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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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93 EXT 550 Carb questions

I am not sure if I have posted here or not. I bought my first snowmobile last fall. I looked around for quite awhile trying to find one with low miles and was not a project for a low price, mostly because I did not know if I would like riding and figured I could get my money back if I decided to get out. After a trip this past weekend I think I will hang on to it for a while!

Anyway, my question is about the carbs. It looks like someone unplugged them and made a jumper of sorts for the sled side of the wiring and left the plugs from the carbs just dangle. It runs great once it warms up, but the idle seems to vary from 900 to 1300. I know it should idle higher than that, but am afraid to adjust it, since it sometimes the idle seems to wander. Also, it is a little bit of a pain when starting it from cold, I have to nurse the throttle until it warms up a little bit. I just wondered if the magnetic switch on the carbs had anything to do with this?

I planned to take the carbs off and clean them and get the idle back up to specified range, but before I do I wanted to see if there is something else I should look at.

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Chris


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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 07:39 AM
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Welcome to the Snow Show!
There is a great section here called the How Too section!
Clean the carbs and pay attention to the Pilot jets(up the tube), even floss it with a strand of wire! Then syc the carbs. Adjust the slides by holding the throtle wide open and adjust the cable so that the slide is flush across the bottom. Then use a 3/16 drill bit and lower the slides down onto it and loosen or tighten the idle adjuster (large thumb screw) until there is a slight drag on it! Now you can start it and adjust the idle up or down by counting the turns, keeping them the same!
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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93 EXT 550 Carb questions

I missed the how to section! Thanks for the tip. I did not think to do a search for the magnetic switches, they have no bearing on this issue seeing as they are part of the safety switch.

Hopefully I will have some time this weekend to get at this.

Thanks,
Chris


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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 11:28 AM
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When operating properly, the switches kill the engine when the slides hang up. That can happen from carb icing or from slides that have galling that keeps them from returning normally. They can be a PITA and a lot of people disconnect them. Personally, I like the safety feature and keep mine working. Your results may vary.

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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 03:15 PM
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Air mix screw is 1full turn out from lightly seated position.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-22-2013, 05:37 PM
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Re: 93 EXT 550 Carb questions

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Originally Posted by BC_Dan View Post
When operating properly, the switches kill the engine when the slides hang up. That can happen from carb icing or from slides that have galling that keeps them from returning normally. They can be a PITA and a lot of people disconnect them. Personally, I like the safety feature and keep mine working. Your results may vary.

Welcome to the forum!
Agreed. I replaced the kill switch because it was broken. Leaving the safety switches connected for sure! That 1% that it sticks and ends you in the hospital is not worth it
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 03:32 PM
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1993 EXT Carb

I have a 1993 EXT. I am getting it ready for the winter. I have had it for 10 years, and the first start of the winter is always a hassle. It seems that the carbs don't want to pick up fuel. Once it has been run, it starts great (3-4 pulls)
Is there a way to prime the carbs? I have always just pulled ALOT. Once I see the fuel come into the line it always fires.
Thanks in advance.
Chris
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 03:44 PM
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I pressurize the gas tank and watch the fuel flow into the carbs. Only takes about 20 seconds at 5-8 PSI. The way I do it is just cup my hand around the fill hole with my compressor hose. You can see the tank expand a little then stop putting air in and just seal the fill hole with your hand for 10-20 seconds. Yes, the air will leak out through the vents, but typically it is slow enough to fill the carbs.

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 05:25 PM
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I use a syringe and fill the float bowls through the vent lines on the carbs.. not everyone has syringes, though.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 08:06 PM
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Thanks for the advice. It worked great. I may have to buy a new sled though. I had put a little air to the tank, and told my son if he started it I would buy him a sled with electric start......about a half pull and it fire off!!!! So it is all ready for snow, hopefully we get some tomorrow.
Thanks again

Chris
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 08:09 PM
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Thanks
I had heard about doing something like that. But not sure of where to put the gas. So it is just in the small vent tubes? Does it run long enough to draw the gas into the fuel line?
The air to the tank worked today, but I will keep it in mind, about the syringe.
Chris
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2016, 08:11 PM
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I just blow into the gas cap!
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-17-2016, 09:21 PM
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Pretty much if you can get fuel in the float bowls so the engine will run for a few minutes, the fuel pump should be able to fill the float bowls normally. When I had mainly carbed sleds, I would drain the carbs at the end of the season and then fill them back up with the vent lines. I tried using the rope, but that took forever. If you do use the recoil starter to do it, pull the plugs and pull the rope about 20 times so you have less resistance and greater RPM on the engine. That can help a bunch, too.

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-18-2016, 10:21 AM
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But clean them including removing the jets (including the pilot up the tube) as well as the mixture screw and spray all the passages then blow them out!
Then check the float level!!!!
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