Did you get the mounting hole patterns?
You need to measure from the drive axel to each hole and then measure from the top of the tunnel down!
Next you will need a track.
As for extending the tunnel, A sheet of allum and bend the sides down. pop rivet it to the tunnel.
Do you have a rear heat exchanger? You will need to move the mud flap back about 11-12"!
The flap helps send snow back up into the tunnel to cool the heat exchangers!
My friend has a summit just like the one that I got the suspension (and track forgot that) from. How accurate do the measurements have to be? And I'll probably turn some bushings to make it fit.
You will need to locate all four suspension bolt holes exactly like your friends sled. Too much or too little can really mess up the geometry and can even cause damage to the suspension and the sled. Measure twice, drill once!
Take careful measurements from your friend's Summit. Measure the spread of the two holes on each side, the length down from the top of the tunnel, and distance behind the flat of the driveshaft. You want to maintain the same geometry and approach angle as the suspension was designed for. It can be a tedious process, take your time and measure repeatedly as you go. Make sure you get a track the correct length for your suspension and with a pitch to match your drivers. You may also want to drop a tooth depending on the type of riding you want to do, or re-gear. Good luck!
Regearing may be necessary?
I put a 121" track on my Ovation and 1" lug!
I thought I would have to drop a tooth, but it seems to pull quite well!
But you may not know till it has been out on snow a few times?
With a longer track, you need to keep the track spinning in the deep stuff, so re-gearing to get more torque to the track is pretty important. The longer track will require more force to turn, especially when in deep snow. The high gears of a trail sled can't keep the track turning, so you end up toasting the belt at the clutch (especially with the power of that 800!)
Look at the specifications for the sprockets on the summit 800 with the 144" track and you will see the difference. I would try to get as close to that ratio as I can. Check the chaincase, too. Sometimes there are differences that won't allow a direct change over of the Summit parts (not sure, I'm definitely not a Skidoo guy) but you should be able to get close with your ratio.
Want show you guys how this is going
put 4mm(iirc) aluminum plates on each side and made new running boards
Motor has also been fully rebuild, new crankshaft and pistons
gearing ration went from about 1.8:1 to 2.5:1
also have GGB can
Have a 8" handlebar riser and a BMP clutch kit on it's way
Album from yesterday: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
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