mlange

Need some help before I create a money pit. Basically I picked up the sled for very little money. It ran but only idled. Took it to a dealer for diag and was told it needed a coolant temp sensor, #2 injector and air temp sensor.

I have replaced all these items and it will still only idle. I did disconnect the throttle position sensor and it will rev to 4K but not much more.

Any suggestions? I noticed that the throttle switch has the three wires taped together but the dealer did not mention anything about that.

kccats

I would start with the fuel pump! Remove it and clean the smart valves, then check for volume and then presure! I had one that the hose fitting on the bottom of the pump was like crimped on and was loose! Sometimes it would run good others barely idle?

mlange

I checked fuel pressure andit holds a steady 40 psi at idle and there i sdefinately enough volume. When I initially turn the key, the pressure goes to 60 psi if i block of the return line so I'm riling out fuel as a problem.

What about the stator? At idle I disconnected the battery and it barely runs. Hook the battery back up and it idles perfectly. Isn't the stator supposed to have the capacity to not only supply current to the EFI but keep the battery charged? It appears the capacity is not there.

Thoughts?

aquaman40

It's so wierd that there are so many similar problems regarding EFI battery and running issues. Read my post from a few days ago " 95 wildcat EFI problems, please help", thread. Maybe that will help. I am at the point where I just bought another stator off of ebay and hopefully be able to cure my problem. Good Luck

Idlejunk

Try hooking a battery charger up to your battery with it idling. Lift up the track and see if it goes. The Battery EFI sleds don't make enough juice at idle to do anything other than that. A weak battery could be the cause.

It's kind of a bad joke - got stuck last year with a weak battery - it started and idled just fine - if that all you wanted.... Put in a new battery and away I went.

SkiDooFormulaMX

hooking up a battery charger, on an efi, with the ecu connected is a bad and can be a very costly idea. always unplug the ecu before charging.

__________________
2003 ARCTIC CAT ZL 600 EFI SS-2700 MILES-GETTING SOME MILD TWEAKING THIS SUMMER

2002 ARCTIC CAT Z 440 ES-622 MILES-MINT, JUST LOOKING FOR SOME STUDS AND FATBOY TORSIONS.

1997 ARCTIC CAT EXT 580 EFI DLX 4000 MILES-SOLD 8/08

1998 ARCTIC CAT ZR 600 EFI-3700 MILES-BUILT-SOLD-9/07

1996 INDY CLASSIC 500 ESR-5100 MILES-SOLD 4/08

1987 SKI DOO FORMULA MX 470-12000 MILES-SOLD 12/07

Idlejunk

Ok - then just try a new battery.... Easiest and cheapest route...

mlange

Pulled the stator. Green to Black shows 46 ohms. Green and Brown...3,800 ohms. Isn't the spec on the Green to Brown supposed to be around 450 ohms?

mlange

I just heated up the stator to 150 degrees. I remeasured the stator and found the black-green resistance at 50ohms which is within spec however the brown(red)-green resistance jumped to 11,000 ohms. This reading jumped considerably from 70 degrees when it was 3,800 ohms and at 30 degrees when I had 1,400 ohms. I can assume this stator is toast?