The rear shock on the 1996 Jag needs replacing, so I pulled the skid out today. If you remember, I really had to wrestle the skid out of the 96 Puma two up. This one, I had out in about 40 minutes. No spinning bolts, no laying the sled on it's side....maybe it's because it's the second time I've done this.
Not only is the shock cooked, but the upper mount has seen better days. I'm most likely going with a Firecat shock like I have i the Puma. Figure I'll probably put in a set of new sliders on the skid since I have it out.
What's the easiest way to remove the upper bogie wheels(the ones near the coil springs)? The manual references a special puller. Anything that'll work that's automotive related?
I used my ATV Jack to lift up the nose, wood to hold up the rear by the grab bar. I found it easier to slide the front of the skid out towards the brake side of the sled, and pull the rear put towards the throttle side.
I used a ratchet strap to compress the skid a bit. That helped with removal.
You can remove the wheel from the bearing and then a 3 arm bearing puller will take it right off.
There will be a retainer ring on the inside of the wheel that you can see after you remover the plastic bearing cover.
Snap ring pliers required to get it out.
Yep and bout the only thing I would add is some PB Blaster.
But I wouldn't hold the rear end up with a piece of wood! You would be better off with a strap to a rafter?
RJ,
That's what I was forgetting! The plastic bearing cover. No wonder I wasn't able to see a snap ring in there. Amazingly, I was able to get those lock collars off without an issue. Thought the small allen heads would have been seized.
KC,
It's a pretty beefy piece of lumber...4"x6" pressure treated. I keep it stored in the shed too. I just have to make sure I don't rock the sled much when I'm working on it. My shed rafters aren't strong enough to support anything from them.
Where do you guys get your bearings from? Mfg supply? Napa? Thoughts on re-greasing new sealed bearings? I've found bearings to be undergreased or filled with cheap grease at the factory. I'd like to add something better; a good low temp grease that'll hold up.
I've used a lot of bearings from VXB over the years, especially in rear skids. They are fairly inexpensive and seem to hold up well in the suspension. I use OEM bearings for the jackshaft and chaincase, though. As difficult as those are to access, I don't go inexpensive there.
Looks like Nachi Bearings, which is fine. I personally would not use them in the chain case or drive bearings, but wheels should be fine. The risk is minimal.
Don't get me wrong, I use the inexpensive bearings quite a bit. However, after having one go out on a drive shaft, it took out most of the chain case. 2 gears, the chain tensioner, the outer case/cover and twisted the drive shaft. No more cheap stuff for those critical parts.
On the bogies and wheels, no problem, the worse thing that can happen is you ruin a wheel. If you see a bearing has locked up the wheel, you can always just take the wheel off and get home anyway. Less stress on the wheels too. So chances are the bearings will last a long time anyway.
A season or 2?
I have a buddy that will take the seal off the bearing and soak them in engine oil and put them back on!
I get my bearings in a sleeve of 10 at Hay Days for $10 so I just pitch them!
The drive shaft bearings I get from my supplier and are about $4 ea.
But they are just std farmer bearings, 1X2" radial with a lock collar.
Well I go about 1000, but then probable spread over 4 machines?
Not saying they only last that long, I go threw the skid every preseason and pitch the bad ones, or replace the plastic bushings?
Took a closer look at the skid today. How do the top idler wheels come off? I was able to get the lock collar off. But I don't see any snap ring in there. The manual shows a special puller. Have to imagine there's an alternative?
Thanks KC. I'll look next time I'm up there. I don't recall seeing any snaprings...but I'll take a closer look. The manual just shows using a puller to pull the wheels off; no reference to the snaprings.
The snap ring would hold the bearing into the wheel itself. Once the snap ring is of, just tap the wheel off of the bearing using a hammer.
Then the bearing will walk off with the puller.
When you put it back make sure which way the snap ring is for future removal!
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