97 580zr EFI injector question? - Page 3 - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

**kccats** · 12-26-2012, 07:21 AM

How about just swaping the complete driven clutches!

ZRNUT · 12-26-2012, 09:55 AM

KC Are you saying put the Poo style clutch on the problem sled?
I did some checking today and found that the Helix on my sled with the 006048-005 is actually a straight 55 degree. So if my RPMs are over 8200 which way do i go on the helix? Up or Down?

**RJ Gleason** · 12-26-2012, 04:24 PM

How much over 8200?
Move the spring anchor from #3 [center hole] to #2 which will reduce the peak rpm by appx 200.

**kccats** · 12-26-2012, 04:59 PM

Yes just swap them both! And see if it changes the problem, then you will know if it is the driven or Not!

ZRNUT · 12-26-2012, 05:35 PM

went out and ran it out. top rpm' is about 8500. so RJ i should move it back one hole (counter clockwise) that should bring it down to 8300 rpm's. One question will this effect my out of the hole or the snappy mid range it has now?

KC i'm going to take it on a ride friday night to see if the fuel mileage changed at all. If not then i will change out the driven's to see if it makes a difference.

**RJ Gleason** · 12-27-2012, 03:31 PM

Correct, it will not effect hole shot or mid range, it will improve back shift.

ZRNUT · 12-28-2012, 08:17 AM

RJ Do you fell the drop in only 400 to 500 rpms will make that much of of an improvement in my fuel consumption? It seems like over a tank full it would be minimal. But i will find out tonight. I'll go out and run a tank out of it to see.

One other thing i was thinking about. What or how much control does the air box sensor have on fuel consumption and could this be bad? If it was bad would it show up on the ECU with a trouble code?

Grudman · 12-28-2012, 08:52 AM

$00 to 500 rpm at the top end will not make it that much of a difference in mile per gallon of fuel it will help .

I have same engine in my sled. Two things to consider for mileage.If you spinning the track a lot on lose packed snow it going to drop big time.

As for the air box sensor. Yes you would get a signal on your ecu but again that not going to kill your gas mileage.

I betting on your belt is not engaging all the way and is slipping due to your primer or secondary clutch not engaging properly.

Start your sled do a fuel throttle run. and take a picture of your spark plug so we can see the color that will tell us a lot.

ZRNUT · 12-28-2012, 10:26 AM

I have both sleds running on the same trails. So that should show up on fuel consumption on both sleds but it doesn't. I' have done plug chops on numerous times and they are a nice brown. I can do another since i haven't done one now with the changes in clutch adjustments. But this sled has a new belt on it and if it was slipping i don't think it would be pulling the skis off the ground.
I'm curious about this backshift that RJ is talking about. The sleds seems to over rev when i let up into a corner say down to 40mph and when i get down on it coming out it will rev to 6000 before i feel it pull again.

Grudman · 12-28-2012, 10:37 AM

Yeah something not right with the engagement of the clutches! Almost sound as your clutch is sticking and not releasing! Can you put a video up of your clutch area with the track raised and rev the motor. Easier to help if we where there. I have hard time explaing things in text!

**RJ Gleason** · 12-28-2012, 02:34 PM

Yes, over revving by any amount will effect MPG as you are now running the engine out of it's power band and just wasting fuel.

Grudman · 12-28-2012, 03:07 PM

Rj i see your point but I can't see him losing 50 mpg for 500 rpm. I run around 92 to 98 mpg on my sled. I sure he lose some but Just curious as to how his clutch is working or not working properly. Would a clutch or a primary not engaging all the way cause this. Like getting stuck half way open or closed?

Just curious?

**RJ Gleason** · 12-28-2012, 03:12 PM

Insufficient tension on the secondary would cause back shift problems such as he is having.
Also a sticking unit will do this too.
I'm kinda wondering if his spring was not "wound up" when installed?
Gotta give them that 1/3 twist to get the ramps lined up with enough pressure to function properly.

Grudman · 12-28-2012, 03:37 PM

that would do it!

ZRNUT · 12-29-2012, 06:30 PM

I'm wondering if you are not right about the secondary not having any preload on it. Took it out and i'm getting 8200 top rpm. The fuel mileage is still running 4 mpg. 18miles and 4.8 gal of fuel. when i was running it on the open straight away. i had it running at 75mph when i let up for a second and then hit the throttle again the engine kind of trys to rev up but seems to bog and it doesn't accelerate.
If i totally let off and then hit it again it will rev to 6000rpms and hook back up and then accelerate again.. Is this what you are talking about in the back shift/

I tried to take a movie of the driven running while it was up on the stand but i don't know how to put it on the site. Guess i'm clutch dumb and computer dumb too.

ZRNUT · 12-29-2012, 06:39 PM

When i took the driven apart to move the spring back one hole. it didn't seem to have much tension on it. How much should i put on it? RJ You are saying 1/3 turn is that from relaxed/ If so is that like one post past the relaxed position?
Will to much tension have the same effect? I'm going to go on another ride tomorrow so i would like to try what you are saying.

**kccats** · 12-30-2012, 05:52 AM

With the secondary sitting on the floor in a rool of duct tape, it should require quiet a bit of strength to rotate it and push it down over the studs and a knee to hold it there while you start the nuts!

ZRNUT · 12-30-2012, 09:22 AM

Was talking with a buddie last night and he was saying to check my drives on the skid. That a way they used to cheat in a stock drag class was to put different size drives on. He claims that it doesn't show up on the tach since the clutching will adjust for top rpms. Is this right or was the beer talking?

ZRNUT · 12-30-2012, 05:54 PM

Put the pre load on the driven today before i went out like KC said. Managed to get only 4.3 MPG so no luck there. But on the way back i blew my exhaust out again.
This is the second exhaust pipe i have exploded now. I'm really lost for an answer. I measured the drive wheels on both sleds they are the same so it's not this either. To me if i'm blowing exhaust's up there has to be a fuel build up in the pipe. We were running about 90mph on a long straight when i let up into a corner when i hit it as i came out it just blew it open. This happened to me last year again. the 40 mile ride home was painful to say the least, my ears are still ringing!!!
I'm so tired of this sled i wish i new where to go. I'm going to try switching out the driven's from the two sleds just to eliminate this as a possibility. But that will have to wait until i find another exhaust pipe
Anybody got any ideas anymore ?

ZRNUT · 12-31-2012, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZRNUT

Put the pre load on the driven today before i went out like KC said. Managed to get only 4.3 MPG so no luck there. But on the way back i blew my exhaust out again.
This is the second exhaust pipe i have exploded now. I'm really lost for an answer. I measured the drive wheels on both sleds they are the same so it's not this either. To me if i'm blowing exhaust's up there has to be a fuel build up in the pipe. We were running about 90mph on a long straight when i let up into a corner when i hit it as i came out it just blew it open. This happened to me last year again. the 40 mile ride home was painful to say the least, my ears are still ringing!!!
I'm so tired of this sled i wish i new where to go. I'm going to try switching out the driven's from the two sleds just to eliminate this as a possibility. But that will have to wait until i find another exhaust pipe
Anybody got any ideas anymore ?

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