Snowmobile Forum banner

Z370 No spark.

10K views 23 replies 5 participants last post by  TMME 
#1 ·
My 2000 Z370 has no spark and I'm looking for some ideas on how and what to test.
Here's what I can tell you so far... Sled was running well when put into storage a year ago but now has no spark. I eliminated the kill switch and TSS by unplugging it, no change. I unplugged the main connector coming out of the motor and still no spark. It seems something went bad just sitting during storage. Any ideas on a logical place to start with diagnosis?

Thanks.
 
#2 ·
Look for chewed wires?
Is the three wire plug fitted tightly together?
Next would be to do the tests for the stator as shown in the stickies on the section main page.
 
#3 ·
Two groups of wires coming out of the motor. One has 3 wires, the other should have 4.

Red/Wht = Charge
Blk/Red = Trigger
Blk/Wht = Ground

VLT = kill (grounded it kills the spark).

Disconnect the VLT, but not the others. That disconnects all the TSS, Kill, ignition switches. VLT = Velvet or Purple. You should be able to disconnect it separately from the others near the CDI unit

If you start it with this disconnected, your safest way to stop the engine is to pull the choke out.


You can put an AC meter on the Charge and Trigger and measure the voltages coming out. Red/WHT to ground should read between 14 and 36 volts AC. Same with BLK/RED to ground. (wide range is because it may not read more than 14-18 volts when you are just pulling the cord.

If you do, then you need to test the CDI unit voltages. On the WHT/BLU and BLK/WHT you should get around the same voltage as above.

The plug that has 4 wires, 2 are the lighting circuits (yellow), I believe the other two are ground and ignition switch (Vlt/Blk)
 
#21 ·
Two groups of wires coming out of the motor. One has 3 wires, the other should have 4.

Red/Wht = Charge
Blk/Red = Trigger
Blk/Wht = Ground

VLT = kill (grounded it kills the spark).

Disconnect the VLT, but not the others. That disconnects all the TSS, Kill, ignition switches. VLT = Velvet or Purple. You should be able to disconnect it separately from the others near the CDI unit

If you start it with this disconnected, your safest way to stop the engine is to pull the choke out.


You can put an AC meter on the Charge and Trigger and measure the voltages coming out. Red/WHT to ground should read between 14 and 36 volts AC. Same with BLK/RED to ground. (wide range is because it may not read more than 14-18 volts when you are just pulling the cord.

If you do, then you need to test the CDI unit voltages. On the WHT/BLU and BLK/WHT you should get around the same voltage as above.

The plug that has 4 wires, 2 are the lighting circuits (yellow), I believe the other two are ground and ignition switch (Vlt/Blk)
 
#4 · (Edited)
Thanks for the replies, given the time of year, I wasn't sure I'd get any.
All connectors are properly plugged together and no sign of chewed wires. Unplugged the single purple wire coming out of the motor and still no spark. Tested output voltage at red/black wire and got a reading of 35 vac (cranking with starter motor, plugs out). Ran the same test with red/white and got a reading of less than 2 vac.
Given the low voltage on red/white, what would be the next diagnostic step?
 
#5 ·
disconnect the 3 prong connector and measure the resistance between the RED/WHT and BLK/WHT.

Should be around 15-18 ohms.

Should be around 160 ohms between BLK/RED to BLK/WHT wires.

For grins, measure the resistance between the RED/WHT and BLK/RED and let me know what it is.


Side note:

The way the diagram show it, I would guess that RED/WHT to ground would be the full 177 ohms. And the RED/WHY to BLK/RED would read 17 ohms.

BLK/WHT = Ground, so you should be able to measure between BLK/WHY and the frame or engine and get zero ohms.
 
#6 ·
ps. The 2V AC on the charge or Pulse would be to low. On the pulse it can be as low as 4.5 volts, but it really typically is much higher.
 
#8 ·
On the stator side?

Very strange. Might just pull the mag off and see what it looks like in there. Not very difficult to do.
 
#9 ·
Yes, on the stator side.
Time to tear into it and see what's going on. I'll keep you posted.
 
#10 ·
Yes, on the stator side.
Time to tear into it and see what's going on. I'll keep you posted.
 
#12 ·
On the 4 pin plug, I jumped the brown to the purple/black and still no go. I pulled the flywheel off and found 2 loose magnets so that's at least part of the problem but somehow I dont think it explains the open readings when I tested resistance on the various wires.
 
#14 ·
The magnets are fully intact and undamaged, the glue just let go. I saw no evidence of broken or chafed wires, I'll see if I can post some pictures tonight. at this point I'm certainthat I need a new stator but I was wondering if I could have my magnets re-glued?
 
#16 ·
Probably stronger than the original
 
#17 ·
Looks like you can get the pickup coil separately which should make the fix a little cheaper. Anybody know if the pickup coil can be rebuilt?
 
#18 ·
You can get stators re-wound, not sure about a pickup coil.

I'm seeing $150 for just the charge/pickup coils and $199 for the whole stator plate with Accessory/charge/pickup coils on it.

This guy does Arctic Cats:

Welcome to Stator Kev's - Home

You might email him for an actual quote. The prices he has on the website seem to be for the larger ones.
 
#19 ·
Thanks.
Kev rebuilt my ZL 500 Stator and did a great job, he even personally delivered it to my workplace! Just curious, where did you see a complete assy. for $199?
 
#20 ·
I just did a quick search on eBay. "Arctic Cat Stator 370"
 
#23 ·
Odd that it doesn't matter which plug wire is plugged in. My next reaction would be fuel issue. Fuel not getting to that cylinder.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top