How to remove cylinders??? - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

creanzworld · 06-02-2012, 09:24 PM

**I apologize if this is already on the site, but i did not find it in my quick search for it. Feel free to just post a link to it, if its here**

Anyway my arctic cat is a 700cc twin and im trying to take off the cylinders to empty out any liquid that is underneath the pistons (which is coolant) i gotta do this asap before the coolant eats away too quickly at anything. I recently just took off the tops without draining the coolant first (i know..my bad) and the coolant overflowed into the cylinders and now it wont run. SO, how the heck do you get those off? I took off those nuts, but they still dont budge. Are those long bolts threaded at the bottom as well?? If so, this would explain why they dont budge. ANy help as to how to access the bottom of the pistons to drain the coolant would be great. thanks!

**BC_Dan** · 06-02-2012, 10:00 PM

With the four base nuts removed, the only thing that will hold the cylinder on is the gasket. Sometimes they are pretty sticky. I use a dead blow rubber hammer and hit the cylinder to get it going, tap gently and hit where there's the most material. To get the fluid out without removing the cylinder, put the head back on, pull the spark plugs, and crank it over until no more fluid comes out. Then spray some fogging oil in through the intake and pull some more. You won't be able to re-use the base gaskets and you should replace the head o-rings as well.

I would also consider pulling the engine and turning it upside down, you're almost there anyway. If you pull the cylinders, you will still have to figure a way to get the fluid out of the crankcase. If you do pull the engine, make sure to drain all the air out of the oil pump on reassembly and pre-mix the first tank of gas to make sure the oil pump is operating correctly.

Welcome to the forum!

creanzworld · 06-02-2012, 10:45 PM

ok thanks for the help. Ill follow those processes and see what happens. Ill most likely just turn her upside down like you said. My question though, is why wont she start? If the fliid is underneath the pistons then shouldnt it start? (worked fine before the coolant got in)

Also take a look at the updated image. i did as u said and hit them with a rubber mallet, but they didnt budge. I did notice though (as seen in the pic) that a few of the bolts came out entirely (not the nut itself) Now, with the ones that came out entirely, there was definitely much more relief on that area of the cylinders and i was able to slighly move the area up and down. for example bolt number 2 is one that came out (notice the height difference. Bolt number one just had the nut loosen off) the corner of the cyilinder of bolt number 2 can be moved slighly up and down (barely noticable, but still it can move) as opposed to all the other bolts that just had the nut loosen off which on those corners cant move at all. Are you positive its just a sticky gasket? because trust me, i was hitting them with a great amount of force to the point of being scared i would crack something. but ill most likely just turn the engine (or entire sled lol) upside down and drain it.

LASTLY, you lost me when you said, " If you do pull the engine, make sure to drain all the air out of the oil pump on reassembly and pre-mix the first tank of gas to make sure the oil pump is operating correctly"

JheLrey · 06-03-2012, 12:22 AM

The stud might be coming with the nut. No biggie. Is your exhaust removed? It should be the 4 base bolts on each cylinder. I know I had to give mine a slight wack.

JheLrey · 06-03-2012, 12:23 AM

Remove the carbs as well!

**BC_Dan** · 06-03-2012, 01:55 AM

The engine won't start if the crankcase is full of antifreeze. When air goes through the carbs, it mixes with gas and oil and goes into the crankcase. That happens on the up stroke of the piston. On the down stroke of the piston, the air/fuel/oil mix is pushed up through the intake ports by the piston into the cylinder to be burned. The antifreeze messes with the air/fuel mix and fouls the plugs. You have to get all of that out first before the air/fuel ratio will burn.

When you disconnect the oil pump, there will be air in the oil lines and in the oil pump. All that air has to be purged out before the engine starts. Oil pumps don't pump air very well, and if an air bubble happens to still exist, the oil pump won't operate correctly and you will have a lack of lubrication. That can toast your cylinders. Mixing the first tank of gas with oil at a 50:1 ratio or so will be insurance in case the oil pump doesn't work properly. Double oiling may foul a plug; under oiling or no oil ruins things pretty fast.

Like JheLrey said, the stud is coming out with the nut. The stud is threaded both ends, but usually the nut comes off. You may want to spray a little penetrating oil on the nut so it comes off instead of removing the stud. Corrosion and old gaskets can make cylinders difficult to remove, but the only thing holding the cylinder on is the base nuts. Removing the carbs makes it a lot easier to get to all the nuts.

**kccats** · 06-03-2012, 10:49 AM

Looks like a wild cat, there would be 2 more small nuts by the intake

creanzworld · 06-03-2012, 03:01 PM

thanks guys for the help. As far as the other two nuts-yes i got them as well but still doesnt make a difference.

I took the carbs off. they are very clean but i still put carb cleaner on them anyway. so they are pretty good looking. On the attached picture what is the connector for that im holding? They are on both carbs and are both disconnected. never had them conected and now im curious

Now instead of taking the engine off, is it the same as turning the sled upside down? heavy, i know, but with a few guys its not hard at all. Then i can just prop both ends up 2 feet off the ground. Once i have the sled upside down, what do i do? Just pull and pull the starter until i think its free of coolant and then maybe leave it upside down for a day? and for this ^^ lazy method, i keep the cylinder heads off right?

**RJ Gleason** · 06-03-2012, 03:59 PM

Slide position sensor. leave them unplugged.

**BC_Dan** · 06-03-2012, 05:39 PM

If you turn the sled upside down, make sure to drain the gas and oil tanks to prevent a mess. With the cylinders still on the block, you take a chance of filling the back side of the piston with antifreeze that will have nowhere to go. Before you start, make sure the pistons are in the middle of the stroke so the exhaust and intake ports are all open. As you tilt, go slow to allow what's in there to clear through the ports. I would coat the inside of the cylinders with oil before starting. I have NO idea if this will work. As easy as it is to pull the engine, I would just pull the engine.

creanzworld · 06-03-2012, 05:56 PM

How easy is it? I just skimmed over it real quick. Are there around 4 major nuts that hold it down? And yeah i may just take the engine off. I was actually thinking about mounting the 700c beast onto a dune buggy. so either way it will have to come off eventually. I heard its a relatively easy swap so well see what happens! But for now im obviously just trying to clear the liquid out and get it running. I appreciate the help guys. Anything else u think that might help me would be great! Ill be back if i encounter any issues

**kccats** · 06-03-2012, 09:04 PM

A rubber mallet will help, but only go front to back. Leave the motor in atleast till you get the jugs off.

**BC_Dan** · 06-03-2012, 11:18 PM

You have a lot of it done already, what else is left will be remove and plug the oil line, remove the oil pump cable, remove the motor mount bolts. Remove any wires. I would mark those, sometimes they use identical connectors for more than one application.

But like KC said, if you are going to remove the cylinders leave the engine in the sled until you break them free. That gives you a very solid base for the engine when you are tapping on it with a rubber mallet. Avoid at all costs the tendency to try to pry the cylinders off the crankcase. That almost always ends badly.

**kccats** · 06-04-2012, 07:32 AM

One other thing I've heard of is to put some nylon rope on top of the piston, and the head back on, then rotate the crank and tap on the cyl front and back!

93Wildcat700 · 06-05-2012, 01:16 PM

The Cylinders should NOT be super stuck on the block. I had to "tap" mine with a rubber mallet on each side like stated above..

They should literally Slide right off the piston...They are probably stuck to the base gaskets.. The tap with a hammer will jar them loose. only use rubber..

With the Cylinder bolts off.. All of them.. They should come right off. Also... Did you take off the Oil lines that go into the cylinders from the oil pump....

That would be the only thing holding them back at this point. You should be able to pull the cylinders off without flipping the whole sled over... However once the cylinders are off you will have a heck of a time getting into the bottom of the case with the crank in the way... Maybe a shopvac with a small hose to suck the coolant out?

ridegreen · 06-05-2012, 05:32 PM

If all 6 bolts are off then you should be able to slide them up, with a few smaks with a rubber mallet if need be. I didn't have a lick of problems with mine when I had to pull mine off, and my pistons were pretty much melted to the walls.

ridgerunner · 06-05-2012, 09:29 PM

if the cylinders are coming off this hard, something is stuck. are you sure it is just coolant in the base, or do you have some stuck rings? will the engine turn over as it sets (it should). also, once you DO get them off, you can flip the sled up, or I have had luck with a turkey injector. The hard plastic one with a big needle.... worked fine on my 700. but to the point on the cylinders, if you have the bolts/nuts off and they won't budge with a few gentle taps from a hammer, something is holding them.

**kccats** · 06-06-2012, 06:30 AM

Another thing to try is PB Blaster!

creanzworld · 06-06-2012, 10:15 PM

yeah they are pretty stuck on there. Im just going to take the engine off and turn it upside down with the current position im in (heads already off) from there hopefully i will find alot of coolant down in there so i can get it running again

93Wildcat700 · 06-07-2012, 02:16 PM

Heres my Opinion. If they are that stuck on there you need to figure out why that is because that isn't right. if they are warped you dont want to just keep running it.

If you go to take the motor out what year is it. if its a 99-00 it has the 4 corner mounts. just unbolt the 2 in front 1 in rear and 1 is in the plate that sits below the secondary.

You will need to pull the throttle /oil cables and unplug sensors. also you will have to pull the coolant hoses. When you put the motor back in you need to really check your measurements.. Center to center and offset is key.

If you dont want to get the cylinders off just flip the sled upside-down with the motor in it. Take your hood off and be gentile. its alot easier than pulling the motor.