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Old 03-13-2010, 01:05 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cylinder honing...

Hi all...I've got a bottle hone to do my cylinders. I need to know how much to "hone". I've heard that around 1 minute is good, but with the hard Nickisil coating will that be enough? I also heard to plunge up and down at a rate of around 30 strokes per minute, then a little faster for the last 10, to acheive the cross hatching...any other opinions? Thanks!
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Old 03-13-2010, 01:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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what is wrong with the cylinder that you think that it needs to be honed??? usually not a good idea to hone a nikasil cylinder as it will most likely chip it if there is a scratch or nick in it... even when you do hone a nicasil cylinder all you are doing is deglazing it as nikasil is to hard to hone unless you have a diamond hone, the best and safest way to do this is with wd40 and some scotchbrite.. i know people will tell you that they hone their nikasil cylinders all the time, but if the cross hatch pattern is gone on the nikasil it is time to get it redone..
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Old 03-13-2010, 02:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I've got the OEM manual from A/C...It states that the cylinders should be honed if "marks are found"(even has a pic of a bottle hone halfway in a cylinder). Just need to know how long to actually "hone" it for due to the increased hardness...as the manual only states the rate (30 strokes per minute), not the duration. (1min? 2 min?)
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Old 03-13-2010, 02:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I would say until you can see the cross hatching that you are making with the hone! Or until the scratch is muted out
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Old 03-13-2010, 03:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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honing with that type of hone will only deglaze the cylinder, it will not put new cross hatchings in it just reveal the original ones in it, nikasil is too hard to hone unless you have a diamond hone like i said before.. call any reputable machine shop that deals with nikasil and they will tell you not to do it even if your manual says to do it... you are far better off just using a scotchbrite pad and wd 40 otherwise you stand the cahnce of chipping it, especially if there is scratches in it...
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Old 03-13-2010, 06:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Always hone with new rings! I use a standard stone hone with lotsa wd40! But only about 30 seconds! As long as after you wipe it out you can see hash marks!
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Old 03-13-2010, 08:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Always hone with new rings! I use a standard stone hone with lotsa wd40! But only about 30 seconds! As long as after you wipe it out you can see hash marks!
cast iron bore yes, nikasil NO.... if you were to use any hone a standard stone would be the worst one to use, it is really likely to catch the port edges and chio off the plating!!!!
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Old 03-13-2010, 09:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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here is a little knowledge for ya'll... i work at a performance shop and would never stick a hone down a Nikasil cylinder, i repeat never, i don't care if your manual says to do it or not!!!! Honing is always done on the old iron cylinders, but NOT necessarily on the Nikasil/Galnikal cylinders. The crosshatch pattern is very important for ring wear, ring rotation, and even piston groove wear. The accepted proper angle is about 28. If the angle is too steep, then starts can be rather dry, with fast ring wear and piston wear.

If you must, or want to, hone a Nikasil/Galnikal cylinder, use ONLY the "Brush Flex-Hone" which is also called a Ball Hone. Use ONLY the aluminum oxide 240 hone. Do NOT use the silicon carbide hone 320, as there can be a potential problem with that fast cutting hone. The purpose of the honing on Nikasil/Galnikal is simply to deglaze and clean up. I simply use 3M green pads, soap and water....I don't hone Nikasil.
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:11 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Ok...so let me get this straight...Even though the manual, published by Arctic Cat, used in their factory authorized dealers shops says TO hone...others here say not to. Why on earth would they publish such a(according to some)grievous error, one which apparently will have the potential to ruin the cylinder/engine.? I believe every A/C motor built since the 80's is Nikasil...and also believe every manual states that when new rings are used...hone the cylinder. No mention of the scotchbrite/soap method...
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:09 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Alright straight from Krouse At US Chrome in Wi! NO flex ball hone! STD! LOTSA OIL! If a stone hone flaces the plating, then a ring would!!! I've been honing Plated cyl ever since they came out! If you dont the rings will never seat!
Do as you wish, but I say to call ALL the different plating places, US Chrome is who I use, there are several others!
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Old 03-15-2010, 03:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Oh, I'm going to hone...(using a flex ball...just paid $30 for it!) My ORIGINAL question was NOT "to hone or not to hone", rather...how LONG do I need to run it through!. And A/C recommends a cross hatch of 60 degrees...the rings don't ever move, once locked in place by the allignment pins in the piston.
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:41 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by snownstunt600 View Post
you are far better off just using a scotchbrite pad and wd 40 otherwise you stand the cahnce of chipping it, especially if there is scratches in it...
So i've got my AC efi 600 pulled apart, and decided to give this a try. After 3000 miles, I can attest scotchbrite and wd40 works! I didn't think there was any honing left there. After a couple minutes of scrubbing it looked like new! It looks like it was freshly honed from the factory.
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Old 03-16-2010, 10:44 AM   #13 (permalink)
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So i've got my AC efi 600 pulled apart, and decided to give this a try. After 3000 miles, I can attest scotchbrite and wd40 works! I didn't think there was any honing left there. After a couple minutes of scrubbing it looked like new! It looks like it was freshly honed from the factory.
glad it worked for you!!!!
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Old 03-18-2010, 08:03 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Finished...The bottle hone worked like a champ...Used WD40 as a lubricant. Ran for 45 seconds slow and steady, the the last 15 quickly, washed the whole works in hot soapy water...looks like new!...and NO chips!
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