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Old 02-09-2013, 08:35 AM   #21 (permalink)
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OK Again Big Bore, Big Power!
Have you bored the carbs? D&D has the Q4,Q6 and Q8 center jets, YES they are replaceable!
Next is your Floats, you have likely the 1.8 needle and seat, you can get the 2.0!
Careful on the fuel pump, the pentagone is about as good as you can get, Does your oil pump go into the fuel pump? or the carb boots?
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:39 PM   #22 (permalink)
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where are the center jets??

I just heard about the float level thing today. I didn't know the needle and seat were replacable where do you find the 2.0?

Oil pump goes to fuel pump

I pulled the heads off today. With that HUGE drilled out jet its running a little rich. I have a little extra wash. I will keep it this was for a little bit, and slowly back it off. I JUST assembled it a couple weeks ago.

I also heard about using F-7 needles on the D&D site, just have to get a set
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:46 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I wouldn't use a drilled out main jet! The 500 is about normal, the 2.0 is an opption! I dont know what needles are in the F7? But the needles are numbered and there is a chart!
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:54 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I don't want to use a drilled out main jet, that's why I have every size jet from 470-680. But the 680 seems a little lean. That drilled out one if my measurements are right should be close to a 740 maybe? used a 3/32" drill, so the hole is prolly a few thousanths bigger. When it was a 900 I had a 560 in it!!

All I know is I'm getting wash now, so I'm not worried about burning down. I wasn't before. Everything inside looks great! just a little too much on the wash.

Definetly need to go to the 2.0. A racer up here that does alot of big motors said I should have a bigger pump, so I still got a high flow pump coming. They are only $50! Then I should be able to run reasonable sized jets.
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:11 AM   #25 (permalink)
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My Big Twin is well over 200hp and Im under 500 mains!
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:13 PM   #26 (permalink)
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ok, well what is done to it? If everything is just about the same, and our elev. is close (I'm only at 500-1000ft) we should have the same thing. I've always needed a big jet since I started tweeking the 900 and put twins on it. with a single pipe it was only at a 480-490.

Now it's a 1010 with slight port work, just smoothening out really. 2 degree timing key. Got VF3's and spacers. Made my intake with short Aluminum pipe 90's to cone filters(not for performance, for ease of taking carbs out). Got rid of the powervalves (again, not for performance.) And it has 1010 D&D twin pipes. Really pretty basic, but it seems to want way more fuel than it should!
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:28 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Mine is a bit bigger and has full ported cases as well! It has BIG Jaws pipes and compression is 165!
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:29 AM   #28 (permalink)
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So why does mine want so much more fuel? If I thought a huge jet was normal, I wouldn't be here asking about it haha. There must be something in the carb I've overlooked, I'm trying to find out what. My air screw is at 1 3/4 turns, and mixture screw is at 1 1/2

what is your elevation?
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Old 02-11-2013, 12:08 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Im at 500ft as well! Your Problem is the 1.8 needle and seat! All you need to do is get the 2.0 and you can go back to 480 mains! And loose the filters! I moded the stock air box with a power breather!
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Old 02-11-2013, 01:49 PM   #30 (permalink)
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see I never knew about the needle and seat. This makes sense to me! I knew those big jets weren't right. That's why I was asking about it. surprised NO ONE else has ever told be about the needle and seat. I didn't know they made bigger ones!


And I'll never go back to the airbox. I used to have a gutted airbox with the D&D powerbreather. I like it much more the way it is. WAY easier to work around, and it looks pretty trick as a bonus haha I still have that airbox and everything I need to use it, but I wont. It can stay in the big tote will all the other stock parts!
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:38 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I gotta agree with KC warm air vs cold air, your losing power.. anything that draws air under your hood isnt gonna help your HP. Cold air is the key!
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:37 PM   #32 (permalink)
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And the Pods will really rob you air flow! If you rework your stock air box and cut off the bottom of the unused section and get the power breather it really is VERY simple to pop in and out!
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:48 PM   #33 (permalink)
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You think the air in there is that warm?? how do you know it makes so much of a difference? did you not know the hood is mostly vents?? haha Ya the air might be slightly warmer, but I garuntee it makes no difference, maybe 2 hp?! I'm not changing it. You forget that I used to run it with the gutted airbox and power breather, for like 3-4 seasons! Maybe if you could see how I did it you wouldn't be so against it. If the air really is this much warmer like you claim, and I'm losing that much power like you claim, why am I needing soo much fuel? it's not running too rich either, the plug isn't black. It's a little darker, but not much. and the jet is big enough to put a 3/32 TIG wire through! That's not a little big, that's WAY too big.

I guess nevermind. If you guys are stuck on the fact I have no airbox, than I have no reason to be here. I'll get it on my own, you guys haven't been much help. How many race sleds have you ever seen with an airbox??? that's pretty much what I'm building here. I don't trail ride.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:06 AM   #34 (permalink)
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If you go over to Arctic Chat and talk to Kev or any of the other racers, they will tell you the same thing.
They also have Dynomometer proof to back it up, and it's more than just 2-3 hp difference.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:07 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Re: ZR 900 too slow

I run these with a gutted hood and no rear console and it makes a world of difference compared to my old filters getting that colder air is like night and day over warm air

ZR 900 too slow-uploadfromtaptalk1360768067647.jpg
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:18 AM   #36 (permalink)
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DUDE! You are shooting yourself in the foot! You don't have enough Volume of air with that! And you are going to really fatige your carb boots too!
If you have a gutted air box and a power breather, do you have the holes in the hood with the frog screen on it? If you remove the 2 screws that hold the lid on you can get right at the rubber for the carbs! And if you cut off the bottom of the other side and just screw a piece of plywood in it, it will be simple to p[op in and out!
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Old 02-13-2013, 06:15 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Re: ZR 900 too slow

Quote:
Originally Posted by kccats View Post
DUDE! You are shooting yourself in the foot! You don't have enough Volume of air with that! And you are going to really fatige your carb boots too!
Is this directed at me
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:30 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Grassdragger, I like it! I was planning on making some ductwork to channel some cold air to my air filters in the future. Your setup seems original to me, but I like the theory. pretty cool!

And on the dyno, you have no 15-25 degree cold air coming in the vents( and I'm sure anytime your going over 30 there lots of it), so OF COURSE IT WILL MAKE LESS POWER!!!

Obviously warm air is less dense, so therefor less oxygen to accelerate the fuel burn. I know it will have less potential energy if you will, making less power. Blah blah blah it's common sense man, but is it enough to matter in this application where I'm cranking along in cold winter temps with lots of vents in the hood? probably not. I mean sure for all out strictly racing I would make sure i had the coldest air possible. In racing EVERY little thing adds up and that's how you win. Well that and a driver who isn't scared of anything! haha

if you really wanted to get picky, I but you gain a little bit with any kinda of pipe before the carb regardless of cold air or warm air. The air is probably not as turbulent. Bad for fuel atomization, but better for flow and scavenging effect. That's why you see every old carb'ed high end race car has velocity stacks. airflow is airflow.

oh ya, and of course if you unscrew the top of the airbox you can get at the rubber boots that go over the carbs. How else would you do it without taking the cover off??? I used to persuade the rubber over the carb with a long dull regular screwdriver. It's still BS tho. JUNK!

THE ONLY thing I have to undo to get my carbs out is the 2 clamps holding them onto the boots at the reeds. The way it should be. It's a toy, it should be simple.
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Last edited by LedheadELH; 02-13-2013 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:52 PM   #39 (permalink)
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when did this become an intake discussion? it doesn't matter! what about my carbs? that's what I was after here. I am gonna try a couple of things. the F-7 stuff, and the float needle and seat. In theory both those should help.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:24 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Do the 2.0 needle and seat! Call RV Sports in Thief!
Do yourself a favor, once you get the 2.0's in, set up a mesured distance say 1/4 or 1/8 mi. And run it see where you are in speed. Then go back and put the stock air box with the power breather on and go run it again!
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