has never cleaned a clutch, can anyone help explain where to clean?
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Old 10-05-2009, 03:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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What if you don't have an air compressor? (I do but just wondering)
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Old 10-07-2009, 04:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Wonder if anyone looks at this thread to answer questions?
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Old 10-07-2009, 06:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Compressed air in a can.
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:21 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beatcars View Post
Am I not removing anything besides the belt? "Blowing out the inside of both clutches". For someone who has never cleaned a clutch, can anyone help explain where to clean?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinsofMLB View Post
What if you don't have an air compressor? (I do but just wondering)
Not sure if Yamaha clutches are fully enclosed but if not, wash with warm soapy water. Just pour it on and try to get it inside, let it soak and rinse off with a hose. I personally stay away from solvents 'cause I'm not sure how they affect the fiber bushings (if your clutch has them). The belt contact faces can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol soaked rag.
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Old 10-07-2009, 10:31 PM   #17 (permalink)
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All the newer clutches use a brass or plastic bushing, so the brake cleaner is not a problem.
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'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
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1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


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Old 10-08-2009, 08:31 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Not sure if Yamaha clutches are fully enclosed but if not, wash with warm soapy water. Just pour it on and try to get it inside, let it soak and rinse off with a hose. I personally stay away from solvents 'cause I'm not sure how they affect the fiber bushings (if your clutch has them). The belt contact faces can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol soaked rag.
Thanks!
I was thinking to clean a clutch you had to take the clutch off or apart.
I suppose if I clean it and still have a problem with it "hanging up" then I need a new clutch...
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Old 10-08-2009, 10:18 AM   #19 (permalink)
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No, then you take it off and do a dis-assembly and thorough cleaning.
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'90 Wildcat Project in progress.

Vintage (sorta)
1980 Indy Trail 440 (for sale)
1980 AC Pantera (donor engine to the 90 wildcat)


http://www.dcdrifters.net/


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Old 10-08-2009, 01:33 PM   #20 (permalink)
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No, then you take it off and do a dis-assembly and thorough cleaning.
I see.
Any helpful guides for that?
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