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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Drive shaft bearings

Last year I bought a 95 Z440 clean one owner sled. late in the season the speedometer stopped working. This year I was preping the sled for the year and fixing the speedometer was on my list. The spring cable adapter is broken. The drive shaft dosn't seam lose but there seams to be more of a gap (toward the front) between the shaft and the outer race. How do I tell if I need to replace the bearings Thanks eddy622611
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 01:19 PM
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When you grab the shaft and wiggle it around (Dirty), do you see play by the bearing?

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by eddy622611 View Post
Last year I bought a 95 Z440 clean one owner sled. late in the season the speedometer stopped working. This year I was preping the sled for the year and fixing the speedometer was on my list. The spring cable adapter is broken. The drive shaft dosn't seam lose but there seams to be more of a gap (toward the front) between the shaft and the outer race. How do I tell if I need to replace the bearings Thanks eddy622611
you should loosen track up to check for play as tack tension loads the bearing and makes it hard to move shaft and check for play. loosen track raise sled get a mechanics stethoscope or long screwdriver put handle end up to youre ear and have a friend turn secondary clutch as you put tip of screwdriver or mechanics stethocope up to bearing housig inside and out listen for crunching noise . when speedo is broke if you take adapter off at left driveshaft bearing and little piece of speedo cable is broke usually the bearing is what causes that. you will have to push and pull hard on driveshaft to check for play. if you have someone turn secondary clutch and you put hand on driveshaft you may feel crunching or rough spots.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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I just pulled the clutch and with the clutch out of the way I could see much better. I took a small pry bar and put it between the shaft and one of the bolts. There is alot of play. Looks bearing replacement is nessasary. If everything comes apart easily. It dosen't look like it should be too difficult. Is there anything that I should look out for? How bad is it to loosen the lock collars and to remove the shaft after you have everything else apart? Any help would be great. Thanks eddy622611
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 03:28 PM
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since you have the shaft out, replace the bearing in the chain case at the same time.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have it apart yet, but I'm pretty fussy, and plan to replace both bearings and what ever else it needs. I was just looking for some advice so I don't do anything too stupid. You guys are great. I knew if I asked there would be plenty of people willing to help. Thanks eddy622611
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 06:02 PM
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Take lots of pictures so when you put the bearing retainers on, you put 'em on the same way they came off. That will save you from pulling some of your hair out.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-02-2008, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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That is a good idea about taking pictures. The service manual talks about removing the driven shaft, but I don't have to remove the driven shaft to replace the bearings on the drive shaft do I? Someone has been into this before they had two washers on each carriage bolt between the flange plate and the drive adapter. I'm going to take it apart in the moring. Hopefully the local dealer has the parts instock. They have been pretty good so far. I'll post tomorrow on how it is going. Thanks eddy622611
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-03-2008, 07:58 AM
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Just a tip for you......instead of a dealer, go to a bearing/industrial supply outlet to get replacement bearings. Those are very common...usually 1" spherical with any variation of shaft lock (cam lock ring or integral collar with set screws, etc.) & will be about 1/3 the price.
Good luck!! Be glad you found it in the garage & not out on the trail!!

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-03-2008, 09:31 AM
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What do you do when your hair is only 1/8 inch long? Can't really pull it out!

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-03-2008, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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I pulled the drive shaft out this morning. Everything went smooth. The only concerns that I have are the manual said that there would washers behind the upper sprocket and I didn't have any. Also somebody had put washers under the speedometer drive adapter. I'm hopeing that was some kind of jury rig to try and compensate for the bad bearing. The biggest problem was finding parts. I had to call 4 dealers till I found one that had everything in stock and they were 50 miles away. So after a 3 hour round trip I have all the parts to put it back together in the morning. They were very helpfull and told to put the drop case side together completely before tightening the flange bolts or the locking collar on the pto side. Thanks eddy622611
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-03-2008, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
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IndianRvrShiver, I wasn't sure where any industrial bearing supply houses were located. It just seamed easier to buy from a dealer. Maybe after I do this one time I'll have more confidence next time. thanks for the tip though. eddy622611
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-03-2008, 08:18 PM
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Just look up bearings in the yellow pages.com and put in your zip

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-04-2008, 01:40 AM
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NAPA,TSC AutoZone will have the bearings that you need.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-05-2008, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Yesterday, I put everything back together. All said and done it wasn't that bad. I had $80. in parts and don't even want to say how much time. I am sure if I ever have too do it again, it will go much easier. The rear suspension seems to be in good shape. I had just replaced the wearstrips and two wheels. The track looks in worse shape on the garage floor, than it did under the sled. It will be fine for this year I'm sure. Thanks for all the help.
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