1994 Pantera 550cc EFI chain tensioner problem. - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

Snowburn · 11-05-2009, 06:18 AM

Last year after a long winters use my wifes Pantera started to skip when forced so this summer I took apart the drop case and notice the small spring for the tensioner was broke. So I recently purchased another from a dealer but when I installed it it seems to long or something. The tensioner bracket that is suppose to engage the ratchet block does not. I took pictures and sent them to the dealer but was told the pictures were not good enough and that I would have to bring the sled to them. Now ther is no doubt the pictures I sent to them should have given them enough insight to let me know something but then again they want my cash for the service so.

The sled is apart in my garage and I would like to fix it there myelf instead of the other. Any help would be appreciated. I have a manual, the same that is posyed on this site but there is no front full view to show me what up.

Snowburn all the way !

**kccats** · 11-05-2009, 08:27 AM

I've never been a fan of that style adjuster, I took nine off and just used a regular bolt style! Remove the entire arm as well as the ratchet block! Something could be bent on the back side! If the chain had been ratcheting you may need a new chain and poss a top gear too!

Snowburn · 11-05-2009, 08:39 AM

1st Thanks for the info, any helps me work through this dilema of mine. Last year when the ratcheting started the sled was parked right away and after close inspection the chain and all gears are in great shape. I installed the spring not knowing if it is indeed the right one trusting the dealer and still could not figure out what was the problem. As the pics show just with the tensioner bracket/roller not engaged the spring is already loose and when I pull back to engage it the spring jams together and comes off. I have tried to figure it out which should be straight forward but then again for me maybe not.

You said you just removed this setup and installed a regualr bolt style ? What exactly is this setup and do you have any pics and info that may be to my advantage to use ?

Thanks again.

**RJ Gleason** · 11-05-2009, 12:39 PM

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Snowburn · 11-05-2009, 01:47 PM

I just spent another hour going through my manual and the uplinks from this forum and still can't see whats up. As the pictures show, the new spring is on. Is it, the roller and bracket where they should be when engine is not running aligned with the ratchet block ? Or is something off. As for the roller and bracket how tight should it be ? I figured tight enough where it is not loose but as to where the roller will turn ?
When adjusting during installation is the roller suppose to touch chain ?
Is there anywhere I could look at a fully assembled front view of this assembly. It would help for comparison.

I appreciate all the info.

I 1st decided to start this project in July but when I went to the dealer I use to deal with they told me the spring was on hold for a few months and to come back in September in which I did not until a few weeks ago. I figured it was no rush and a easy repair. Well for some reason it is not and when I sent the dealer my pics of the problem and their spring they told me it was impossible to figure it out with pics and need to see the sled. No doubt they want to make some cash in which I do not want to give to them, especially after not even leading me in any direction with info on whats up with this repair so I could fix it myself.

So my search continues.

Thats why my name is Snowburn, I have been burned by a few so called snowmobile mechanics due to my passion for the sport and trust in the others surrounding this journey so now I trust not many who will not even give some free info when for years my cash has entered their accounts.

So I decided to turn to other snowmobilers who may have been burned a few times as well and here I am.

It is what it is

Snowburn · 11-06-2009, 05:35 AM

Is it possible the top sprocket along with the chain is worn enough to cause the tensioner roller to be so far off the ratchet block as shown in picture ? I was wondering if I change these for 2 new ones if it would make the differance pushing back the roller allowing the tensioner to engage on the ratchet block there for stretching out the spring as should be.

As in picture chain is more in a hour glass shape just in free style and I thought maybe the oval shape would be the norm.

**kccats** · 11-06-2009, 09:06 AM

Did you take the tenssioner off? With the chain off hold it up and see how much it rainbows! It should arch about an inch or so! If the chain has streched it could be that the adjuster is out of reach! The chain should be tight and roller not turn! There shouls be just a slight movement on the straight side!
What I did was I got the manual adjuster bolt! It is just that! There is a hex plug in the front of the chain case, remove it and then there is a hex bushing that is taped! Then the bolt goes threw it and pushes against the roller!

Snowburn · 11-06-2009, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kccats

Did you take the tenssioner off? With the chain off hold it up and see how much it rainbows! It should arch about an inch or so! If the chain has streched it could be that the adjuster is out of reach! The chain should be tight and roller not turn! There shouls be just a slight movement on the straight side!
What I did was I got the manual adjuster bolt! It is just that! There is a hex plug in the front of the chain case, remove it and then there is a hex bushing that is taped! Then the bolt goes threw it and pushes against the roller!

Yes I have had the tensioner off a few times. The chain does not arch at all and when installed it is far from straight allowing I believe for the chain tensioner to be to far off the block hence maybe breaking the spring when the roller bracket twisted downward. So I take it then my model already has the threaded hex bushing for the bolt manual adjuster ?

Your info has been of great help and later today I am going to check it out closely. I think now from what I have seen the upper sprocket/gear and and chain are so warn out it caused the tensioner to be to far off the block . I am going to buy both of these and then check it again and hopefully figure it out. I may eventually still change over to the manual design though.

Do you know under so called normal operating conditions how long a sprocket and chain should last takin into account the operational mode and regualar changes of Oil. I know this sled was bought from a guy who knows little and does little to anything he drives as far as maintenance goes. The dropcase was almost dry and the drain plug was loose and missing the fiber gasket probably allowing it to leak for a long time. I was considering maybe this kind of neglect created the heating/wearing out of the parts so fast. The sled has only just under 14.000 KM. we only put about 150 KM on it since we bought it last season and had to park it. Other then this, it runs very well and has plenty of power all the way around.

Thanks again.

**kccats** · 11-06-2009, 07:29 PM

30000- 4000 Mi!