Here is what you need to consider when picking out your traction products and installing them:
What is your riding style and where are you riding?
The same snowmobile lightly ridden by a lightweight rider will normally require up to half as many studs as one ridden all-out by a heavier rider. Only you can determine exactly the type and quantity of studs you will need for your exact application. Manufacturers guides are a great place to get a ballpark figure of what you will need to get started. The goal is to have just enough studs to keep the track from spinning uncontrollably under normal maximum acceleration in your normal areas conditions. Any more and you risk chattering from lack of penetration, any less you risk damage to the studs and track from over stressing the studs and track holes.
Myth: "Running a larger number of studs weakens the track, so running less is better"
Fact: Absolutely wrong. If it takes you 192 studs to keep you from spinning uncontrollably in normal conditions, it is far better than over stressing 144 studs and destroying them by accidentally doing a burnout over a gravel bed. The extra weight is a small price you will have to pay for your aggressive riding. Yes, it will cut your top end speed down, but if you are going 105, wouldn't you rather have 192 studs stopping you when the deer jumps out into the trail, or your friend stops in front of you suddenly. I know I do. When you under stud you are over stressing the rubber in the track around the studs. This causes bent backers, cord damage and tear outs. Also, stud head size has a lot less to do with tear-outs than properly tightened nuts and correct length studs do.
With that being said, you have a snowmobile with the stock track in good or new condition and you want to select the proper type, size, length, and pattern to install. This is easier than you think.
...read the full guide with pics here
Great stuff...
Linear Mode
