Antifreeze question - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

98zr600 · 11-06-2009, 12:34 PM

My 98 zr 600's antifreeze is low, based on the fill line, and its not that bright green you normally see in antifreeze, should i just drain it and refill it before the season starts? or should i just top it off. Im new to maintaining a sled and want to do this the right way. Thank you.

**BC_Dan** · 11-06-2009, 01:38 PM

It never hurts to drain and refill every couple of years. The additives in antifreeze do go bad over time. I would drain and refill. Make sure you get all the air out of the system when you do. When I had my zr's, idling the sleds with the cap off for a few minutes usually got all the air out. If you have the engine higher than the tunnel when filling, air doesn't get trapped in the rear heat exchanger as easily, either.

98zr600 · 11-06-2009, 01:42 PM

Great thank you for the imput, i will definately drain it.

jkust · 11-06-2009, 02:47 PM

A great tip I got on changing the coolant on my 98 ZR 600 is to suck it out with a shop vac. Also, you can buy a tester to test the antifreezes effectiveness for a couple of bucks.

98zr600 · 11-06-2009, 03:40 PM

I used the shop vac method it worked very well and fast, i had already picked up the coolant so i just put in fresh. Thanks Again

98zr600 · 11-06-2009, 03:45 PM

I also noticed my chain case is a little low on fluid, what type of fluid do i add to bring it up to the proper fill line? my manual just tells me use arctic cat lube p/n 0636-817

**BC_Dan** · 11-06-2009, 04:02 PM

I would drain all the old chaincase oil out and refill as well. It is a yearly thing for me, it allows me to get a look at the chain and sprockets and to see if the bolts holding the sprockets on are tight. (Polaris has issues with the bottom one).

The product AC suggests is probably a light-weight chaincase oil. You can use that, but a lot of guys use ATF fluid with good results. Even motor oil will work. Some guys go with a gear oil, but gear oil is very thick, especially when cold. For a chain and sprockets, a thinner oil is suggested, so that the lubrication can penetrate the plates on the chain.

There should be a drain on your chaincase that is accessable from under the sled, you can use that to drain. Or, tip the sled on it's side (chaincase side up) and remove the chaincase cover, That will allow you to suck the oil out with no mess. I use WD-40 to clean all the left-over debris out, then put the cover back on and refill. I'm heading out to the garage to do exactly this on my 700!

You should check the adjustment on the chain (if it has the manual adjuster, no mechanical reverse). If so, there is a bolt with a lock nut toward the front of the chaincase that puts tension on the chain adjuster. Loosen the lock nut, tighten the bolt finger tight, then back off 1/4 turn. Retighten the lock nut. You don't want the chain too tight, it will cause abnormal wear...

98zr600 · 11-06-2009, 04:07 PM

Thanks alot Dan, good detailed information. Ok well im going to head out and get this done !

DoubleClutch · 11-06-2009, 06:53 PM

Ok guys I'm going out and change my coolent and chain case lube tomarrow sence I just got this sled and don't want any problems.

**kccats** · 11-06-2009, 07:14 PM

If you drain the chain case then you know you have it full with 8oz! and be sure to raise the front end up on the sled to refill the coolant!

TCOLLINS · 11-06-2009, 07:47 PM

Hopefully ATF works well in the chaincase. Thats what I used in my SRV when I chanded the chain. I will find out this Winter.

98zr600 · 11-06-2009, 08:32 PM

Unfortunately i didnt lift the front end when i changed my coolant, but i did run it for a while with the cap off, and seems to be good, im glad i did change it too it was pretty nasty coolant.

**BC_Dan** · 11-06-2009, 09:40 PM

Just carry a bottle of pre-mixed coolant with you on that first ride, and check often...