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2004 T660 N/A No Start

9K views 18 replies 5 participants last post by  kccats 
#1 ·
Hi all!

I've been out of the game for a bit but here goes;

I got a super deal on a 2004 T660(non turbo) Touring 4 stroke.

The good is that it's in very good cosmetic shape. No rips in the seat and the PO who was a "mature" adult took good care of it. Last season the clutch went out so he parked it and bought a brand new sled. He went out a few weeks ago to start this one and it was dead. He tried to jump the battery but nothing. He's not a mechanic so he sold it to me for practically nothing...so here's what I know so far.

I bought a new battery, charged it and installed it. I unhooked the ECU and fuse block and checked all fuses, relays and cleaned any of the wire harness connections I could get at. I have no power to the dash and it doesn't go into it's normal pre-start routine. It does prime the cylinders though. I actually had it running on ether for a few seconds so it's getting spark. If I prime it a few times it'll also sustain a little combustion on what little fuel is introduced into the cylinders.

I'm stumped. He stored it inside and never abused it so I'm not worried about that. All of the wiring looks good. No breaks that I can find.

Now, IF the ECU is bad, would I get even the little bit of priming action? I really don't know what else it could be at this point.

When I operate the kill switch I also hear the priming when the key is in the "Run" position.

Thanks in advance for any replies.
 
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#2 ·
When you turn the key on, do you get any indication from the ECU that it is getting power?
You should see some sort of blink from a panel light that is the self diagnostic start up indicator.
If you do not then it is likely that a fuse link in the harness is blown and the ECU is not getting power at all.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the responses...good to get "back in the game"!

If I'm reading the schematic correctly it appears that there should be two ground wires hooked to the battery? I have only one.

I get nothing from the dash. No lights, no sound...dead as the proverbial doornail. The ONLY sound I get when the key is turned to the "Run" position is from the little bit of fuel being primed into the cylinder. The brake lights, headlights, warmers...everything D-E-A-D.

I've been thinking all along that there's a fuseable link or a missing/bad/broken ground...but I can't seem to find anything. Are there any inline fuses which I can look for?

I CAN turn the starter over...it spins up very quickly and the battery is full of juice but something's still not right.

Thanks again for all the suggestions and help. After I figure out the power I think it'll be a nice running sled. I've already pulled the secondary clutch which needs new roller buttons...but that's pretty straight forward so I'm not concerned about that yet.
 
#8 ·
*Solved*

You ever have one of those "House"(from the TV series)moments when all of the sudden things which have made no sense all of the sudden do? Yeah...that just happened.

So...after all the troubleshooting and things just not adding up, I said I'll just go back to square 1 and think about all of this. I was up looking through schematics and all of the sudden there it was. the missing wire.

So, he had the battery hooked up wrong and I followed his lead. Yeah. When it was mentioned that there are two wires on the (+) side that's what I saw. Two wires. Also, one wire on the (-) which made sense to me. BUT in reality someone spliced the two (+) wires TOGETHER and used a heavier spade to carry the current. They were wrapped together as ONE WIRE. THEN, the PO took what I know now as the 2nd ground wire and hooked THAT to the (+) so "two" wires were indeed showing.

I simply removed the 2nd wire, touched it to the (-) and I got all sorts of "action", lights etc... Hit the key and "VROOM" Purrs like a kitten...or Cat...whatever. Fired right up and everything works perfectly...except for the clutch which I already removed and will fix.

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions. I spent $300 on a "Dead" sled gamble and now have a $2k well running snowmobile.
 
#12 ·
The PO loved the sled. He and his wife have a cabin up near mine in northern Wisconsin. They mostly stayed on the trails up there and the U-P...said it rode like a Caddy. Never felt a bump even with two people on it. It has a lot of suspension travel so it's "soft". Another friend said that the 660 4 stroke is comparable to a 500 two stroke in performance. He said he'll never go back to a two stroke as he's now "spoiled" by the ease of ownership. Change the oil once a year, fill it up and drive. It runs iridium plugs so they'll last a LONG time in that engine. Also, the PO stated he usually got around 15MPG so the 16.5 gallon tank will get you a long way down the trail.

I'll give a first hand account when I get the clutch...and some snow!
 

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#15 · (Edited)
Yeah, when on saw it on CL, the first thing I noticed was how it looked. You can usually tell about how a machine has been cared for mechanically by simply seeing if the PO paid attention to the outside. Not only sleds...but cars/trucks/aircraft and almost anything else which has an engine.

I knew that so long as the lump wasn't seized...I'd probably be able to work out the issue.

So all in all after the new clutch and battery...I've got $500 into it in total. Don't know for sure what they go for, but I'm guessing about $2k or so...not that I plan on selling it. I talked to the dealer where the PO had it serviced and 300mi ago they had just done all of the jack shaft bearings, oil change, chain case service and the guy knew the owners. Said they had it in at every "scheduled" maintenance interval.
 
#18 ·
The clutch I have needs to have the springs swapped out. The one I got has the BLUE and I need to get the RED/WHITE (OEM) into it. How difficult is it to do without a special jig??
 
#19 ·
The springs can be changed with just removing the primary cover.
I get 3 1/4-20 bolts that are an inch longer than the stock cover bolts (like 3 1/2"?)
Then remove three opposite bolts put the longer ones in then remove the rest!
This will let off the spring tension, then remove the others, replace the same way!
The secondary, just remove the center bolt and remove and set it on a roll of duct tape!
 
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