98 arctic cat zr600 efi starting/running issues - Page 3 - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

babzog · 01-22-2013, 10:00 PM

I was always told to have a machine shop run the hone soas to get the proper crosshatch patten on the cyl walls.

http://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceTi...efinishing.htm

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djhammy · 01-23-2013, 06:53 PM

kccats... you have a 83.00mm big bore in your cat right? what did you all have done at a machine shop? just bore out the cylinders or was there more to it, and how much did you spend at machine shop aprox....? I think I can get a good deal somewhere and was wondering.... thanks ahead of time.

djhammy · 01-24-2013, 11:00 PM

tried only doing rings and gaskets did not work out for me, first off I got anti freeze in the crank which took some time cleaning it out, then I was having trouble sliding the cylinders over the piston ( by rings ) I think the slots on pistons were too gunked up which didn't allow the new rings to slide well, and to top it all off I chiped a half a dime size piece off the bottom edge of one.... ended up bending 3 of the 4 new rings. its put together but I aint startin it...so I shoulda just bought the whole top end right away.

sae1722 · 01-25-2013, 05:59 AM

I think this job is a bit out of your expertice and you should get some help before any more damage is done and ends up costing you big $$$. If you lived close I would say bring it over and lets git ur done.

djhammy · 01-25-2013, 07:54 AM

I don't really have the means of transporting it, and the only guy I know is 35min away, although this was my first, I don't feel this is out of my capability, I could have honed my cylinders but I still had the problem with the rings not sliding like they should and when they don't all compress in like they should that made a prob for me and I shoulda just stoped there and bought new pistons.

frustration got the best of me....

djhammy · 01-25-2013, 07:57 AM

whats the easiest way to drain coolant?

sae1722 · 01-25-2013, 08:42 AM

Just take a deep breath and start over. Get a deglazing hone(a dingleberry hone some might call it), oil up the cylinders and slowly run the hone while briskly moving it up and down in the cylinder. this will cut the glaze and give the new rings something to seat on, similar to turning brake rotors when doing a brake job. Use an old piston ring to clean the ring grooves out. Just break the ring and use the broken edge to clean the carbon out of the groove. A little carb cleaner will help in breaking down the carbon. Next clean everything up and install the new rings. Make sure they are pointed in the right direction(yes there is an up side and a down side) and make sure the rings are positioned correctly on the piston. There is a pin in the ring groove that keeps the ring from turning on 2-stroke engines. Lube the cylinders and slide the jugs onto the pistons and only finger tight the jug nuts. install the cylinder head and torque, then torque the jug nuts last. Hope this helps, good luck.

djhammy · 01-25-2013, 09:15 AM

sob.... I do recall hearing about an up side and down side of the rings, I didn't pay attention to that either, but I did try cleaning the ring slots out with carb cleaner and tooth brush, then oiled it up. I learn best by seeing the work done and was searching for videos on utube but most were half way into it and or fast played though stuff, either way that little chip in the bottom of one piston tells me I should just buy new pistons tho. wish I had a helping buddy that gets into this stuff, two's better than one....thanks a lot for your help, all you guys!

djhammy · 02-11-2013, 10:38 AM

I got my new spi pistons installed, just waitin on cylinders at machine shop, had them honed out, I had bought a honer, but wasn't happy with the results because the stones were only 4 in long and when I got to the center of cylinders by the exaust ports ect, it caught on edges of the ports, so I wanted it done right, machine shop only charges $10 per cylinder, not bad at all.....

djhammy · 02-13-2013, 10:21 AM

got it running guys, my cats just about back... still waiting on parts to fabricate my air box, but I got an issue I noticed and mentioned before in my post regarding the throttle body.... and ill add a separate fresh post if your all not fallowing this one. anyways, I had the throttle body out and cleaned it pretty dang good, I also was trying to figure out how to adjust that tps sensor since it swivels a bit and you tighten it in place, issue is that the idle wont go low enough to have a steddy idle, so im thinking the coil springs that open up flaps might need to be replaced or somehow wraped around another time, that or the tps is ever so slightly off, you guys got any ideas

**RJ Gleason** · 02-13-2013, 01:47 PM

You have to hold the TPS in place when you tighten it so that the throttle plates will close sufficiently.

djhammy · 02-13-2013, 03:19 PM

im messing with as we speak, and I think that's what it was, problem is that the stearing bar is too close the bottom plug end of the tps, so as of now im going to try adding a washer or two to the rear motor mounts, lifting the back up just enough, making enough room so it don't rub out the coatuing on the wires for tps....

djhammy · 02-13-2013, 06:58 PM

I tightend the tps sensor down to where it just starts to open up the butterflies (flaps). but I still am able to take a screw driver and push that lever which closes them flaps a bit more, so im not 100% yet, im thinkin somthin still aint right with this throttle body, is there anybody else that can push down that lever by cable to close it a bit more? if not somthings gunked up somewhere

**RJ Gleason** · 02-13-2013, 09:50 PM

Did you try spraying any penetrating oil onto the throttle plate rods?
Any gunk on them will cause binding.
They should snap back to fully closed [minus the idle stop screw adjustment] the only other thing that might be stopping them from closing fully would be the throttle cable itself is too tight and not allowing full return.

djhammy · 02-13-2013, 10:30 PM

I had the throttle body out before I did the top end and cleaned it with carb cleanerr but maybe taking out again and hitting it good with pb blaster will do the trick. If I slam the throttle and relase it seems to fully close but not if slowly release throttle.so its gotta be build up

93Wildcat700 · 02-14-2013, 07:59 AM

Yes. It sounds sticky. Also a tight or bent throttle cable will cause your high idle too..

Notice how if you start your sled and touch your throttle cable it will affect the idle. Also yes my TPS is really close to my steering post and i have a huge motor compared to your 600. its fine. Tape it up and protect it.

Just be careful messing with the TPS that will affect your timing.

Good job getting your motor back together

It was probably the rings... yes they have to go a certain way and be locked into those 2 grooves.

djhammy · 02-14-2013, 08:07 AM

ya I had pulled the tps out twice now, whats the deal with this, does it get wound up before its installed, like full throttleing making it wide open and the putting it on, whats the trick guys ?

djhammy · 02-18-2013, 06:29 PM

tps sensor is fine, so that mystery is put to rest.... it basically just goes on and is adjusted to match the movement of throttle. my throttle was sticking because the tps was screwed down too tight and/or also needs a replacement o ring. so as of now it idles good, and revs up good.
however after having a machine shop hone out my cylinders im only getting 80 psi in each, after I add a cap full of oil to cylinder apark plug holes, I get 100 psi, I was told my cylinders should have been diamond honed, thought a machine shop would have known better....

JesseJ · 02-19-2013, 06:43 AM

I would think you will be fine at 100, run it a bit and let it warm up then recheck the compression.

I only put new rings in mine, and I hate to re-dig up an old hole, but that hesitation, I had that when my low side of the stator was going out. It was intermittent.

Get the shocks rebuilt. You can do it yourself if you buy the tools for it, there are video's on youtube showing how to do it. The one that will go out the most is that limiter shock and adjuster you have on your handlebars (you did say you had a LE) You will need to loosen the airbox/computer up to slide that hose out.

djhammy · 02-19-2013, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JesseJ

I would think you will be fine at 100, run it a bit and let it warm up then recheck the compression.

I only put new rings in mine, and I hate to re-dig up an old hole, but that hesitation, I had that when my low side of the stator was going out. It was intermittent.

Get the shocks rebuilt. You can do it yourself if you buy the tools for it, there are video's on youtube showing how to do it. The one that will go out the most is that limiter shock and adjuster you have on your handlebars (you did say you had a LE) You will need to loosen the airbox/computer up to slide that hose out.

it is the le, but that just gave it the color black, I see them more often on green models, so no adjustment by handle bar, I actually torn down skid and did some adjustments, so the suspension is 100%, fully sprung, even made custom coil spring blocks, everything is all painted up and gorgeous..