Kemo

I did some measurements, and I appear to have more than enough clearance up front. My biggest concern, are the heat exchangers running with the track, as it appears the track has "slapped" it a couple of times (I would still have clearance for 1.25, but the track markings with a .75" concerned me). However, I would imagine that a properly tensioned track wouldn't do so? I might go with the Kimpex "Ultimate Traxtion" due to the convenience factor that it is right here in town at ShadeTree, all I have to do is walk into the store and pick it up. Here is a snip from my service manual attached.

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Kemo

i retract my statement. i can NOT fit anything larger than stock. it is extremely tight. looks like i will just stud the stocker

yamadad4

i ran a 1.5" on my 94 after changing the stock 9t drivers to 8t.

having no experience with studs, per say, i would agree with rj and the one inch lug track. i ran my stock track heavily studded for grass dragging way back in the day with out issue. i had both one inch cleats and one inch chisel points with room to spare.

if your showing signs of the track slapping the tunnel, consider both track tension as well as suspension settings, even worn/blown shocks.

one inch lugs with studs should easily clear the exchangers, at least mine did. as for your gear, whats in there now? i have a bucket of gears left over from the drag days.

Kemo

There is no way I could get a 1 inch in mine, I measured it religiously. I took a 1/4" block and ran it across the heat exchangers, up towards the front is where it comes to a stop/hits the track. There is not enough clearance towards the front of the 2 exchangers that run along the tunnel.

Gearing: The gearing is stock, I have no idea what there is in there for number of teeth.

kccats

Simply drop a tooth on top! Or drop and add one to the bottom!

yamadad4

seems a bit odd your lacking lacking the clearance. any alterations to the sled? condition of the skid components?

using the ST model with the 136 track as a reference, it had 1" or taller lugs and i believe still used the 9t drivers, although its been several years since i had that sled.

20/37 or 20/39 would be stock depending on model. once you open the chaincase you will know for sure. same gears were used on those from 97 and up on all but the srx's. sometime after 2000 alot of the models went to the hyvo style gears. should be easy to find.

Kemo

It is just a VX600W. Nothing else special about it that I know of, but I'm not 100% familiar with the naming and editions. 15x121 track with .75" profile. I have no problem with just studding it, I just have to make sure that I plot out my pattern in a smart pattern. I have been doing a little bit of research so far.

kccats

If you get the 8 tooth drivers not only can you get the 1.25" but it would gear you down too!

Kemo

are they somewhat universal?

kccats

Some what in that you would want 2.52 drivers, but the axel size differs!
Have you gone to Tracks USA?

Kemo

we'll see how the winter goes. this week, 60s... not looking too good so far in central and northwestern minnesota. I'm going to roll with the 96 studs and play out the year with that setup. If it is pretty bad, then I have a project over the summer

looked at tracksusa, but amazon is way cheaper

See example . The very same sled that is the reason that I registered here back in 06 is getting this track. I'll have to snag the pictures of what is going on... it is getting essentially restored/upgraded. Tracksusa: $400. It is going on a 79 ex440.

Kemo

KC, according to Kimpex, it is supposed to be 9 teeth, with a bore of 1.040". I can't find anything in the same bore but with fewer teeth.

However, Kimpex also has listed "for deeper lug tracks" part numbers 04-108-62 and 04-108-63. Those appear to be 1.060". I'm not finding anything that is going to be a direct replacement.

How confident are you that I can stuff a 1.25" in there with that sprocket? Prior experience? I'd be happy with 1 inch at this point, but I would really feel more comfortable with the 8 tooth sprocket, provided we can find one

Thanks man!

edit... did some math. 9 x 2.52 = 22.68". 22.68/3.14 = 7.223" (approximate diameter) 8 x 2.52 = 20.16". 20.16/3.14 = 6.42" (approx dia). that would mean i can fit approximately .4" additional lug length, correct? I took the difference of. 803 and divided by 2 to get that .4" value.

yamadad4

consider kimpex pt #'s 04-108-62 and 04-108-63.

i ran an 1 1/2 paddle track on my pogo vmax using 8t drivers.

i also should have a vmax shaft with 8t drivers already on it.

your driveshaft should be 27mm(1.06) remember that the drivers need pressed on so the inside diameter is always slightly less than the actual shaft diameter.

Kemo

any special way to press them on so i don't shatter them?

are you also stating that you may have something for sale?

yamadad4

shattering isnt an issue as they arent brittle by any means. the trick is carefull layout and measures to ensure correct location. from there its just a slow and steady press eying the hubs at the center to make sure theres no deformities happening. some i have pressed have wanted to expand the hubs lengthwise slightly. you just need to pay attention as you go.

yes, i was referencing the possibility of a used shaft with 8 tooth drivers. i would need to dig it out. there would only be the two center drives on this shaft, its the way we roll out west. rarely do i use the outer two guide wheels.

Kemo

Really? I'm curious, why not the outers?

yamadad4

dont really have a reason for it other than weight savings and rotating mass.

looking back over the years, there were several sleds that used a 2 driver set up. seems like the additional guide wheels were added as more of a precautionary measure that soon became the norm with higher output sleds and the addition of traction enhancing devices.

old school, i guess, but the way we ride, two wheels have served their purpose, although normally when i go this route i am using extroverts. the anti-ratchet drivers seem to take care of most any issues associated with track side bite.

the used drivers and shaft i mentioned are not anti ratchet style.

Kemo

i know nothing regarding "anti-ratcheting".

yamadad4

"extrovert" or "antiratchet" drivers have an additional tooth formed to them that drives the window portion of the track as well as the internal drive lugs on the track. these enable you to run the track a bit looser to reduce rolling resistance and free up some power.

Kemo

No biggie. If the axle with sprockets is up for grabs, I have no problem finding the lateral sprockets