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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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top end rebuild advice

ive never done a top end rebuild on a sled motor before. just looking for some friendly advice, maybe some do's and dont's during the process, and anything that will make it go a little smoother. i see that this site holds some great advice in the engine section as well. since i have to do the one piston, i figured i should do the other as well. what do i need to do to make sure that the cylinder size correlates correctly with the new piston. im just going to buy the standard size, but i imagine that i will have to have them honed??

99 ZR 600 efi, D&D exhaust, silencer, and chip, studded, kimpex shotgun, clutch kit, new skiis, custom paint, rebuilt + upgraded suspension, and only 1600 miles.

96 zr 580 swapped with a 700 motor, studded, 2000
style handle bars and 2" riser. dual carbide skiis.

please lord i need snow
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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by the way, the new set of pistons, rings, pins, and clips, as well as a top end gasket set is going to be about $110 or less. they are spi pistons and a winderosa gasket set. anyone have any feedback on these products?

99 ZR 600 efi, D&D exhaust, silencer, and chip, studded, kimpex shotgun, clutch kit, new skiis, custom paint, rebuilt + upgraded suspension, and only 1600 miles.

96 zr 580 swapped with a 700 motor, studded, 2000
style handle bars and 2" riser. dual carbide skiis.

please lord i need snow
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 07:58 PM
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I use winderosa gaskets. Good stuff. I always use OEM pistons and rings. Much better quality than Kimpex or SPI. Unless it needs to be bored out, stick with standard size.

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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wheres a good place to find oem piston kits??

99 ZR 600 efi, D&D exhaust, silencer, and chip, studded, kimpex shotgun, clutch kit, new skiis, custom paint, rebuilt + upgraded suspension, and only 1600 miles.

96 zr 580 swapped with a 700 motor, studded, 2000
style handle bars and 2" riser. dual carbide skiis.

please lord i need snow
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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and do i necessarily need to bore the cylinders?

99 ZR 600 efi, D&D exhaust, silencer, and chip, studded, kimpex shotgun, clutch kit, new skiis, custom paint, rebuilt + upgraded suspension, and only 1600 miles.

96 zr 580 swapped with a 700 motor, studded, 2000
style handle bars and 2" riser. dual carbide skiis.

please lord i need snow
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 08:23 PM
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Don't bore unless the cylinder is messed up. OEM is just that, get from a dealer. But I've found them on eBay before.

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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sounds good, thanks. i was wondering about tools i might need to get the circlips in and out the rings as well. we have tons of crap here, but i dont think ive got a ring compressor.

99 ZR 600 efi, D&D exhaust, silencer, and chip, studded, kimpex shotgun, clutch kit, new skiis, custom paint, rebuilt + upgraded suspension, and only 1600 miles.

96 zr 580 swapped with a 700 motor, studded, 2000
style handle bars and 2" riser. dual carbide skiis.

please lord i need snow
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 08:41 PM
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Needle nose pliers for the circlips, then a socket and soft hammer for the wrist pins. You should be able to get the rings on by hand with finesse.

1992 Ski Doo Mach 1 (SC-10/2 suspended) March '07 SF.com Sled of the Month! (Lost in fire 4-7-13)
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-06-2007, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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thanks again, and ill try to post some pics this weekend of the damage to the cylinder.

99 ZR 600 efi, D&D exhaust, silencer, and chip, studded, kimpex shotgun, clutch kit, new skiis, custom paint, rebuilt + upgraded suspension, and only 1600 miles.

96 zr 580 swapped with a 700 motor, studded, 2000
style handle bars and 2" riser. dual carbide skiis.

please lord i need snow
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 06:50 PM
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hope its not to late, make sure to use either 2 stroke oil or a good assembly lube. Put a thumb nails worth on your lower piston skirts. You can always foul a plug or two during start up, but you dont want to score piston skirts on initial startup. Don't be scarce with the lube. Hope this helps.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-10-2007, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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i just got the top end of the motor torn apart tonight. there is a crater burned in the top of the recoil side piston (right in the center), with some seizure damage towards the exhaust port. the pto side looks beauitiful. in fact, so beauitiful that its obvious that that side has a new piston. the two dont even match. there is some slight scoring to the recoil cylinder, and it looks like im going to have to hone them. im going to call for pricing and advice tommorow to a local machine shop. my big question is, what caused the failure, and how can i prevent it. i was reading the page on piston diagnosis, and is says the failure may be a result of too lean jetting, too high compression, too low octane, air leak at the magneto crank seal, ect, ect. im going to do some research on this motor, and try to determine what went wrong. also, im going to thoroughly clean the carbs while they are out. how would i determing my correct ignition timing?? and any other advice/commentary would be appreciated.

99 ZR 600 efi, D&D exhaust, silencer, and chip, studded, kimpex shotgun, clutch kit, new skiis, custom paint, rebuilt + upgraded suspension, and only 1600 miles.

96 zr 580 swapped with a 700 motor, studded, 2000
style handle bars and 2" riser. dual carbide skiis.

please lord i need snow
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 01:08 AM
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When you get ready to remove the stator, mark it and the mounts so that it goes back in exactly the same spot.
The crater definitely indicates a lean condition, therefore, I would be looking at the carb mounting flange first for cracks/holes. If you do not find any, then most likely it was the mag seal. In which case, you will have to split the crank case to change it. Now, as long as you have it apart this far, you might as well replace all the crank seals and do the job right.

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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 06:45 AM
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Is this the Wild Cat? To get the alum off the cyl use miratic acid and a tooth brush! Tis will eat the lum but not the crome! then a real light hone with plenty of oil, clean and again, clean with hot water and then WD40 it all! If the plating is gone even in one small place have it recromed. If the other cyl is sleved the I would hind another sleved cyl, I have one if you still need it!
The other thing to do would be to clean up the ports! Useing a die grinder knife edge the transfer ports and look at the exhaust if there is any edges that are ruff smooth them out! Good time for reeds too!
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 04:56 PM
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Yes, its defininetly from a lean condition. Some diagnostic tips look in the exhaust manifold hole of the bad cylinder any carbon? Definetly check the mag seal make sure the spring is in the seal compare the jetting on the carburators and main slide needle postions.Check the lower end bearings for any roughness to low a grade fuel will cause detonation usually resulting in burned hole in piston. Hope some of this helps.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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tonight i dropped off the cylinders to a local machine shop, he also told me that it was definatly from a leaned out condition, most likely the carb. luckily, he says he thinks the cylinder will be fine, going to hone them both, and will be able to pick them up tommorow. and the cost is only going to be $10 apice, which i thought sounded pretty reasonable. so after, i tore into both carbs, soaked them, rinsed them, blew them out, dried them and reassembled. now they look great, but how do i make sure that im not running lean with them. also, there is a electrical harness on each one of the carbs with a male/female style prong for the 2 wires. i cant for the life of me determine what the hell these do. they look like they would attatch to some kind of wiring harness, but i cant find one. also, they just bolt on the carb with 2 screws apice, with nothing connected inside the carbs, which makes me think it might be some kind of heater or something. anyone have any ideas?? one more question, how can i figure out where a correct timing setting would be on my sled. it may be right, cause it seemed like it ran great when i first had it out, but im not sure. all in all, i think this motor had a fresh rebuild when i bought it, done incorrectly, and just kinda thrown together. i think i was kinda had on the sale. what do ya do??

99 ZR 600 efi, D&D exhaust, silencer, and chip, studded, kimpex shotgun, clutch kit, new skiis, custom paint, rebuilt + upgraded suspension, and only 1600 miles.

96 zr 580 swapped with a 700 motor, studded, 2000
style handle bars and 2" riser. dual carbide skiis.

please lord i need snow
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 09:05 PM
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I have heard that the carbs get heated so they dont get iced up, not 100% shure on this but a quick check in the service manual mentioned something about mountain sleds having altitude compensator's that are heated.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-11-2007, 09:23 PM Thread Starter
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sorry, i just looked it up, and it says its a magnetic switch, but i havent found out yet what it does.

99 ZR 600 efi, D&D exhaust, silencer, and chip, studded, kimpex shotgun, clutch kit, new skiis, custom paint, rebuilt + upgraded suspension, and only 1600 miles.

96 zr 580 swapped with a 700 motor, studded, 2000
style handle bars and 2" riser. dual carbide skiis.

please lord i need snow
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 11:26 AM
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Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) usually disconnected and rewired to override as they caused problems.

Supposed to detect a stuck slide and shut down the engine. Usually malfunctioned and disconnected.

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w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch & 01 ZR skid

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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-12-2007, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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oic, ive heard the name, but never put it together.

99 ZR 600 efi, D&D exhaust, silencer, and chip, studded, kimpex shotgun, clutch kit, new skiis, custom paint, rebuilt + upgraded suspension, and only 1600 miles.

96 zr 580 swapped with a 700 motor, studded, 2000
style handle bars and 2" riser. dual carbide skiis.

please lord i need snow
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