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10-16-2007, 10:34 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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In search of his village
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SEMN
Posts: 265
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carbide replacement, what ones? how easy?
ok...i am so full of questions this morning...and i'm not even done yet...
My next question is about Carbides. Both of my sleds do not have studded tracks, the carbides on the ski's are worn on the 2001 z440. the ZR600's look "ok". I do mostly trailing riding, and that means across cornfields and ditches here in SE MN. I've never had to replace carbides before so I'm a newb when it comes to this. What kind of carbides should i get and how hard are they to replace?
I've seen Woody's mentioned here, but i have no clue how big long whatever dementions i need...
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2001 AC ZR 600 efi
2001 AC Z 440
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10-16-2007, 11:17 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 1,637
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If you dont 'have a studded track, the recommendation is for no more than 4" of carbide. You may do just as well with hardened wearbars instead of carbide inserts, it would depend on the type of riding you do. The hardened ones are cheaper. Replacing wearbars is pretty easy, especially if the replacement bars are shaped the same. Sometimes you may have to drill a hole or elongate a hole in the ski to get the new ones to fit, but it's not difficult. It's easier if the ski is off the sled, too.
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Rebuilding the fleet!
2008 RMK 600 155", 2006 RMK 600 144", 98 Indy 440, 95 Prowler 550 2-up, 1990 Indy 650
RIP, destroyed by fire 1-22-2008 
04 RMK 800, 05 RMK 600, 02 RMK 800, 97 RMK 700
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10-16-2007, 12:39 PM
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#3 (permalink)
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Above The Arctic Circle
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Aklavik, NT Canada
Posts: 503
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Not hard at all as long as they fit right. The last ones I put on I had to bend alot to get them to fit, but they weren't made for my sled. I would suggest to leave the skis on, just one less thing to do. I either jack the front up or flip my snowmobile on it's side. I did a set yesterday and it took about 5 minutes.
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01 Polaris RMK 136"
- 01 600 VES Engine - Uni Air Filters
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- Custom Painted Hood - Powermadd Bar Riser
- EPI Pro Series Clutch Kit - Xtra-10 rear suspension
01 Yamaha VK III 540 ( The TANK) 
Out Of Commission Till Next Year
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10-16-2007, 01:14 PM
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#4 (permalink)
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In search of his village
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SEMN
Posts: 265
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well i went online to woody's site and all it told me for the 2001 ZR 600EFI was 6"-8" for track with no studs.
on the z440, it told me a little more info. dunno why, but it told me to either use 4" 60 degree (EAT3-9850) or 6" 60 degree (TAT4-9850).
So i have other option than carbides? sorry, I just have no clue on this stuff...
__________________
2001 AC ZR 600 efi
2001 AC Z 440
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10-16-2007, 01:38 PM
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#5 (permalink)
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SENIOR MEMBER
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: MI then IL now WA
Posts: 6,435
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you can try studboytraction.com
follow their application charts
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The Original Logo ->
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10-16-2007, 04:23 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 1,637
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There are TONS of options. You can go from straight wear bars with no carbide (cheapest, shortest lifespan) to wearbars with a bead of hardened weld on the bottom (cheap, wear better than the straight wear bars) to wearbars with carbide (more expensive, greatest wear). The amount of turning carbide on the wear bar will dictate how aggressive you turn. If you have a lot of studs, and no turning carbide, the back end will try to steer the front end. If you have 8" of turning carbide and no studs, the back end can't keep up with the front.
Then there are dual carbide runners (supposed to help reduce or eliminate darting) and wear bars with different shapes for different kinds of snow. What you buy really is dependant on the type of riding. Carbide in the deep powder does no good whatsoever. Ride a lot of busy trails? Perhaps a dually type to reduce darting. There are many options to fill your need.
The use of carbide in wear bars is simply to make them wear longer. It's a lot harder material than steel. On some runners you will have pads of carbide that are flat ahead of and behind the steering carbide, simply to keep the bar from wearing.
__________________
Rebuilding the fleet!
2008 RMK 600 155", 2006 RMK 600 144", 98 Indy 440, 95 Prowler 550 2-up, 1990 Indy 650
RIP, destroyed by fire 1-22-2008 
04 RMK 800, 05 RMK 600, 02 RMK 800, 97 RMK 700
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10-16-2007, 05:27 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Groton NY
Posts: 10,354
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If the track lugs are 3/4 to 1 inch, use the 6" bars.
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Old Cat Rider
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80 PANTERA 500 F/C w/ Comet 102 clutch
'90 Wildcat Project in progress.
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http://www.dcdrifters.net/
Senior Deacon; F&AM Lodge# 472
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10-17-2007, 03:48 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Sconnie
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Mount Horeb, Wisconsin
Posts: 445
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and the inch length means how long they are on your ski, right? or what exactly
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~If you dont think it's bad @zz, then whats the point?~
1990 Skidoo Formula MX 470
1986 Ford Ranger 2.9L 4x4
3"body lift
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35" by 12.5" Super Swampers on rims
dual custom exhaust
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10-17-2007, 04:14 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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King of the Universe
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rochester Hizzle, MI
Posts: 6,213
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by jKsled
and the inch length means how long they are on your ski, right? or what exactly
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Nope!! Inch length is how long the carbide insert (steering edge) is. You must order the proper model for your particular sled/ski. That way, all the holes will line up correctly (no drilling).
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2003 AC F5 (Jr's Dec 07 SOTM & 2008 SOTY)
2003 AC F7 EFI SP (April 06 SOTM)
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10-19-2007, 04:22 AM
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#10 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: MN
Posts: 1,530
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Where in MN are you? I am South of Kato by 30 mins.
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10-19-2007, 10:43 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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In search of his village
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SEMN
Posts: 265
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I live 15 miles south of Rochester. I'll be "close" to your area this weekend. Going camping and fishing in the Albert Lea area.
__________________
2001 AC ZR 600 efi
2001 AC Z 440
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10-23-2007, 08:12 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Reverend Dennis
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 452
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Just to add, if the ones on the sleds currently have worked well for you, the easiest would be to take one off and goto your local dealer and have them match it up with a new one. Then you can also see about differnt options.
To remove and replace, most are either 3 or 4 bolts thru the skis, If you look in your skis from the top you will see the bolts and nuts, usually around 4" apart. those are holding the wearbars/carbides on..
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10-23-2007, 09:54 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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1st Assistant Highjacker
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Stugeon Falls, Ontario
Posts: 1,160
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I just changed the carbides on my '96 EXT 580 and it was fun lol. I had to cut about an inch off of the runner and cut out part of the ski. After that the ski skin needed moding. It is suposed to be the right one for the sled but it wasnt, the curve of the bar was off. Moral... get the right one lol.
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10-24-2007, 08:49 AM
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#14 (permalink)
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In search of his village
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: SEMN
Posts: 265
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I grabbed one off ebay. supposed to be for my sled, we'll see.
I have no idea how these things handle...just bought them a few weeks ago. i have ridden them 10 feet so far off of the trailer and into the garage. I tel you what, then handle like crap on cement.
__________________
2001 AC ZR 600 efi
2001 AC Z 440
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10-25-2007, 08:28 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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1st Assistant Highjacker
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Stugeon Falls, Ontario
Posts: 1,160
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The ones i got where off ebay, they where suposed to fit but they didint very well, good luck!
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10-25-2007, 07:19 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: MN
Posts: 1,530
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Not made for cement!
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