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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Oil/Fuel line priming...

I'm planning on replacing all of my fuel/oil lines when I install my new carbs,(and check the oil pump adjustment...as long as they're out) as they look to be old, and are starting to discolor pretty badly. I assume the fuel lines will pretty much prime themselves with full choke on, and a few pulls of the cord.
My concern is with priming the oil lines. Will they also prime themselves, or is there a procedure for this?

Here is what I was thinking: I would ride the tank down to about 2 gallons...premix the fuel @50:1...change everything...then start and go...assuming the oil will eventually prime itself. I realize it will smoke like the dickens once there is both premix, and injection working...and may have to clean the plugs...but at least I KNOW there will be oil at the cylinders. Am I wayyyy off base with this?
Thanks

"Well, boys, we got three engines out, we got more holes in us than a horse trader's mule, the radio is gone and we're leaking fuel and if we was flying any lower why we'd need sleigh bells on this thing"

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 05:15 PM
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Change the oil line on the fly! And the oil will be coming out when you get it to the pump! The fuel just blow into the tank and it will prime!
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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So go ahead just premix and ride...it'll prime itself?

"Well, boys, we got three engines out, we got more holes in us than a horse trader's mule, the radio is gone and we're leaking fuel and if we was flying any lower why we'd need sleigh bells on this thing"

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 05:37 PM
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There is a little bleeder on the oil pump, just put in the new oil line then loosen the bleeder bolt until oil flows out, tighten it up and your good to go. VERY easy, no need to mess with premixing and such.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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OK...Kinda thought there may be some sort of bleeder somewhere...It's got 5K miles on it. As long as I've got access to it, is it prudent to maybe replace it with a good, used, lower mileage one, or are these things pretty reliable?

"Well, boys, we got three engines out, we got more holes in us than a horse trader's mule, the radio is gone and we're leaking fuel and if we was flying any lower why we'd need sleigh bells on this thing"

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 05:45 PM
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They are very reliable, most of the time oil related engine failure is cause by bad injector lines.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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OK...Thanks for the help!

"Well, boys, we got three engines out, we got more holes in us than a horse trader's mule, the radio is gone and we're leaking fuel and if we was flying any lower why we'd need sleigh bells on this thing"

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'94 Arctic Cat Cougar
'73 Arctic Cat Panther
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-31-2010, 09:41 PM
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oil

I would do a premix.spark plugs are cheaper than pistons and a bore job.hope this helps.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-01-2010, 11:45 PM
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There is a bleeder bolt on the pump after the oil line is reconnected you want to make sure and remove the bolt and let the oil flow until there are no air bubbles in the line from the oil tank to the pump and an you are getting good flow out of the bleeder with no bubbles.

Run the PRE MIX UNTIL you are sure the oil level in the tank is responding to the amount of gas you have used.


I have a copy of the 2003 Arctic Cat set up instructions that the dealers are supposed to use to set up a new sled out of the crate and it has a the procedure in it. I can't do it tonight but id you want I can scan it to a PDF and email it to you.

There's also a tech tip article link about it here http://www.snowmobileforum.com/engin...-tos-here.html

It's a Polaris perspective but it is pretty much spot on.

Russ Neal
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originally from Willsboro, NY
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