ZRT broken mount/cause of power loss??? - Snowmobile Forum: Your #1 Snowmobile Forum

kingmort · 01-21-2004, 10:35 AM

While still searching for my low end power problems I found the left side rear mount bracket(on the body broken).I was examining the belt tension and found it out of spec.I had 1 1/2" and I think its supposed to be 1 1/8" to 1 1/4".That was with a brand new belt, so I was gonna shim the engine ahead to take up the slack.Thats when I found the mount broken.I'm gonna pull the engine and weld everything back in place, and shim it till I get proper tension.

Woiuld this have cause the engine to be boggy on the bottom end?

Anyway , I guess I'll know when I get er fixed.

shanek · 01-21-2004, 11:23 AM

It could be the problem, but it seems there would be power loss in the entire power band if it was just the clutch. shane

G-ForceJunkie · 01-21-2004, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by shanek
It could be the problem, but it seems there would be power loss in the entire power band if it was just the clutch.

agreed

zrtease · 01-21-2004, 05:29 PM

A broken mount will mess up your sled big time. When the sled is pushed hard it will pull the engine to one side, loose clutch effitientcy, and loss of power especially when you hammer it from a dead stop. Belt adjustment is done on the clutches not motor mounts. The shims between the front and rear adjust belt deflection. After you remove the engine make sure you get the clutches lined back up with the tool from arctic cat.

kingmort · 01-21-2004, 08:33 PM

shanek, I guess your right, and I believe I was losing power throughout the band, but it was definately more noticeable on takeoff and down low.

zrtease, the new belt seemed to ride high on the driven clutch, between about 1/16" and 1/8" ,and I believe the engine itself is pulled back from being run that way for a while.

Anyhow, I only have tension specs for 99's, so is the 1 1/8" - 1 1/4" right?

I will take it to the dealer for clutch alignment if this mount repair seems to do the trick.

zrtease, if everything is working right, what kind of rpm should it peak at on the tach?The way it is, its only hitting between 8000 and 8500, back when it worked good, I thought it was hitting 9000 pretty easy

course, I'm back to the waiting game, the bottom rad hose is almost chafed completely through, so I gotta get one before the engine goes back in.

zrtease · 01-22-2004, 09:12 PM

I didnt get what year your sled was? Most zerts run around 8500 though it depends on the tunning of the engine. Bone stock that number is close for all of them unless your motor has been built. Is your sled clutched or stock? that will make a differance. if its stock 500 rpm over is wasteing your power. black Magic makes a clutch kit that makes these things fly for $190.00. huge differance out of the hole. If the belt is still high in the driven take out one shim at atime between the sheeves until you get the desired measurement.

97 Zrt 800 · 01-23-2004, 02:20 PM

my sled is like that too. It seems to have a slight bog in the low end and then it just takes off. It seems to be a problem with most of them.

kingmort · 01-23-2004, 04:37 PM

Fixed the mount,,, fixed the prob.Acceleration comes on and keeps on coming, now.

ZRT800, the mount is a common prob on the 600's, I hear.Dunno about the 800, but I recommend you take a close look.I would think that the bigger motor would break 'em sooner

zrtease, I'm pullin' pretty well at 8500 on the money under hard acceleration.The port timing was advanced by about .060", and I would say someone instaled boyesen reeds(Cat are steel???+and these are the plastic , the retianers appear to have been trimmed, )So maybe I should try bringing RPM up a couple hundred??

Would clutch weights be the best way to do this???

zrtease · 01-23-2004, 07:18 PM

Glad to hear its going good. You can change the rpm in the weights but its a lot less money to buy a couple different shims for the driven clutch and you will have more room for rpm change when the conditions change like powder or hard pack. Start with the thinest shim you can get and work up. Most will bring rpm up 200 rpm at a time, easy to install even on the trail if needed.

kingmort · 01-23-2004, 09:06 PM

Ok,,,,but will shiming the spring raise the RPM throughout the whole shift pattern, or just engagement?

I already have a set of weights, they came with the sled.The guy I got it from said they made the clutch engage too high for him, but maybe they were originally installed to go with the mods.

I might get a new set of bushings for them and give them a try

Don't remember excactly but I think they're A53's