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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-26-2006, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Question 1994 Ext 580 Efi

I just bought the above sled and now I've got no spark...battery, brown and blue relays test good, but fuel pump doesnt come on either...I'm starting to think it might be a bad ecu...any suggestions on where to begin?...
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-26-2006, 10:47 PM
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on the front of the ecu there should be a tiny LED light that comes on with the ignition; next time you turn it on, look at the light; it will flash error codes if there is a problem... count the flashes and pauses and that may help guide you...

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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-27-2006, 06:21 AM Thread Starter
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THANK YOU for your prompt reply! The LED on the ECU doesnt appear to flash at all?! Any idea if these ECU's be bench tested or repaired?
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-27-2006, 08:36 AM
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hmm.. if the ecu is toast, you need to replace it. The ECU on my 95 is protected by a 3 amp fuse located in the fuse box just above the ECU, check that first. Then check all switches (ignition, Throttle Monitor, Emergency Shut-off, and Tether). The current passes through the fuse, then through the switches, then to the ECU. There are ECUs for sale from time to time on ebay, if not they are VERY expensive from AC. When you are looking for a new ECU, it has to have the same color dot on the EPROM chip as the injectors; in 95, there were red, yellow, and blue. Good luck!

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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-27-2006, 02:15 PM
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fuel injection sleds seem to always have a hard time keeping the batterys charged... convert it to carbs! thats what i did

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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-27-2006, 07:54 PM
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The battery-type EFI does require a good battery, fully charged, to run dependably. But you NEVER have to mess with the jets And that "2-pulls and it's running" is kind of nice as well...

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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-29-2006, 02:29 AM
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First make sure that the battery is good. It can go dead from just sitting over the summer if you do not have a battery tender or charge it occasionally.
You can ignore Crazy on the "can't keep the battery charged" coment. If ther is a problem charging the battery, it is usually one of two things; bad regulator or a blown fuse from the engine to the regulator. (speaking from experience here)

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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-23-2009, 06:13 PM
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580 ext efi.

im thinking of converting this sled to carbs, anybody know what carbs i would use to replace the injectors?..it is a great running sled........when it runs.what wires i would keep, and what part of the eletrical system i could eliminate??
thanks
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-02-2011, 08:06 PM
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the fuel pump in my 1994 ext 580 efi keeps running when the key and kill switch is off any ideas?
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-02-2011, 08:29 PM
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It is likely just a simple fuse! NEVER go back to carbs! The pumprunning is likely a stuck relay or ign switch!
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post #11 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-02-2011, 09:55 PM
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Check the small red wire that attaches to the battery from the regulator, there is an inline fuse ore a fuseable link that can be replaced.

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post #12 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011, 06:47 AM
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Could be a 5 amp fuse above the ecu?
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post #13 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-03-2011, 07:43 PM
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i checked the fuse and replaced it and it worked thanks guy but another question im not getting any spark now and when i turn the kill switch off i all of a sudden have park also i replace the engine on it same year but it was carbureted would that have anything to do with it??/
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post #14 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 06:40 AM
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You may have a bad switch.
At least you know it will run now, I would replace that switch.

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post #15 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-04-2011, 07:14 AM
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Did you use the stator and flywheel off of the EFI? THEY ARE DIFFERENT!
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post #16 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-10-2011, 08:33 PM
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got that sorted had to use stator off of efi engine but now had it running and was adjusting to oil pump settings and now the fuel pump doesnt run when i turn the key but when i unplug the wire connectors and then plug then in it works for a bit even when the key and kill switch are off but a minute before that happened everything was working correctly just running a bit rich
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post #17 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 07:55 AM
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FLYWHEEL? The EFI has 6 magnets the carb only 4!
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post #18 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 11:05 AM
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yeah i changed the fly wheel when the stator was replaced... do u think it could possibly be the ignition switch?
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post #19 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 11:45 AM
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What did you do for wiring harness?. EFI and carbed are usually different from the stator on.

What i would do now is go through the TSS and start bypassing things to eliminate the Key switch and all of that. Sounds like a bad wiring issue.

You should be able to make a jumper and Systematically eliminate every component. Go into the sticky section at the top Blaine1 has a great video on this.

It seems that you used all the correct EFI parts so the compatibility should work. The only thing compatible with carbs is the lower case, crank, rods, pistons and heads. most every other part is different between the 2. I cant believe you swapped that whole motor Good for you! keep at it

x2 NEVER go back to carbs! its even harder than just figuring your efi issues out.
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post #20 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-11-2011, 08:42 PM
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well i had an efi sled and ceased the engine and found a complete sled bad condition for 200 bucks so bought it and swap just the engine over to my efi sled same where and everything it was weird though the pump works when i disconnect the battry then reconnect it it works right then with the key and kill switch off but then it wont work after that

it wouldnt have been done if it wasnt for the advice and tip i got from everyone on here wish people were closer so they could see what the machine was doing in person instead of through words
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