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10-14-2006, 04:23 PM
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#1 (permalink)
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super duper member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: western ny
Posts: 1,190
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580 problems
well, ill start off by sayin long time no see! some of u may remember me others probably not. i havent posted here in god knows how long, but it snowed yesterday and it totally got my blood flowing. i had a ton of problems with my 580 last season and now im debating to try the last few things i havent tried to fix it or sell it. it bogs a ton from idle when u punch it. compression is good, base gasket is good, carbs clean and synced, all new electronics. i measured the belt and didnt seem to worn, but i never replaced it. the primary is a comet and hasnt been rebuilt in god knows how long. do any of u guys think a clutch rebuild is needed? or maybe a new belt? im gonna try premixing too just to eliminate it. sorry for the long post, and all opinons are welcomed!
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10-14-2006, 04:35 PM
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#2 (permalink)
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Groton NY
Posts: 10,205
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make sure that both clutches are cleaned and check that you do not have any broken or loosed moter mounts.
__________________
Old Cat Rider
w/ Comet 108 Pro-4 clutch
80 PANTERA 500 F/C w/ Comet 102 clutch
'90 Wildcat Project in progress.
Trail Boss; Dryden to Summerhill trail.
http://www.dcdrifters.net/
Senior Deacon; F&AM Lodge# 472
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10-15-2006, 02:53 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 1,577
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If it's a Comet clutch with more than 1500 miles on it, it probably needs to be rebuilt. Check the rollers and flyweights; if they wear abnormally, the clutch may bind and bog big time. Remove the spring and check movement on the movable sheave; binding indicates a bushing that is heading south. I got rid of the 6-post Comets and replaced 'em with 9 post AC clutches, they are a lot more durable.
Also, make another pass at the pilot jet and pilot jet passages, my 580 was having bogging problems big time and finally went away when i ran a monofilament fishing line through the passages and the jets. (that was after disassembly twice for cleaning). It runs great now, no hesitation at all.
__________________
Rebuilding the fleet!
2008 RMK 600 155", 2006 RMK 600 144", 98 Indy 440, 95 Prowler 550 2-up, 1990 Indy 650
RIP, destroyed by fire 1-22-2008 
04 RMK 800, 05 RMK 600, 02 RMK 800, 97 RMK 700
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10-15-2006, 10:12 AM
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#4 (permalink)
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Try to catch my CAT
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SLIPPERY ROCK,PA
Posts: 2,293
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I've had mice in my airbox of our '94 jag before. May want to check that also.
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10-15-2006, 11:14 AM
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#5 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dryden,Ontario
Posts: 86
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i know that when i baught my 95 ZR.. the pervous owner rebuilt the clutch.. but i have noo ideaa
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10-15-2006, 05:51 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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vroom vroom
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Princeton, MA
Posts: 477
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fishing line, wow never heard on that one. , thats gotta be the best idea ever, idk how u know all this stuff BC_Dan but keep it coming!
im letting my carbs sleep a week in a gas bath to clean them out. definatly do what BC_Dan said, sometimes crud will build up in there and air wont push it out.
i would sell it if the clutch is going. just make sure u tell them and go get urself a bigger badder sled
__________________
LOUD PIPES LOSE TRAILS!
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10-15-2006, 06:13 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: oregon
Posts: 1,577
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Gas works ok, but the specific carb cleaner in the gallon can from an auto parts store is absolutely deadly on varnish. It will get into all the nooks and crannys and clean 'em up spotless clean. It works a LOT better than the aerosol cleaner in a can.. I use both, the aerosol spray on carbs that just need touched up, and the can for the ones that have been sitting a LONG time.. or are being a pain in the bottom! The gallon can is re-usable.. and the stuff lasts a LONG time. My can is 4 years old, and I have cleaned a LOT of carbs in it... it's still working fine. It's definitely worth a shot 
__________________
Rebuilding the fleet!
2008 RMK 600 155", 2006 RMK 600 144", 98 Indy 440, 95 Prowler 550 2-up, 1990 Indy 650
RIP, destroyed by fire 1-22-2008 
04 RMK 800, 05 RMK 600, 02 RMK 800, 97 RMK 700
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10-15-2006, 06:21 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Dryden,Ontario
Posts: 86
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heyy 94 zr 580.. my sledd looked pretty much like yours:P haha
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10-17-2006, 09:00 PM
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#9 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 43
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similar problem
my zr 580 is doing the exact same thing. I've replaced all the things u have mentioned. I am now splitting the crankcase to see if I have a problem down there. I think the sled is getting to much oil somehow. Neways I'll tell you my findings and would you please tell me wut u find if u solve this problem! Thanks
__________________
Live fast, die young
---------------
94 zr 580
88 Ford Mustang
80 Honda CX 500
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10-18-2006, 04:03 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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super duper member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: western ny
Posts: 1,190
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before u split the cases make sure your one into 3 oil, throttle cable isnt frayed. mine was and it was getting full oil all the time. that helped but didnt cure the problem. my neighbor who had the same sled when it was new said they actually recalled the cables.
i think im gonna pull my primary off and see if it needs a rebuild. does anyone know how to tell if a clutch needs rebuilding??
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10-18-2006, 04:53 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Canora Saskatchewan
Posts: 59
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I remember a reoccurring problem on a friend of mine's ZR. The weight bushings would either wear, or simply crumble causing side play in them and eventually wearing into the post prohibiting the clutch from closing properly or at all and causing, of course, a nasty bog. This was on an AC clutch. But that machine in particular was famous for premature clutch wear period.
__________________
2007 Yamaha Apex ER
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10-19-2006, 02:57 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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super duper member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: western ny
Posts: 1,190
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thanks everyone, im gonna pull off the clutch and take a look. ill let ya all know what i find.
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10-19-2006, 03:22 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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RIDE HARD OR GO HOME!
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 152
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Like RJ said about the motor mounts.Also check the engine torque stop.You also may want to check the side clearance between the belt and the primary clutch. I think it should be around 0.10.
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10-20-2006, 04:25 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Winnipeg,Manitoba
Posts: 37
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I had the same on my EXT 580 turns out to be a common problem with the throtle sensor swith. Not sure exactly what it's called. Anyways it is a mirco swith located in the thumb lever (thats why it has that play in it befor it moves the cable) this stupid switch is connected to wires that go to the carb and sence if it is stuck open. if it is it kills or boggs the motor. I disconnected mine and just rerouted the circuit to bypass the system. some say you can just unplug the wires that didn't work for me. also I took apart and cleaned that little switch (it comes apart but be carfull because there is a little spring in it). that worked once this was done it got rid of my problem totaly for a while but it came back near the end of last season this year I am removing the stupid safety circuit and hoping my carbs don't freeze open. If they do I still have a kill switch, key, and if all else fails the nearest tree should work.
Have fun
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10-20-2006, 04:43 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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super duper member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: western ny
Posts: 1,190
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i didnt unplug my throttle safety switch, but i did replace the two plastic pieces that go on the throttle for the swithc. i dont think thats the problem, but ill bypass it any way.
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