What's the best way to do this? The manual says to apply 20lbs of pressure to check the sag.
How do you guys do this if you don't have a lift? I can get the rear end of the sled off the ground a few inches using a block of wood. However, I don't have a way to raise it level a foot or two off the ground.
You really only want the track to be tight enough so it doesn't ratchet or slip the drivers!
I use a tie down strap to the ceiling to raise the back end up!
If you raise it up with the block of wood, is there any daylight between the hyfax and the track?
You will actually get better performance with the track looser than that.
I do all mine with a 10 lb weight placed in the center of the track and adjust tension til the drive lugs are just flush with the bottom of the slides.
You do not need to raise the rear that much, just enough to have the entire track clear of the ground.
Track alignment is more important even than track tension.
Thanks guys! Here's my situation: The shed is in Vermont is a post and beam shed. There's no way to raise it up via the ceiling due to the center supports. So I used a piece of 4x6 I have from another project. I'll let you know how high I can get the rear off the ground. I know I can at least get the entire track off the ground. I've used this setup before and have been able to engage the clutch and spin the track. So with that setup, I'll need the best way to center the track and set the tension.
That should work fine. I use a rear bumper lift on mine, you only have to get the track off the ground 2-3 inches to set the track. I put the weight on the track about in the middle (Polaris has specs, but what do they know . ) After I have measured the track deflection, I rotate the track, either by hand or by running the engine to spin it a few revolutions. Make sure to take out the weight
Then I take a look at the rear of the rails through the track windows and see if they are equal. If not, adjust the rear axle until they are. That is all done without lifting more than a few inches off the ground.
2007 Dragon RMK 700 155", 2008 RMK 600 155", 95 Prowler 550 2-up, Really OLD AC Cheetah
I fired up the Puma today for the first time in awhile and had the track lifted to make sure things are OK after reinstalling the skid with the new mounting points, new shock and hyfaxes. It spun fine thankfully.
I think I'll give RJ's 10lb weight method a go and see how it works.
I need to adjust the tension on the Jag as well...
I bought the rear lift kit for $40. A stand with a power arm on it. Lifts and holds track high enough to spin and room to spar. also bought the tension tool, worth while investment. Don't forget your track warms up under use. Your supposed to ride her for 20 minutes and check tension . Pre set ups are for the side to side. I have an issue there. My sled has inner and outer lugs with not to much side to side adjustment . The clips look even, but the tunnel is off 1/4 inch. tried to change gap with not to much success . After adding a second limiter strap she hangs even and readings for tension are the same. Guess I'll find out the rest on first high speed ride. Forgot to say that the sled has a Rev XS platform.
Last edited by mustangmarc4156; 12-14-2015 at 12:09 PM.
Reason: adding specs
Some guys run their track just tight enough that the track doesn't ratchet under hard acceleration. That gives you the least amount of friction. Other guys say that the track will billow because of centrifugal force, which can cause contact with the tunnel (especially bad if you have studs) and can become inefficient because of aerodynamic drag. I think there's a place between those two that's the sweet spot. You can use the manufacturer's guide as a starting point. Then test to see what works best for your setup.
Here's a link to the stand that I use. I have had it for a few years, it's not as effective on the long tracks; I have to place the stand on blocks to reach the rear bumper. I like the shield. If you have something in the track and spin it, it can come out with a pretty good velocity. Hitting the guard on the stand is much preferred to hitting a person or breaking something in the shop...